Home Built Z 'full Video Build'

[Enzo]

Hi Jeff,  At about 9.20 you referred to the Dual Circuit pressure differential switch as the brake bias adjuster. (It's Not). This switch is for registering a loss of pressure in either the front or rear circuits. When this happens the electrical connection on the top illuminates a light on the dash to let you know of the pressure loss.

A separate pressure regulating block should be in the circuit and this is what stops the rear brakes locking before the front brakes. (Page 137 Haynes Manual)

Keep up the progress.

As for the carbs only run 3-4 lb of fuel pressure. A fuel pressure regulator should be used and if you want install a gauge as well. The return line can be plumbed in with a restrictor. (A Holley jet will do pushed into the line will do). This will allow pressure  to the needle and seats to bleed off. What can happen on hot days, is that after shutting the engine off, the pressure in the lines increases with the under bonnet heat and can force it's way past the needle and seats making a restart hard as the engine floods. The original Datsun fuel lines had a small hole restrictor in the return line.

Cheers

David.

Edited December 29, 2018 by Enzo

[TOO60Z]

Swap your calipers over so the bleed nipples are at the top. That will help you get a pedal.

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

In this episode I install the electric fuel pump and tidy up some more of the engine bay in the 680g

 

 

[Enzo]

Hi Jeff,

            Looks like a few splits in the fuel filler hose connected to the tank.

           Cool idea using the cable ties on the plug leads. Haven't seen that one before.

           If you have the 3x tube steel fuel line (which has the return line) you can plumb into that to keep the fuel line neater.

           Also for negative earth lead use one that has two fittings so it can be bolted to the firewall as well as the engine gearbox joining bolt.

Cheers  

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

7 minutes ago, Enzo said:

       If you have the 3x tube steel fuel line (which has the return line) you can plumb into that to keep the fuel line neater.

Sorry I am not sure what you mean here?

[jeff43]

Hi Jeff,

On Vorn's 240Z, he used some "adel" clamps mounted off the front of the head to hold his fuel lines - could be an option for your fuel lines.

Cheers Jeff

[Enzo]

I might have jumped the gun Jeff. I have the 260Z which has the 3x fuel line which incorporates a return line. I think the 240Z only had the 2 lines. I can't remember what you showed in one of the earlier videos of your spare parts.

[gilltech]

The earlier 260Zs like mine also have just the two fuel lines a la 240Z, supply and return. What does the 3rd line actually do then?

[PB260Z]

Hi

From memory, The third line goes to the charcoal canister.

cheers

PB

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

12 hours ago, jeff43 said:

Hi Jeff,

On Vorn's 240Z, he used some "adel" clamps mounted off the front of the head to hold his fuel lines - could be an option for your fuel lines.

Cheers Jeff

I have gotten myself some similar clamps to do the same thing. That is a great reference pic, thanks.

12 hours ago, Enzo said:

I might have jumped the gun Jeff. I have the 260Z which has the 3x fuel line which incorporates a return line. I think the 240Z only had the 2 lines. I can't remember what you showed in one of the earlier videos of your spare parts.

Ahh, ok, I see what you are talking about. Mine only has the 2 lines as the others mentioned.

[jeff43]

I'm enjoying this build Jeff. It is working out nicely for me as I'm a few steps behind you, which allows me to learn from any of your mistakes - Gold. Just kidding, you are doing a great job and it does help me to see what you have done about a month before I get to do the same thing on my car. Keep up the good work.

Cheers Jeff

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

11 hours ago, jeff43 said:

I'm enjoying this build Jeff. It is working out nicely for me as I'm a few steps behind you, which allows me to learn from any of your mistakes - Gold. Just kidding, you are doing a great job and it does help me to see what you have done about a month before I get to do the same thing on my car. Keep up the good work.

Cheers Jeff

Hey, if you can learn from my mistakes then it is all worth while. That is why I don't cover up stuff. I just show it as it is and try to work through it.

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

In this episode I have a go at repairing the dash and also modify and fit an accelerator cable to my Z.

 

 

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

This week I redo my Datsun's dash repair with a factory style textured finish.

 

 

[gav240z]

Hot water taps are notorious for leaking on these.

Nice work on the dash I considered this kind of repair also, because it's much cheaper than vacuum forming. But as you can see it's not "perfect". Hence I found an already re-skinned dash at a good price for my car ($400). I'm wondering what product you used as your flexible bumper filler? If you can share the product name of that and your textured paint?

I used truck bed liner on my center console and it gave a nice texture, but not the same as OEM.

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

The bumper filler brand is Isopon and the paint just says Body Texture Paint, both were just found doing searches on ebay.

[gav240z]

Thanks Jeff,

I've got a spare dash in storage with massive cracks that I got to experiment with more than anything else. The frame is somewhat rusty also, thinking of a dip in molasses to treat it. Then maybe hit it with silver paint?

On my 71 it has the original dash still (cracked in a couple of places, but it's not bad..) and I would like to see if there is a way to provide a seamless repair to retain the original dash texture and look/feel. Re-skinning is great and looks superb, but it does add a few mm of thickness to the gauge housing areas and that can make getting gauges back in a little tougher than OEM.

