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gilltech

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Everything posted by gilltech

  1. Sorry if getting off topic, but how does one tell the 260Z, 240K and 280ZX gearboxes apart, externally, again? Something to do with the position of the oil filler, or is it the speedo drive? Just curious.
  2. Correct. Which is why lubrication of the base plate to allow the single cylinder, and brake shoes, to react and slide as required is so important. All detailed in the manuals. But, look, if you've got a set of rear brakes off a '77/'78 car to hand then by all means use them, assuming you can recondition or renew the double cylinders. If you haven't, you may struggle to find some, as AFAIK there weren't many late 260Zs sold in Australia. Much easier for the enthusiasts in the USA with their much larger supply of late 280Zs and availability of parts. Unless you're hell bent on having r
  3. Mmm, somewhat debateable I think. Double means there are more parts to go wrong, leak etc. Nothing personal, I just don't believe in rushing to modify stuff before the stock set up is properly installed using good quality parts, adjusted to optimum and assessed. But your call for whatever suits your needs.
  4. The single set up does self adjust, via the handbrake. All works well IMO as long as it is all adjusted correctly, that none of the adjuster parts are damaged or missing, that an idiot PO hasn't dicked around with it, and the various surfaces that need lube have got lube and aren't sticking. Both the factory manual and the Haynes manual spell out what is required.
  5. I've just touched up the paint on mine so I took a close look at it again. I totally agree, someone put some design effort in there.
  6. I had the same some years back, I decided the shoes were more likely for a 240K, couldn't return them so they went in the bin.
  7. I don't understand the issue. On my very early 260 there is just one taillight harness running from right rear to left rear corner, with a square plug to each taillight unit - as per the one in your hand, a wire to the registration plate lighting in between them, and connections to the electric aerial and speaker at the very end. But later Zeds had many different harness wiring plugs to mine, could that harness be out of a later Zed perhaps?
  8. gilltech

    keys

    Nope, it should be two keys - one key for the ignition, and a different key for doors / hatch / fuel filler / glovebox. (Some cars just had a turn knob on the fuel filler, non-locking).
  9. Looks pretty sound. I guess prices are creeping up in NZ too as they are here. Registered, and WOF - which stands for "Warrant of Fitness" and equates to a 'roadworthy' in Australia. A car must have a new WOF every 6 months and can't have registration transferred or renewed without one. The rules are more onerous than here in Qld. The only thing that looks wrong to me are the mirrors. All the NZ 260Zs I've seen that still had factory wing mirrors they were much more rounded in shape than those and also chrome not black. But looks nice, in that colour I'd be proud to own it.
  10. gilltech

    Photo please

    Mine is just the same as AndBir's. It's original and not been messed with. Except it's plain black underseal and doesn't photograph well. The outer wheelhouse lands on that horizontal sill section as per his photo, closing off where yours has a gap. The wheelarch lip section just sort of peters out in a raggedy curve, as you'll be aware it's the outer wheelhouse tucked under the rear quarter panel and a bunch of not-too-flash welds joining them. That's one area that benefits from a general tidy-up during restoration time. Quality restoration work such as the CAF / Wags project r
  11. gilltech

    Photo please

    Suggest you maybe grab a photo from the CAF / Wags restoration guys in the relevant thread. I tried taking a photo of mine but the rear wheel is in the way and my car although un-messed-with in that dogleg area has a coating of underseal to the wheelarch. PS. but all those gaps need to be closed up IMO, such as between the inner and outer wheelarch panels, going by mine anyway.
  12. Now you're really teasing us. Like I suggested before, this is a work of art that's too good to drive. Just imagine the sinking feeling when you find the first stone chip... or first carpark door ding... Fantastic work in any case.
  13. The man is an artisan nothing less. The finished car should immediately be put on the concours d'elegance show circuit and forever more be trailered, not driven.
  14. Absolutely right. Same as for all the Mustangs etc people have been bringing in for years. Although in the US it can be difficult finding much of a paper trail to check whether a said car has in fact spent all its life in the 'dry' state where it has been found versus up in the mountains or over on the coast. (Although a Mustang' VIN and door data tag at least tells which factory the car was built in and which sales location the car was first supplied to, so that's a good start. One can avoid a car built and first sold in the eastern states for example). One thing to bear in mind though,
  15. Looks good. So the car was silver originally? That's a nice red, did the PO tell you what mix he used? Would be handy to know for touch-up purposes.
  16. I just use the tapered end of an artist's wooden handle paint brush jammed in to the disconnected hard line... low tech maybe it is, but also zero cost...
  17. From what I can surmise from the several Z owner's manuals and sales brochures I have, the 'passing light switch' was not fitted to all 260Zs and/or in all markets. One manual I sourced from the USA states the passing switch is 'for Europe'. One brochure lists the 'passing light' under Optional Equipment. Many years ago I replaced the switch lever on my early '74 with one from a later donor car; and it came with the button. But the passing light has never worked; the only effect it has is that with the headlamps on it actually turns them off, so works in reverse if you like. So maybe
  18. A rather less common interior colour? If no luck then find a good clean one of a different colour and vinyl spray it?
  19. Have you looked on eBay? Last time I looked there were a couple of options. All depends whether you want the add-on spoiler that attaches to the factory front valance panels, or the one-piece panel which replaces them entirely as well as providing a spoiler. Lots of different designs of both types have been and gone over the years.
  20. As I recall on this forum back in 2009/2010 there were quite a number of Zed owners wanting to go down the path for what I would call the JDM 'Fairlady Z' look with G noses, the add-on guard flares (necessitating cutting back the rear wheel arches), 'Fairlady' badging, and the hockey stick mirrors, etc. Much chat about positioning of the mirrors, and much disbelief that the JDM mirrors weren't mounted symmetrically! I saved the JDM mirror positioning diagram that was posted on this forum back then, just out of interest. But as to where it originated, and it's accuracy or otherwise, I have
  21. Well, FWIW they look perfectly fine to me, looking at my RS30 / 260Z, those swage lines are indeed a fairly tight radius.
  22. A unicorn I'm afraid. And that's changing, with the cars so sought after now that even rusty junked shells are being re-evaluated.
  23. This is a question for Gav I think. This JDM mirror positioning topic came up on the forum way back in 2009/2010. According to my filed info and dimensions from back then - which I hope are correct - yes, on a JDM (RHD) car the driver side mirror is closer to the front of the car by 3.5cm, and also 2cm in closer to the bonnet/hood. Does that match with what you've got? Gav and others might like to chip in here as I recall there was quite a robust discussion about the matter back in the day, with people unsure which dimensions were 'correct'.
  24. With the steering wheel painted yellow I wonder what the rest of the car it was once on looked like???
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