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gilltech

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Everything posted by gilltech

  1. For which year? They varied.
  2. The clear lenses you ask about are on eBay Australia presently. PS. In your 4 photos, which one is your car, the one with the bumper over-riders or the one without?
  3. Well the sale price must have been realistic for NOS (new old stock) items that are some 50 years old, as there were 49 bids so someone was determined to get them at all costs. If you find a good used set but with the orange lenses then reproduction clear lenses are made here in Australia and available via eBay, so that's an option.
  4. Hmm, neither of those set-ups look nice do they, both look like the add-ons they are. I totally agree with the direction you wish to go! Bear in mind that if you do obtain a pair of the Australian / NZ spec two bulb 260Z units then you will need either the valance corner panels with the cut-outs to house them, or get a template off one of us so you can cut out your existing ones.
  5. I've heard of Zeds with vinyl roofs but never seen one... Over the years I've seen a few classic cars that have come out of Hong Kong and all had rust problems. High humidity, salt air influences, not conducive to longevity. Hopefully your old one has been well rescued but 19 yrs ago they didn't attract the dollar values of recent times with the obvious implications. It would help if you have a record of the VIN.
  6. Yes those for the 240Z are available from the usual USA suppliers. But sounds like Datsunnyit is wanting the valance-mounted two bulb unit. Which was fitted to 260Zs destined for NZ and Australia (and maybe some other markets). IMO a cleaner looking set-up to the various different indicator arrangements on USA, UK and European market cars.
  7. I suspect what you are wanting is the Australian or NZ market 260Z unit (valance mounted) with the two bulbs and clear full lens with smaller orange lens panel behind which provides both a white sidelight and an orange turn indicator, correct? (ie. nothing bumper mounted). To replace the local Italian market arrangement. Would the 260Z unit be legal today on a Italian market 240Z? Best you post an image of what your current Italian-market arrangement is so we can see what you are talking about. Used 260Z sidelight units in this part of the world still in good usable condition are becoming harder to find. All too often the steel lens screws are rusty which makes a real mess of the lens and the housing. I've seen reproduction replacement lenses for sale from time to time though, but don't know where they are made or who by.
  8. Typically the 240Z and 260Z units are different. Turn indicator arrangements varied depending on which market the Z car was sold in and what the local regulations required or accepted for that year of car.
  9. While a few bubbles may be acceptable on a Z purchase as honest and only to be expected 'patina', you know all too well that they breed, mostly out of sight, and an expensive and potentially heartbreaking repair and restoration process is eventually coming your way...
  10. A burn-out wouldn't do that, as PeterAllen says they are pretty strong. But they will bend if they hit something hard enough, I suspect that the car has gone sideways into a kerb or something. Best have a very close look to see if anything else is out of whack. Eyeball and measure the good LH side vs the bad RH side, including checking the top of the body shell strut and the rest of the suspension.
  11. What's it for, a RHD conversion of a LHD car?
  12. Ditto V8Datto, rear swaybar bracket that secures the pivot rubber bushing into the factory swaybar mount (there should be two). May be aftermarket, as looks the same as the ones on the swaybar I got in from a USA supplier for my '74 RS30.
  13. Sure you've got it assembled correctly? Correct slave cylinder? Lubed the adjuster threads? Cable set in the right place? I just use a thin screwdriver to adjust the brake shoes to just off the face of the drum. Then as AndBir says, pull the handbrake lever on and off multiple times and it should fine tune the adjustment if that's even needed. If too much drag on the shoes then back off the adjuster a couple of clicks.
  14. If I were you I'd grab a set off Linton, wouldn't hurt to have a spare or two in case someone scrapes a kerb. Although they're inexpensive to repair as they don't have a clear coat to take off and reapply unlike many other wheels. Although I have seen painted ones. PS. Personally I really like the design, I wish someone would replicate them in say 16", and a tad wider, as there aren't too many tyre choices left in 14" these days. Like what are available in the USA for their muscle cars.
