Daedalus-Z

Hmm I do actually need an oil pump as well! it was more the shaft I was asking about, since I've got the non-turbo spade-type shaft and I need to use an optical distributor for the ECU I was planning to use I'll PM you

Hi Guys, Looking for one of the infamously hard to find oil pump drive shafts from the optical L28ET distributors. Looks like the second one in this thread (http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=4470.0).

Thanks mate! Might be interested in those CV shafts too. Just need to finish doing some reading on them.

Interested if it's a 3.9!

Hi All. Getting a bit tired of my too-tall R200 and looking for something a bit lower. If anyone happens to have a R200 3.9 or 4.1 sitting around I'd be happy to take it off their hands for a suitable price! Would be going into a 260. Thanks.

I might be interested depending on the price, head and block type

Hey Dennis, regarding your comment about the Tacho, you should be right even if the tacho is stuffed. There's a loop of wire running through the back of the tacho that does indeed need to be connected for the ignition to work, but even if the tacho itself is buggered the loop should still be fine (it's literally just a few turns of wire). My only comment on ignition would be, make sure your plugs aren't too cold. I had issues with getting my 260 started at first, one of which was the plugs CONSTANTLY fouling from the slightly stuffed carbies. Hotter plugs solved this and gave me enough actual run-time to get the thing into some semblance of a tune. If you're using round-tops (assume you are as it's a 240!) it's not very hard to remove the float chamber lids and have a look inside. What might also be useful is checking the float level. There are plenty of instructions floating around (http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageCarburation.htm for one) for doing it in various different ways, but basically you want to take off the top of the carby with the piston in it and have a look down the top to see where the fuel sits when you crank it. It shouldn't need to be perfect to get the car to start with if there's no fuel or fuel is pouring out into the carby body, then you might need to adjust the float level. The carbies are quite simple, if you're careful to not lose anything you shouldn't have any trouble disassembling them to clean and inspect.

If it's running on 4 cylinders and backfiring, I'd agree it's probably the ignition to those cylinders rather than the injection setup. Plugs, leads, cap, rotor etc. The EFI on the 280 is damn close to being an electronic carby so it *should* work with the points dizzy! Shouldn't affect the missing, but if it's still rough afterwards make sure you're running resistor type plugs. Not sure how sensitive the old EFI setup is to interference, but in theory you should use the 'R' type plugs with injection setups. *shrug* When in doubt a new set of plugs rules out one more thing

i had the same issue recently when I (apparently foolishly) used the carrier from the new gearbox instead of the old one. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but as a bit of a bodge to get the clutch to engage correctly with the shorter carrier I just made a longer push-rod for the clutch slave. Possibly not a great long term solution for the clutch, but mine was stuffed anyway, I just wanted to test the box That and I didn't fancy spending another hour doing gearbox-pushups!

Radiator Cap too! I think we missed that one! Dodgy cap will stop the system from pressurising properly so could cause the coolant to prematurely boil. Plus they are cheap and just about the easiest thing to replace on the whole car (provided it's not actually overheating and spitting boiling liquid at the time). Correct me if I'm wrong there, that's just what my limited understanding suggests!

+1 to Thermostat. Assume when you say 'overheating' it's the gauge reading high? Check the radiator/hose and make sure it's actually getting hot (water is flowing past the thermostat). It's such a cheap item and so easy to replace you might as well!

Another +1 for Pertronix unit. Works a treat. Not long ago you could pick them up on evil-bay for a pretty decent price (what with the dollar being the way it is).

Try hotter plugs! I found the BP6ES' would foul up really quickly for me (didn't help that the carbs where a bit buggered and poorly tuned too), but the 5's stood up FAR better. That's using a pertronix igniter on an L26. The plugs were quite new so it was one of the last things I tried to fix the missing and rough running... but given the price of plugs, it's easier to try a swap early on than it is to say, try a different set of carbies

Hmm as it turns out Yes: it is possible (though incredibly difficult) to mount it the other way around. The diff was in the stock location as far as I can tell, though as a result of my odd mounting it's now under a fair amount of tension pushing it towards the front. I *may* be able to be left like this, but TBH I think I'd rather not risk it Thanks heaps for that.

Hi Guys, Bit of an odd question, I went to replace the bushings for the mustache bar in the 260 yesterday and noticed that the bar was actually mounted differently to the way the manuals suggest it should be, the 'curls' in the bar that hold the bushing faced forwards instead of backwards. I've actually managed to mount it the other way... but the amount of forced required to get everything into position afterwards was a little worrying. Based on the shape of the back diff cover I think it's an R200, should the mustache bar in fact be mounted the way it was originally?