MaygZ

Does it run?

Guys, I found this in random searching and I though it might be of help to all trying to remove body deadener mechanically. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRphhE8sGIk The guy seems a bit 'unique', but I've never seen it removed this way before and it looks REALLY easy. Admin: if this should be somewhere else, please move it.

I hope you find this series as inspirational as I do. Really Darling I'm watching a Zed video. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0S6QXvooAG2d73FKm4NNE2JTu5HDKGxr

Lurchos, your work on the roof panel from scratch is some of the best work I've seen you do. Well done mate. I hope you are very proud of the result of your efforts. MaygZ

What headers did you go with?

That's some seriously bad cutting skills. Or it might be very skilful if that used garden shears! Enjoy the journey. Keep the faith. Just log on here and study other journals if you start to lose momentum.

Gordo, Did you build your own loom or buy one off the shelf? Where did you buy your loom/get it made? Who is your mate that set up the wiring? Are you running stock gauges or using after-market ones? Which taco did you end up going with and did it fit neatly into your dash? Do you still run with the zed dash or have you built a custom dash? Did you keep the same speedo (do you even run a speedo)? If so, how did you set it up? From where does it read? Did you have to go to a digital speedo? If you could squeeze in some details and photos regarding your loom and gauge set-up it would be appreciated. MaygZ

Bushing Kit https://www.energysusp.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=7803

Justjap.com https://justjap.com/bc-racing-coilover-suspension-kit-nissan-s30-240z-260z-280z-55mm-strut.html

Please add others you find. MadDat http://www.maddat.com.au/suspension/240z-260z-s30

TTT https://technotoytuning.com/

AZC http://arizonazcar.com/

Silvermine https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z

https://www.apexengineered.com/ I haven't used them, but they look amazing.

These look more solid than TTT or AZC kits. https://www.apexengineered.com/ Anyone used them?

John, I hope that when you have finished there will still be room in it somewhere for you (and maybe me?). Looking great.

Member Wags found these radios and posted one on his build page: https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/17540-wags’-240z-nut-and-bolt-restoration/page/2/#comments I wanted to be able to find it again when I finally get to it, so though others might be the same. This is the mob that makes/sells them: https://www.retrosoundusa.com.au/index.php?l=product_list&c=13

To fix the leak: take it out and use Teflon tape on the thread when you put it back in.

Gav, I find that doing things properly the first time always ends up being cheaper. If you pull it down and get it dipped the bore should only need a hone. That's not a lot of money or effort to ensure you don't block your new radiator and heater core. It will also mean that engine water galleys don't block up and cause hot spots that may force you to strip it down after the damage has been done. MaygZ

It looks later than a '73, but what does LYX stand for?

I know that at times the written word does not convey the subtle nuances of the English language, but your response has come across as more hostile than is necessary in these circumstances. My comments were meant to assist you and any potential purchasers that in order to use on the road some modifications would be needed. If my message conveyed anything else to you, then I am sorry. Each of us have some knowledge and advice to share with this community. That is one of the many beauties and purposes of this forum. I know that some on-line forums actively require members to harass and abuse others - some even require it - but this is not one of those sites. This site is about help and most of the members regard the other members as a type of family. I do hope that you stay around long enough to find that out and that you haven't burnt too many bridges by that time.

I don't want to be a party pooper, but your side skirts do not comply with the ADRs and would make a vehicle unroadworthy. All forward facing protrusions from the vehicle must have a radius of at least 10mm to comply. It doesn't look to be difficult to alter your skirts to comply, but that may have an affect on the aesthetics. MaygZ

Roger, yes, that is something I didn't see when I looked at Peter's diagram. Obviously the drawn position of the tyre needs to be moved to stay in the correct relationship with the now moved stub axle - as you are quite right that the relationship with the stub axle (and therefore the wheel and tyre) with the strut tube is unchanged by changing the KPI. Peoples, please ignore my comments in the above post regarding 'scrub angle' as this doesn't really change (with the exception of possible reduced tyre/road contact due to increased negative camber) The most significant change made by the move would be increase of negative camber It would be interesting to see how much the KPI (and therefore camber) changes through suspension travel even with what I suspect is only a move of the LCA inner mount by about an inch.

Roger, I'm not sure I agree with the above. I hope my memory is surviving, but I remember the KPI as being the angle between a vertical line from the lower ball joint and a line between the upper and lower pivot points (The strut mount and the lower ball joint). Moving the LCA pickup up, down, in or out (and the LCA length remaining constant or changing the length of he LCA) will move the lower ball joint in or out relative to the strut mount. This movement has to affect the KPI, as the strut mount stays fixed any change of the lower ball joint position has to either increase or decease the KPI. If the diagram above is accurate, then having the KPI line through the centre of the tyre means there is no 'scrub angle'. Effectively reducing the 'auto-centre' of the steering to zero and therefore full steering input is required to straighten the car. This also has the effect of meaning that any change in geometry due to suspension travel will require steering input to rectify. The higher KPI will also produce more negative camber and more toe-in on compression (because our steering arm is forward of the spindle?) - which will produce a little understeer and may result in a 'feel' of wandering as it will require more steering input to correct. The upside is that the steering should be quite light. Again, if I recall correctly, much of this can be improved by increasing caster angle - pushing the wheel forward - which also reduces the KPI and increases toe-in. This will make the steering heavier but increase the auto-centring and 'feel' of the steering. It may be a good idea to jack up the car, remove the spring (and the shocker?) and push/pull the suspension through its full travel. Measuring the changes through travel will show you exactly what is happening. Something to remember is that many of the negative issues here can also be the result of low tyre pressure (simply allowing the car to 'roll about' on balloons) - so that would be my first check as it is the cheapest. I hope this helps and I hope I've remembered my trade school suspension classes correctly. I've never even held one of the TTT bump steer spacers, but again if my brain is working, it seems to me that these would bring the LCA angle back closer to stock with only very small changes to KPI, caster and camber as they seem to me that they don't alter the lower outer pivot point they just bring the LCA back into the right arc. At least that's what they look like they would do to me.

The local IGA has replaced most of their shelving and a polite request from a great bloke got some free shelving. I'm running 3 phase power to the shed and the boss wants to put solar on the roof. I need 16mm 4+e cabling to run from the old coach house to the shed (about 70m) and this cable is a bit over $1k. Then there is the HD conduit and digging the trench; so that is going to have to wait for a little while. I ended up painting the floor myself. It went well until the clear coat. I left the two colour coats for a week and they got a fair bit of airborne dust on them. I gave them a good sweep, but I should have washed them. The clear coat has sort of gathered the dust so some roller marks and the like can be seen. Oh well, it's a shed floor. Of course the IGA shelving is not the only shelving I've build in the last month. Over the next month I will be cleaning up things from the Coach House and moving them down to the new shed. THEN I can get into the car again.