gilltech

Haha! It is a very nice shade of red after all. Good choice. Many many years ago I once saw a red 240Z, its badges removed and with Ferrari decals on it; a hopeful 'chick magnet' presumably.....

So you're saying that both front AND rear brakes are dragging? For the fronts, check you have fitted the 'right' seals. I had that problem and it turned out to be an aftermarket brand that were very fractionally oversize. Tried a different brand and problem went away. For the rears, have you got the auto adjusters set up correctly? They are activated by the handbrake mechanism and can be a bit touchy, not easy to get both sides acting evenly in my experience.

I think you've summed it up very well. Every car and every enthusiast's situation is unique, so no point in going any further when the OP can simply do his own research and figure out for himself whether to take it further or drop the idea.

Not sure why replies are being posted almost 8 months late as it were.....

I have seen them listed on eBay Australia occasionally. But during Covid in Jan 2021 and wanting to get projects progressed while I had some down time I just used a USA supplier via eBay, sounded like it was a Corvette parts supplier who had them in stock. Airmail posted really didn't cost that much. Caution: Just be careful you get the right pair of kits! Ask me how I know... The '70 to '72 is one set, whereas the '73 is different (as in my case, which I eventually deduced after finding out that my carbs were incorrectly kitted with the front one running very very rich). On a '73 the front carb fuel intake valve is a different length/casting height to the one on the rear carb. A Nissan tweak for something to do with the tilt of the engine, apparently, from what I read online. My 2c worth. Hope that helps some. PS. Just checked my purchase history, Including postage ex USA they cost round about A$90 with the then exchange rate.

Dunno what that's off. In what way does it not fit your radiator? The one I have is also two piece and bolts up neatly on a spare radiator I have which came off a late 260Z 2+2. Mine has two fixing points on each side within the shroud itself, not those fingers sticking out and the holes top and bottom on yours. FWIW I think the version I have was also fitted to the early 280ZX (ie. S130), which makes sense given the motor is much the same.

FWIW. My early RS30 has the same radiator as the 240Z, and it's the original part. I once tried a shroud from a later Z (a two-piece plastic item) but it just didn't fit, it was slightly too wide and of course extended downwards too far to suit the taller 260Z radiator.

Or is it time to build a convertible Z...

Wow, what a transformation! Good job, just shows what good old elbow grease and a concerted effort can do.

Yes agreed. Especially with the 260Z, as more electrical features were added for more convenience so the wiring looms became more complex and so used different junction blocks... and looms differed too depending on which features were fitted for which market and when. [So my advice is that if you come across a matching loom for your year of car then buy it just in case you have a melt-down or some PO has butchered yours. Cos the relay assembly in my '74 RS30 looks very different to the one in the image at the start of this thread].

For which year? They varied.

The clear lenses you ask about are on eBay Australia presently. PS. In your 4 photos, which one is your car, the one with the bumper over-riders or the one without?

Well the sale price must have been realistic for NOS (new old stock) items that are some 50 years old, as there were 49 bids so someone was determined to get them at all costs. If you find a good used set but with the orange lenses then reproduction clear lenses are made here in Australia and available via eBay, so that's an option.

Hmm, neither of those set-ups look nice do they, both look like the add-ons they are. I totally agree with the direction you wish to go! Bear in mind that if you do obtain a pair of the Australian / NZ spec two bulb 260Z units then you will need either the valance corner panels with the cut-outs to house them, or get a template off one of us so you can cut out your existing ones.

I've heard of Zeds with vinyl roofs but never seen one... Over the years I've seen a few classic cars that have come out of Hong Kong and all had rust problems. High humidity, salt air influences, not conducive to longevity. Hopefully your old one has been well rescued but 19 yrs ago they didn't attract the dollar values of recent times with the obvious implications. It would help if you have a record of the VIN.

Yes those for the 240Z are available from the usual USA suppliers. But sounds like Datsunnyit is wanting the valance-mounted two bulb unit. Which was fitted to 260Zs destined for NZ and Australia (and maybe some other markets). IMO a cleaner looking set-up to the various different indicator arrangements on USA, UK and European market cars.

I suspect what you are wanting is the Australian or NZ market 260Z unit (valance mounted) with the two bulbs and clear full lens with smaller orange lens panel behind which provides both a white sidelight and an orange turn indicator, correct? (ie. nothing bumper mounted). To replace the local Italian market arrangement. Would the 260Z unit be legal today on a Italian market 240Z? Best you post an image of what your current Italian-market arrangement is so we can see what you are talking about. Used 260Z sidelight units in this part of the world still in good usable condition are becoming harder to find. All too often the steel lens screws are rusty which makes a real mess of the lens and the housing. I've seen reproduction replacement lenses for sale from time to time though, but don't know where they are made or who by.

Typically the 240Z and 260Z units are different. Turn indicator arrangements varied depending on which market the Z car was sold in and what the local regulations required or accepted for that year of car.

While a few bubbles may be acceptable on a Z purchase as honest and only to be expected 'patina', you know all too well that they breed, mostly out of sight, and an expensive and potentially heartbreaking repair and restoration process is eventually coming your way...

A burn-out wouldn't do that, as PeterAllen says they are pretty strong. But they will bend if they hit something hard enough, I suspect that the car has gone sideways into a kerb or something. Best have a very close look to see if anything else is out of whack. Eyeball and measure the good LH side vs the bad RH side, including checking the top of the body shell strut and the rest of the suspension.

What's it for, a RHD conversion of a LHD car?

Ditto V8Datto, rear swaybar bracket that secures the pivot rubber bushing into the factory swaybar mount (there should be two). May be aftermarket, as looks the same as the ones on the swaybar I got in from a USA supplier for my '74 RS30.

Sure you've got it assembled correctly? Correct slave cylinder? Lubed the adjuster threads? Cable set in the right place? I just use a thin screwdriver to adjust the brake shoes to just off the face of the drum. Then as AndBir says, pull the handbrake lever on and off multiple times and it should fine tune the adjustment if that's even needed. If too much drag on the shoes then back off the adjuster a couple of clicks.

If I were you I'd grab a set off Linton, wouldn't hurt to have a spare or two in case someone scrapes a kerb. Although they're inexpensive to repair as they don't have a clear coat to take off and reapply unlike many other wheels. Although I have seen painted ones. PS. Personally I really like the design, I wish someone would replicate them in say 16", and a tad wider, as there aren't too many tyre choices left in 14" these days. Like what are available in the USA for their muscle cars.

I have some spares but I'm too far away in Qld to be worth the freight. You should be able to find some in Vic, they're pretty common. The very early 260Zs missed out but they were a factory option on the rest, and FWIW were also one of the wheel styles used on the 280ZX.