Jump to content

adam

Members
  • Content Count

    235
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About adam

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/27/1989

member details

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Bought them second hand locally. Would go for the Brides if I were to do it again.
  2. Hi all, As title suggests, I have a full CAMS approved and registered bolt in roll cage to suit a 240z/260z available. Spur of the moment purchase and come to the realisation that I don't need a cage in my street car! Mock up photos attached for your perusal. Fit to body is amazing for a bolt in item. Located Melbourne South east and due to size, pickup only. Just looking at recouping funds spent. I'm after $1200. Thanks,
  3. Hi all, Chasing a 260z, 280z or a 280zx (?) tachometer for use in my 240z to remove the induction loop. Must be in working condition. I am located in Melbourne and happy to pay for postage should you wish to post. Thanks,
  4. I believe the plots on my blog are all out of date. I've since tinkered with the jets some more and AFRs in top end are at 12 -12.5 now (from memory) which shouldn't be far off the mark. Believed I could do with one step up in air jet but wouldn't have thought it'll give that flat feeling Gav's also referred to.
  5. Yep, 34mm is still accurate. I've done a heap of reading and experiences of hitting a wall and just making noise from 5krpm isn't unusual it seems. I will give the cam upgrade a go, it will eventually happen anyway and if that doesn't improve it, I'll definitely go see a pro. Loving the car though, if only we could go for a drive!
  6. Just wanted to report back because of iso boredom. Ended up getting the spare motor built, standard crank, aftermarket H beam rods, 1mm oversized dished pistons and your usual ARP bolts, fresh seals, etc. Got machine work done, bearings to suit from machine shop so it was just a matter of slapping it all together at home. Was going to go flat top pistons but supply and concerns around detonation with stock cams, i decided it wasn't worth the effort. Before Victoria/Melbourne went into our first lockdown, I managed to get the motor finished and installed. Did a few drives to run the m
  7. Awesome! So no matter what route I go with the rebuild, it should be a huge difference. I actually didn't think the power was all that bad power wise; good to know there should be a bit more in it! Will definitely try and strive for Lurch's build on that customer's car minus head work I think at this stage.
  8. Thanks, Bonkers, that's the kind of response I was expecting.. No intentions on doing a motor swap at all. I have a spare L28 here that's stripped and ready to go in for a rebuild but was on the fence about going that little more or a stock standard build. As mentioned, completely understand that everyone's responses will be different but I was hoping to create conversation. Was actually expecting someone to say, 'dont even waste your time on small/minor modifications, go hard or do nothing at all'. And Cracker, already dyno'd current motor. Would be nice to compare before and a
  9. Apologies, quite evident that I didn't elaborate enough. The zed I have wasn't built to go fast, it's predominately a weekend twisties car. It has plenty of go at the moment to be fun. Although it has plenty of go, it's at the point where, 'it could do with a freshener'. By that, it's losing a bit of oil in it's usual places and blows some smoke (could be from running a tad rich also). I have another car which is tracked and is the 'go fast car' so I don't necessarily need another. But in saying that, if I were to go and build a motor, those that have spent the little extra coin
  10. Hi all, Thought I'd be a little old fashioned and use forums instead of modern age Facebook social media. Those of you who have rebuilt your L series motors, whether it be L24, 26 or the L28, has it been worth the effort? Let's be honest, in this day and age, you can buy much quicker cars and motors. I'm currently running a stock L28 with triple carbs and a full exhaust, it does the job and love the fact I can squirt it around town without breaking speeding fine records. It's a little tired, chewing through oil, leaking a bit here and there. Was thinking of a standard
  11. Thanks for all the input, fellas. I'm thinking I'll have to convince myself I need upgraded cams to minimise the detonation!
  12. Ha! After a quick google search to verify (because you need to double check everything these days) you are absolutely right. 98 ron = 94 US (R+M)/2 , some average of RON and MON Was not aware of this. Thank you sir..
  13. Hi all, In short, can you run flat top pistons (whether it is standard 86mm bore or oversized at 87/87.5mm) in their N42 equipped head on their L28? No head work and a stock/mild cam? The general consensus is that no, you can't due to poor head design resulting in pre-ignition - however, a lot of these reports are based off American zed owner feedback; a location where fuel is lower in octane/grade in comparison to Australia. Their premium is 92/93 octane compared to our 98. I know some might say the following: - Why not run dished pistons, the extra points in compression to dial
  14. Just thought I'd give it a crack, money was never the concern. I take it these books are definitely worth having? Seems like it but I don't want to buy a book for information I can find on this forum, for example.
×
×
  • Create New...