  15. I have some spares but I'm too far away in Qld to be worth the freight. You should be able to find some in Vic, they're pretty common. The very early 260Zs missed out but they were a factory option on the rest, and FWIW were also one of the wheel styles used on the 280ZX.
  16. So they fitted up flares and those very wide wheels without cutting and trimming the guards? I suppose at least that's a blessing.
  17. The factory shock absorber componentry was fitted inside the strut housing, complete with damper oil etc contained by an oil seal in the strut cap. If the strut cap seal started leaking then a new one could be fitted. If the shock itself wore out, or the owner wanted to change the damping to maybe go firmer, it was removed and a self-contained 'cartridge' shock substituted, dropped into place, with its own strut cap to suit. The cartridge could be made by various manufacturers, such as Monroe, KYB, Girling etc and in different grades. And I believe Nissan did the same with cartridges as service parts. To better dissapate heat a cartridge is supposed to be installed with oil around it, rather than just have air. So I don't know why the innards of your shocks are rusty and refusing to budge. They sound pretty bad given your first post was asking about cost of replacement struts. Got a photo?
  18. Are you talking about the original factory shock componentry, or a cartridge insert (shock replacement), that's stuck?
  19. Yes I did wonder as the taillights were a clue for starters. Nice car, good job.
  20. Best use a USA supplier, such as Motorsport Auto the Z Store.
  21. Yes I reckon do that. They're pretty simple to work on. My guess is that the central fuel jets are blocked with residue and corrosion build up after fuel evaporation and from sitting unused and will just need a very careful disassemble and clean of all the orifices. The slides and needles should freely lift up and return down with the overhead spring pressure without sticking. Also make up some new gaskets for them especially for bolting up to the intake manifolds.
  22. The Hitachi flat tops are pretty simple, I wouldn't have thought they'd be too much trouble to get working as long as they are complete. As for the British SUs I had, IIRC I on-sold them to a British car owner as they were slightly bigger than the ones he had so a worthwhile upgrade for him. But 240Z Hitachi round-tops do come up for sale occasionally, as people up-spec to triples or swap in different motors or fuel injection or whatever. My NZ-new early 260Z has the simple mechanical fuel pump and the double metal tube fuel rail, ie. one inlet and one return, with the latter having a restriction formed at its downstream end. Whereas some Australian 260Zs I've seen have a triple tube system and I have no idea what that third tube is for, something to do with emissions or maybe to do with the electric fuel pump which the later cars had?
  23. Yep, as Dave says! Same set-up as came on a spare 260Z motor I once bought. I think it's a case of people bolting on what they can easily get hold of, which are SU carbs from any number of once fairly numerous British cars. As opposed to most likely waiting in vain for a set of Nissan round tops to come available from a written-off 240Z, which would only happen once in a blue moon given the limited number around. Or a 240Z owner going racing and upgrading to triples, which is how I got mine.
  24. Well done! So grab a Haynes or Nissan WSM and it will explain how the flat tops work. Take them apart and clean them. Check the hidden filter screen at the fuel inlet on the side of the carb, that's what tripped me up that time. Or, put your energies into the round tops. I've seen service kits on eBay Australia. Or if no joy then get a pair sent over from one of the USA suppliers. It would help to know what year 240Z the carbs came off, as there were differences. I can't help you with the carb bridge pipe vacuum diaphragm question, my car was NZ-new and didn't have all that emissions stuff that Aus-new 260Zs seem to have.
  25. AFAIK it's the other way around. My early '74 260 has its original switch, same as the one on the right in your picture, with the squarish beige coloured plug. And I have a spare I removed from another early 260, matching same same. My car has those beige coloured plugs throughout its wiring loom. I also have a spare switch I picked up on eBay (from a parted-out 2+2, the year I don't recall, but a later car than mine) and it matches the version on the left in your photo with the bigger style translucent white plastic plug. As you've discovered, they don't interchange, different size, different design entirely. So I think the translucent white plastic plugs came later. I don't know if there are more than the two S30 switch versions, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are, given that Nissan kept tweaking things during the S30 series production.
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