Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Still yet to take the zed for a decent spin as the carbon bonnet is flexing too much.  I am missing the bonnet bumpers that go along the fender to keep it secure.  They have been ordered and won't be long now.

 

I have been debating for a while whether to paint the front spoiler body colour or keep it black.  Well, i did finally paint it and am really glad I did.  As you can see with before and after pics, it gives it a more completed look.  With the fender emblems, the exterior is now complete :)

post-1856-144023688963_thumb.jpg

post-1856-144023688969_thumb.jpg

post-1856-144023688974_thumb.jpg

Posted

I wasn't planning on a Melbourne trip in the Z, but a weekend away with fellow zed freaks does sound good. Interested in a road trip Mick?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Bonnet secured, heat shield blanket installed, rego payed..... on the weekend I took the Z out for its first real spin........

 

Video footage is not available. This thing is BRUTAL. Nothing more to say, except thank you Peter. :-X

post-1856-144023691234_thumb.jpg

post-1856-14402369124_thumb.jpg

post-1856-144023691247_thumb.jpg

post-1856-144023691253_thumb.jpg

Posted

No video  >:(  At least show us the smile on your dial as I bet it's still there  ;D

 

Well done.  Your beast looks fantastic.

Posted

No video  >:(  At least show us the smile on your dial as I bet it's still there  ;D

Well done.  Your beast looks fantastic.

Thanks Simon.  When I get her on the track one day I will take some video.

 

Bring it over for the Christmas party! Please? :D

Mick and I are contemplating coming over for the Christmas BBQ, but it won't be happening in a zed.  Too far.  We will bring our smiles though.  Is that enough?

 

looks great man well done , should be a hoot to drive and man you might need to have lots off cash for fuel if you drive it to vic ...lol

If I ever do take the zed to vic, it will be going straight to the z factory for sunroof removal.  I better start saving :)

Posted

If I ever do take the zed to vic, it will be going straight to the z factory for sunroof removal.  I better start saving :)

 

I'd be having a word to Ledge (Paul) on here before you do that...

Posted

Looks super neat and tidy, not a wire out of place  8)

 

Interesting thing with the heat blanket, I haven't seen that before other than turbos but I bet it's better than the regular shielding. Can you tell us some more info on it?

  • Administrators
Posted

Amazing mate, all that work and effort has paid off. We want video footage though I need to see how this thing boogies.

Posted

Interesting thing with the heat blanket, I haven't seen that before other than turbos but I bet it's better than the regular shielding. Can you tell us some more info on it?

 

Hey Gareth.  I would have used a steel heat shield, but the SW extractors come out from the block almost horizontally and are very very close to the second carby.  Even with the ceramic coating on the extractors, carby 2 would get very hot, more so than the other two.  The blanket is great as it is flexible and slips between the mikuni's and the extractors.  I was able to get the blanket higher up than a steel heat shield and after driving, all 3 carby's are only warm and equal temperature so it's quite effective as a barrier.  Apparently the blanket does not reduce the life of the extractors like header wrap too.  I got the blanket from Summit as they did the best price. ;)

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have been enjoying driving my zed this summer with the new engine and amazed at the fuel economy and drivability of this PMC powerplant.  Definitely a well tuned engine. And the sound...... :D

 

2 "bugs" that have been doing my head in since reassembly are now down to only one.  They are firstly, car pulls strongly to the left and secondly I cannot get a brake pedal since re-assembly of the engine bay.

 

With regards to the pulling left:  I checked my alignment front and rear and also got the MSA camber adjustable strut tops to equalize front camber as there was much more on the front left wheel. Still no difference. Ensured brakes weren't rubbing.  Nothing.  Switched front wheels and BINGO, car pulls to the right.  A tyre must be "bad". This is a shame since these tyres are like new Falken 245 45 16 and not cheap in this size.  I will swap them with either the same size or 225 50 16 and keep these as spares for the rear which are also Falken 245 45 16.  Looking at them closely, i cannot understand what would be allowing this pulling though.  They would be great for oval circuit racing :D

 

Should I go with 245's or 225's for the front on the 9" wheels?  Any recommendations on brand? 

 

Secondly, I cannot get a brake pedal!!  It doesn't seem spongy, but only starts to brake when the pedal is to the floor.  Brakes are stock except for braided SS hoses and were working so well prior to engine bay re fresh. I have tried bleeding the brake MC in car, adjust rear drums and re bleeding brakes, but no pedal.  I have made sure the pedal under the dash is adjusted correctly too.

 

The only thing i didn't do was bench bleed the MC, but bled it on the car as it has 2 bleeder nipples.  Is it possible that bench bleeding was essential and that there is still air in the MC despite bleeding it on the car?  I would have thought pedal spongy if so. 

 

Should I assume the rear drums suck and are hard to get adjusted right and I should buy Lurch's 280zx rear disc set up?

 

  • Moderators
Posted

Start bleeding from the master first (all in the car) then from the left rear, right rear, left front then finish with the front right. Then check the rod length from booster to master cylinder. Try increasing it's length my a couple of mm.

Posted

Go over all your connections I had trouble with my wilwoods I I noticed that one of the connections on one of the junctions was slightly moist it was only a quarter of a turn loose. They bled right up after that.

Posted

Sounds like air in the system...

 

Have you had the MC apart, Rob?

 

......what Lurch said. Most likely the MC is bypassing due to picking up rust a crud during the long strokes of the bleed process. Either kit the MC if it looks alright or new one if not.

Posted

Hi,

  I had the same problem once. I couldn't get all the air out by pumping the pedal. I fixed it by getting a 1" plastic syringe from Bunnings and attaching a piece of clear tube over the tip and fitting the other end to the Master Cylinder bleed screws. Open the screw and draw the brake fluid through with the syringe. When the air bubbles stop coming through do the other bleed screw. This worked good for me.

Regards

David.

Posted

Have you checked the reaction disc inside the booster?. Sometimes they fall off and cause spongyness. Did you ever take off your booster and if so did you hear anything clunking around inside the booster.

Posted

Could it be a vacuum issue with the booster?  I had a similar issue with my 260z in the States, fixed the booster and perfect.

Rev.

Posted

Thanks guys.  ;)

 

Start bleeding from the master first (all in the car) then from the left rear, right rear, left front then finish with the front right. Then check the rod length from booster to master cylinder.

I bled it this way, but never checked rod length.

 

Could it be a vacuum issue with the booster?  I had a similar issue with my 260z in the States, fixed the booster and perfect.

Rev.

I now reckon it may be the booster also.  I tried this technique ( http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/coupe/service/webtech/iindex.asp@id=12476 ) for testing it and i couldn't get the brake pedal to travel less or get firmer with several pumps.  I will check it properly when it is not a 44 degree day. :o

 

Sounds like air in the system...

Have you had the MC apart, Rob?

Off the car yes, but not apart.  It still could be air in the MC and might need to bleed it better.  Hey Enzo250GTO I have a vacuum gun thingy (mightyvac) and bled it with this aswell as pumping of the pedal.

 

Have you checked the reaction disc inside the booster?. Sometimes they fall off and cause spongyness. Did you ever take off your booster and if so did you hear anything clunking around inside the booster.

Thanks Tai, I haven't checked the reaction disc inside the booster, nor do I know how to or what one is.  I will first determine if booster has failed. I did man-handle it a bit when i was removing rust and painting it.

 

Hey Mick, i have checked the joins and found no leaks.  I might go to rear discs anyways but not until i have the factory system functioning well.  Just the look of drums these days makes small children run away.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...