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MaygZ last won the day on August 1

MaygZ had the most liked content!


About MaygZ

  • Rank
    The 1000+ club
  • Birthday 06/19/1965

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  • Location
    Romsey, Victoria
  • Tagline
    Blind progress is still progress.

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  1. To fix the leak: take it out and use Teflon tape on the thread when you put it back in.
  2. Gav, I find that doing things properly the first time always ends up being cheaper. If you pull it down and get it dipped the bore should only need a hone. That's not a lot of money or effort to ensure you don't block your new radiator and heater core. It will also mean that engine water galleys don't block up and cause hot spots that may force you to strip it down after the damage has been done. MaygZ
  3. It looks later than a '73, but what does LYX stand for?
  4. I know that at times the written word does not convey the subtle nuances of the English language, but your response has come across as more hostile than is necessary in these circumstances. My comments were meant to assist you and any potential purchasers that in order to use on the road some modifications would be needed. If my message conveyed anything else to you, then I am sorry. Each of us have some knowledge and advice to share with this community. That is one of the many beauties and purposes of this forum. I know that some on-line forums actively require members to harass and abuse others - some even require it - but this is not one of those sites. This site is about help and most of the members regard the other members as a type of family. I do hope that you stay around long enough to find that out and that you haven't burnt too many bridges by that time.
  5. I don't want to be a party pooper, but your side skirts do not comply with the ADRs and would make a vehicle unroadworthy. All forward facing protrusions from the vehicle must have a radius of at least 10mm to comply. It doesn't look to be difficult to alter your skirts to comply, but that may have an affect on the aesthetics. MaygZ
  6. Roger, yes, that is something I didn't see when I looked at Peter's diagram. Obviously the drawn position of the tyre needs to be moved to stay in the correct relationship with the now moved stub axle - as you are quite right that the relationship with the stub axle (and therefore the wheel and tyre) with the strut tube is unchanged by changing the KPI. Peoples, please ignore my comments in the above post regarding 'scrub angle' as this doesn't really change (with the exception of possible reduced tyre/road contact due to increased negative camber) The most significant change made by the move would be increase of negative camber It would be interesting to see how much the KPI (and therefore camber) changes through suspension travel even with what I suspect is only a move of the LCA inner mount by about an inch.
  7. Roger, I'm not sure I agree with the above. I hope my memory is surviving, but I remember the KPI as being the angle between a vertical line from the lower ball joint and a line between the upper and lower pivot points (The strut mount and the lower ball joint). Moving the LCA pickup up, down, in or out (and the LCA length remaining constant or changing the length of he LCA) will move the lower ball joint in or out relative to the strut mount. This movement has to affect the KPI, as the strut mount stays fixed any change of the lower ball joint position has to either increase or decease the KPI. If the diagram above is accurate, then having the KPI line through the centre of the tyre means there is no 'scrub angle'. Effectively reducing the 'auto-centre' of the steering to zero and therefore full steering input is required to straighten the car. This also has the effect of meaning that any change in geometry due to suspension travel will require steering input to rectify. The higher KPI will also produce more negative camber and more toe-in on compression (because our steering arm is forward of the spindle?) - which will produce a little understeer and may result in a 'feel' of wandering as it will require more steering input to correct. The upside is that the steering should be quite light. Again, if I recall correctly, much of this can be improved by increasing caster angle - pushing the wheel forward - which also reduces the KPI and increases toe-in. This will make the steering heavier but increase the auto-centring and 'feel' of the steering. It may be a good idea to jack up the car, remove the spring (and the shocker?) and push/pull the suspension through its full travel. Measuring the changes through travel will show you exactly what is happening. Something to remember is that many of the negative issues here can also be the result of low tyre pressure (simply allowing the car to 'roll about' on balloons) - so that would be my first check as it is the cheapest. I hope this helps and I hope I've remembered my trade school suspension classes correctly. I've never even held one of the TTT bump steer spacers, but again if my brain is working, it seems to me that these would bring the LCA angle back closer to stock with only very small changes to KPI, caster and camber as they seem to me that they don't alter the lower outer pivot point they just bring the LCA back into the right arc. At least that's what they look like they would do to me.
  8. The local IGA has replaced most of their shelving and a polite request from a great bloke got some free shelving. I'm running 3 phase power to the shed and the boss wants to put solar on the roof. I need 16mm 4+e cabling to run from the old coach house to the shed (about 70m) and this cable is a bit over $1k. Then there is the HD conduit and digging the trench; so that is going to have to wait for a little while. I ended up painting the floor myself. It went well until the clear coat. I left the two colour coats for a week and they got a fair bit of airborne dust on them. I gave them a good sweep, but I should have washed them. The clear coat has sort of gathered the dust so some roller marks and the like can be seen. Oh well, it's a shed floor. Of course the IGA shelving is not the only shelving I've build in the last month. Over the next month I will be cleaning up things from the Coach House and moving them down to the new shed. THEN I can get into the car again.
  9. The LS is only about 30kg lighter so it really shouldn't matter. This weight is more that made up for by the T56 also. I support the reduction in caster angle is making it a bit 'flighty'. It will respond to input (both internal and external) more quickly. You might see significant improvement if you increase the caster a little and consider adding in the steering spacers from TTT and others to reduce bump steer angles. Roll Centre Adjusters We all enjoy a 'spirited' drive, but when the undies get a stain it is time to fix the problem.
  10. Good work mate. I love seeing the joy on your face. I know that it doesn't take wind resistance into consideration but 148Hp at the wheels and 170km/h is nothing to sneeze at. Well done.
  11. Fantastic effort Jeff. So good to see your pure joy as the reward.
  12. PM'd I bought this shed through Bendigo Garages. I can't pump up their tyres enough. They were great. They gave me some great advice that saved me thousands of dollars - I initially wanted it 8m deep and they told me that if I go over 7.5 then all the roofing needs to go up a rating and it would cost about $12K for that extra room. This money then went into extending for a further bay instead (which I think is a much better plan). They took care of every stage from council permits (because it was now over 100m2, building permits, concreter and the erection crew (stop giggling Luvemfast) had the whole thing up in 5 days and left the site cleaner than they found it. If anyone in Vic is interested in a new shed I recommend them. If you are outside Vic they can probably still do it or recommend a local they know. www.bendigogarages.com.au I hope this link works - if not just cut and paste it into a browser.
  13. As you may have read, I've moved house again. This will be my girl's third home, so I wanted it to be extra nice for her. A new shed has been build for her. 16 x 7.5 x 4m. In a couple of weeks the concrete will have cured enough for a 2 pac coating - probably a light grey to reflect light better. I still have to run the power (single and 3 phase), put the solar on the roof, put in some LED lights and she will ready to go. I'm hoping it will all be finished by the end of April and then I can really get some progress on my girl.
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