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gilltech

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Everything posted by gilltech

  1. I've collected quite a number of '70s-era road tests of various S30s - by British, American and Australian car magazines - and the 'near 50/50 weight distribution' is often mentioned. But I have yet to find it in Nissan's own words as it were. Still looking!
  2. I don't know that Nissan made parts available for the wet legs, apart from the gland nuts, as they offered their own inserts... CAF might know... Is one 'stopper' still intact, can you have a new pair machined up in a matching plastic or nylon, or maybe better yet in aluminium? Talk to a machine shop. Or some friendly DIY person with a lathe in their home workshop... There has been talk on this forum previously about spring non-capture when installing short springs to lower the ride height. Some didn't seem concerned, as you say just don't get airborne! - one even suggested wiring the springs in place; but others including myself considered it a safety issue and surely not roadworthy nor insurance compliant. Not to mention a PITA during front end maintenance. You say 30-40mm, that seems a lot - I once tried King Springs lows on my 260 and they were barely captured at one end and too short by about 12mm at the other so I didn't proceed.
  3. Am not surprised. HK would surely not be an ideal place to keep a classic car, thanks to a mix of salt air, humidity, fairly high rainfall, and, so I've been told, for the better heeled who live in elevated areas 'up in the clouds' with all the airborne moisture that that entails.
  4. I'm not clear what you are trying to do? Replace original damper assemblies with KYB cartridges? Or replace old KYB cartridges with new ones? IIRC, although it's been many years, once you unscrew the gland nut the original damper 'guts' or cartridge as applicable just slide up and out. Both will be, or should be, dripping in oil, as even self-contained cartridges are installed in oil to provide heat transfer.
  5. Trying to help. Have looked through much of the S30 data I have collected over the decades for that elusive 'official' S30 front/rear weight distribution info and no joy as yet. In various data charts I have, the weight distribution cell, if there is one, is blank. The JAF 260Z 2+2 homologation info provides probably every dimension and component weight one would ever want, but no front/rear weight distribution figures. Maybe Nissan never published the figures, and it's been owners who have had their cars measured for their own purposes? FWIW, the JAF info states total weight of the 2+2 with normal equipment, water, oil and spare wheel, but without fuel nor repair tools, to be 1,110kg (2447 lbs). Almost 200kg heavier than an early 2-seater. Guess you'll have to find an owner of a stock 2+2 to help as you say. Your engineer would have fun assessing an old 911, which I understand to be around 40/60...!!!
  6. That's a bit harsh. People on this forum are generally very helpful, IF they have the right information. I doubt if many if any have felt the need to have their car weighed front and back. The Zeds are generally known to have roughly 50/50 weight distribution, either wheelbase. With some variance depending on live loads such as driver, petrol etc. AFAIK and my understanding is that a barely wet 240Z is likely 51/49 front/back, but that reverses with a full tank of gas. A 2+2 is a bit heavier and a touch more at the back, but that can be offset by a big lump of A/C gear up front if fitted as many 2+2s in Australia were. So why don't you get your engineer to base start with the 50/50 scenario and then calculate the effect the V8/trans weight will have in place of the i6/5-spd's weight. Info on USA forums would indicate there's little in it if the V8 is alloy. The unanswered question remains: what variance (%?) will he accept?
  7. Well that went well... But a 1938 BMW R71 Nice...
  8. Curious. If the engineer wants to use distribution percentages as a determining factor then has he said what margin of difference will constitute a pass vs a fail? I believe the Zeds are generally considered to have around 50/50 weight distribution, which alters rearward depending on whether there is a driver and maybe also a passenger included and how much fuel is carried.... Info posted online by those in the USA who have done the alloy LS1 & T56 substitution for the Datsun i6 and 5-speed indicates there is little between those engines weight-wise. Also that the only slightly heavier V8 sits further back than the i6 which further helps its case. PS. would Kennards or the like have scales for rent by any chance? With the car sitting dead level simply weigh one wheel at a time. Would be interesting to see what the difference is at each corner...
  9. Ditto what Gav says. The blue or black enamel shrinks over the decades and falls out. Even if new they aren't that good - I have 3 NOS ones in dry dark storage where the clear coating over the blue enamel has yellowed so the chrome in the centre area looks gold. Meaning they would have to be stripped before using or they would look odd. FWIW, of the ones I have there are two versions, one being less rounded at the corners than the other. But close enough.