I personally haven't had an issue with my own re-skinned dash in my 72, but others have had to warm up the hair dryers and crack out the vaseline to get the gauges back in. "Honey just grabbing your hair dryer, and do we have any vaseline?" haha.

Given your build is all about DIY (not outsourcing) this method makes perfect sense, I'm glad you didn't try and re-trim the dash, no offence but it would have turned out awful.. I've seen similar jobs in the past.

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

A tip one of my viewers just gave me for bigger cracks was using expanding foam to fill some space and then the flexible filler on the top. The method I have used I am sure won't last forever, but it will give the dash a few more years of life.

[gav240z]

You can always re-skin later if this method doesn't hold up, by then I might have convinced my mate Hung in the US to do the RHD dashpad's (vintage dashes). He's not convinced there is enough of a market yet for RHD to make the production investment worth it. He may be correct.

[Andrew_L26]

7 minutes ago, HomeBuiltByJeff said:

A tip one of my viewers just gave me for bigger cracks was using expanding foam to fill some space and then the flexible filler on the top. The method I have used I am sure won't last forever, but it will give the dash a few more years of life.

Haha that was me! What I did with my dash repair was cut the cracks out (mine were a fair bit worse than yours with me needing to cut all the way through the dash pad) then expanding foam, then normal body filler then high fill primer and finally a ute bed liner. It cracked after 6 months which I believe was the body filler cracking. I will be interested to see if your flexible body filler works and lasts a decent amount of time. Also your finish with the textured paint and then the matte black vinyl paint was a much much closer finish than my method. The bed liner I used gave it a rubberised coating which feels crappy and is super hard to clean. 

Does the repaired area on your dash feel like the original hard plastic shell or does it have a rubbery type texture? 

I'm thinking I might just get a TopStage fibreglass/carbon fibre dash pad and then finish it with either a professional reskin or a similar method to how you did yours. 

Loving the videos!

[YosemiteZed]

Hi jeff

sirpent did a repair of the valve

https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/6799-air-con-refurbishment-heater-fan-upgrade/

this might help

cheers

phil

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

39 minutes ago, YosemiteZed said:

Hi jeff

sirpent did a repair of the valve

https://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/6799-air-con-refurbishment-heater-fan-upgrade/

this might help

cheers

phil

I literally just finished buying a new valve 30 seconds before reading this. I have got one from ebay out of Japan for about $100 (Nissan here wanted over $300!). Mine is a bit different to that one though. Either way, it will be a couple of weeks before I can reinstall the dash so I will have to get onto other things  

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

1 hour ago, Andrew_L26 said:

Haha that was me! What I did with my dash repair was cut the cracks out (mine were a fair bit worse than yours with me needing to cut all the way through the dash pad) then expanding foam, then normal body filler then high fill primer and finally a ute bed liner. It cracked after 6 months which I believe was the body filler cracking. I will be interested to see if your flexible body filler works and lasts a decent amount of time. Also your finish with the textured paint and then the matte black vinyl paint was a much much closer finish than my method. The bed liner I used gave it a rubberised coating which feels crappy and is super hard to clean. 

Does the repaired area on your dash feel like the original hard plastic shell or does it have a rubbery type texture? 

I'm thinking I might just get a TopStage fibreglass/carbon fibre dash pad and then finish it with either a professional reskin or a similar method to how you did yours. 

Loving the videos!

It will be interesting to see how well this repair lasts. I do like the fact that it is a bit more flexible, but who knows. At the moment the top of the dash does feel a bit different to the bottom. It feels a bit more rough, like overspray, but I think I can get it a bit better with another going over  

[HomeBuiltByJeff]

I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors.

 

 

[HS30-H]

I'm confused about the belts. Factory belts were THREE point, lap and shoulder sash. The shoulder belt runs from the quarter pillar and through the loop on the sill, then across your lap. The tunnel side belt meets half way on the lap. Are you going to fit aftermarket inertia reels and only use TWO points, or have I misunderstood...???

Doors were adjusted at the factory with specially shaped shims, as were the inspection flaps and tailgate.

Factory parts list diagrams/schematics and factory service manuals tell you pretty much all you need to know about how to reassemble the door furniture and door glass, as well as how to adjust it all properly. Have you not got any factory literature? I consider it essential reading and reference.

Skimping on the cowl locating tab bushes is a poor decision. They are The Right Part in The Right Location, cost next to nothing all things considered and do the job FAR better than bits of rubber hose. What are you thinking?! 

Maybe it's the heat that's making it worse, but you're starting to cut too many corners and your impatience and frustration is palpable. You have a BIG audience at your disposal via all the forums you are posting this vlog to and many of the people watching have done it all before you many times. Why not ask for advice/tips, do and don'ts, component checks and even scans from relevant factory literature BEFORE you embark on each section? When I was watching you messing around with the front brake calipers I almost spit my tea out at the screen in wanting to tell you that you were using 260Z hubs (and 260Z struts) not 240Z type, and that's why you were getting offset issues. A quick peep in the FSM or FPM would show you the difference between the hub types, and explain why the calipers were not fitting. Come on, ask us!

And by the way, don't worry about your seat belts killing you. Your roll hoop will do that first...