  10. Nothing silly about that idea. Something of a close diameter to the wheel hub that will push on, firmly, maybe add a dab of silicone sealant to hold it in place. I don't think any of the old school alloy wheel centres, like Cheviot or ROH, would work as they are designed to clip into the hole.
  11. It's OK Aron, that's our Z repair guru and his standard reply when someone announces they are chasing some part or other...!!! (silly English term...!) Nice looking ute BTW. I suspect those Z wheels are more numerous than the number of surviving caps. I could do with one or two more myself as I have several wheels. There is a later 'Z' style cap used on the ZX cars which have metal fingers that clip into the hole very firmly and don't fall off like those silly push-on ones. They're what I prefer. They come up on eBay or Gumtree from time to time, with a pair on Ebay currently although they don't look to be in good condition. BTW. Has anyone come up with another wheel centre option? Just need something to clip in to the hole and maybe take a 'Z' emblem.
  12. If central bolt fixing system then they could be from an early Skyline, a 240K or an early 280ZX.
  13. What CAF says. Same both sides too, regardless of the diff offset. FWIW, 260Zs came fitted with either R180 or R200 diffs and with different ratios depending whether auto or manual, early or later cars.
  14. Ah, my bad, I misread and thought by 'top of their cycle' it was stopping at the end of the sweep not top of screen. OK. Digging into the memory banks here, it's been decades since I refurbished mine after the wipers had started parking at random positions. On my 260 when I switch off the wipers they always make another full sweep. That has something to do with the motor (reversing IIRC?) which activates that spring mechanism on the side of it which in turn alters the linkage to provide the park function. I recall having to dig out dried lube and freeing things up. Maybe on yours that mechanism needs an overhaul, maybe the spring is jammed or broken. Worth a look anyway. The wipers will never park properly if that mechanism is operating incorrectly or not at all.
  15. I think the first thing to check is whether in fact you have the linkage connected the right way around.
  16. See? The very best Zeds have sunroofs. And he's probably put sill trims on to prevent stone damage, rather than ugly mudflaps.
  17. 'Clean lines'? Far too plain and 'clean' to my eye. I much prefer a Zed with bobtail, front spoiler, lowered with alloy wheels and yes a pop-up sunroof which when popped up it all looks the business. Form follows function. So I'm keeping my sunroof thanks, for me it makes the car! See avatar. I forgot to add that the pop-up sunroof is also a pop-out, as in the glass panel is removable. Bag it and stow it and one is part way to having a T-roof Zed. Which would be nice. FWIW, I do recall seeing photos of a custom T-roof S30 in a magazine a few years back..... And then there was also a station wagon.....
  18. Haha! Excellent! Gets them going every time! Garn, admit it, ensconced in a Zed at speed on a fine sunny day, with the windows wound down and the sunroof open, listening to that straight 6, is a very nice place to be... (Oh and BTW I just love Monty Python...) !!!
  19. No doubt I will receive hate mail and be blacklisted for speaking out but I say +1 for sunroofs in Zeds! Better ventilation, less claustrophobic...
  20. What about one of those gap-filling expanding spray foam products that plumbers use to seal around pipes.
  21. If you can put up pictures of the gearbox (especially RH side), and diff installation (on a 260Z the diff is either a R180 or R200) then the forum gurus knowledgeable of such things - such as CAF - will be able to tell you what you've got.
  22. Yes the very end of the loom is to the coil and distributor. Sounds like it wouldn't take much to restore it to original, simply by modelling it off another car. One option of course would be to go back to stock or close to it by finding a 2.6 or 2.8L motor, and sell off the 2L. Do you know what gearbox is fitted?
  23. So was your car actually a 260Z or a JDM Fairlady which may have had a 2L motor? Seems odd to go down to a 2L if it was originally a 2.6 (except of course it does have a turbo), as most seem to go the other way with a 2.8L for more cubes. Is the original wiring loom still mostly intact or has it been badly hacked about by the POs?
  24. Not that I know of. But try matching the profiles with those available via Clark Rubber, for starters.
  25. One needs to make sure that the correct rating of bolt is used in each location, as coded on the head of the bolt. Using generic is a lottery. I would recommend re-using the existing ones where one has them, cleaned up or refinished as preferred. And hunting down the correct ones currently incorrect or missing with help from other Zed owners. Stainless steel fixings look shiny and nice no argument from me, but be sure to isolate from metals galvanized or zinc passivated.
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