Jump to content


Donating Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by gilltech

  1. Did this conundrum ever get sorted?
  2. If you have the original carpets then you just take them to an auto trimmer and he will make new replica ones for you. You don't need to go to some specialist auto carpet supplier. Particularly when Nissan made several running changes to the floors so the pattern that the specialist auto carpet supplier has to hand may not quite suit your particular car. Which is what all the griping was about originally with the above mentioned company, and long lead times.
  3. Well finally found time to again test fit the repro front bumper I bought a few yrs back. It came with holes for fitting the rubber strips and over-riders. I bought all new rubber strips at the same time. Its tip to tip inside dimension is 1503mm, whereas my original is 10mm wider. On my initial test fit I had been concerned it was too tight and so had set it aside for another day. This time around, however, after applying lots of protective tape and very gently pushing the panels inwards just a little at the valance/sugar scoop bolt-up joint lines (on my car they tend to bulge there slightly) to gain a few precious mm, I found the new bumper slotted into place better than I'd expected. (It's still too close to the bodywork on the RH end, some more careful massage work is required there. LH end is fine now). My original bumper has no doubt taken its share of knocks, and has already been re-chromed, so who knows how 'true' it is. Years ago the number plate and its brackets had been bent inwards, and my bending the brackets back into place - rather crudely - had stressed the metal and the chrome had crazed so that is why rust has developed. My bad. But the new one is now on to stay! Am quite happy with the result. It wasn't a plug'n'play in my case, took time due to the vagaries of my particular car. I had to slot some of the holes for the fixing bolts of the rubber strips so they would comfortably fit without stress around the curves. (Maybe the rubber had shrunk while sitting in storage). I also slotted the holes for the over-riders so they could adjust to line up better. The bumper came with an extra pair of holes top and bottom and inward of the over-riders, for bumper-mounted turn indicators I presume. Redundant in my case, I will source some chrome blanking plugs. Before its final fit I also painted the back of the new one with a generous coating of silver cold galv to keep it good. My 2c worth FWIW.
  4. Nice colour! Well hopefully someone will recall seeing it around, distinctive enough, you never know your luck. Snap, when my RS30's R200 diff shat itself some decades back (nasty grinding noises, spider gears) I did the same, a R180 with halfshafts from an auto 240K at a wrecker was way cheaper than repairing the R200, and I kept it for several years until I got another R200 and swapped back. I didn't change the moustache bar, just installed longer mounting bolts and spacers as it was just supposed to be a temporary fix (!!!). The higher ratio was a bonus for weekend trips away.
  5. My mistake , you're 100% right, I stand corrected, I looked it up and for the Australian market both auto and manual had the R200 all the way through to Aug.'76 and then both went R180. Not quite the same R200/R180 split in other world markets it seems, hence my confusion. Can't see the logic... As for the OP, any photos? Rego or VIN?
  6. So, red exterior with a green engine bay and a white interior... 240Z driver's door... wire wheels... that narrows it down for sure, anyone?... AFAIK it would have been unusual for an auto 260Z to have a R200 diff.
  7. All the best mate. I admire your tenacity with your Zed.
  8. Very true. From what I've found many suppliers are unaware of the variations across the S30 models. What they offer for a 260Z may suit a 2+2 but not a 2-seater, or an earlier car but not a later one, or vice versa, etc. C.A.R. is sure to know what you need and what's currently available and of what quality. What is in your front struts currently, still the original shocks or a pair of ageing strut inserts?
  9. Be sure to check the length you need - early 260Zs use the taller front strut a la 240Z, whereas later ones - probably most - have the shorter strut.
  10. Best brace the shell well - triangulate - before going any further, you wouldn't want any deformation affecting the window and door opening dimensions or you may have no end of trouble come assembly time.
  11. Is the parts car roof fairly good? I'd be hoping to swap the whole thing in, pillars and all. Rather that than dissecting both roofs and assembling a new one out of bits and pieces.
  12. Bloody hell! Yep that's bad, very bad. So what's the plan, can you cut the whole roof off and replace it with the one from the red parts car?
  13. So where did this concept that the 'Z was designed for America' come from? I have still yet to see any period Nissan advertising material making that claim. What they did do, was ensure that the car could comfortably seat drivers of taller stature than was typically often the case with Japanese cars of the period.
  14. Yes, my advice is to get the parts out and clean everything up the best you can if you want to get best $$$. The less people can see what they'd be getting the more risk they take on themselves so the lower offers you'd get, if you'd get any at all. Make an inventory of what is there and what is missing. Just from the 4 photos I can see a lot is missing, parts which may be lodged inside the car or they may not. When selling anything, presentation and condition is everything. PS. I meant to add, has the car any provenance? Evidence of previous registrations, is there an Aus-new ID plate fixed in engine bay, etc. If there is no evidence or govt records to show that the car was sold new in Australia, or had an import approval as a used car, then it may well be impossible to ever register it. Buyer beware and check before spending $$$ on buying let alone repair $$$.
  15. Motorsport Auto Z Store in the USA, check out their website, very useful source for all the myriad of correct bits and pieces.
  16. Yes the fenders are basically common to both. Although different sales markets dictated whether they had cut-outs for the side indicator and/or fender mirrors or not. The old repro fenders, a few of which may still be around, aren't a perfect fit and need a bit of tweaking to make them sit right. Better to fix what you've got IMO, keep as much of the original metal as you can. Patch panels are available for the lower portion of the guard.
  17. Even if the floors and substructures are repairable I really think it's too far gone to be economic. It will be a massive effort and cost to repair, refurbish or replace everything, all looks very badly weathered and rusty. Much just won't be salvageable. As AndBir says, S30 2+2 parts that were once fairly common are getting really hard to find now. Reproduction parts are limited and expensive for a 2-seater, even thinner on the ground for a 2+2. Sitting outside with no side windows and an open roof (yay! big sunroof!) would have really accelerated the deterioration. As for the engine and gearbox laying in the dirt, well... The owner would be best IMO to at least unload all the parts and photograph them and the bodyshell and make an inventory of all the parts. Then advertise for offers and see what comes of it.
  18. Call me picky. IMO it's more of a resto-mod than a 'restoration', as it's loaded with non-Nissan aftermarket components. What's with the 260Z door card, minus pull handle. Where's the battery gone? Other bits missing. Is that a 240K steering wheel? And why do people omit the rear bumper anyway?
  19. I had the loan of a Volvo 240 in the USA many years ago. Looked like a brick but easily held all our backpacking & camping gear, and actually drove very well indeed. Great memories.
  20. One needs to check the tip-to-tip dimensions against one's own Nissan original. I bought one several years ago as my original, which has already been re-chromed once, has rust breaking out in places. However, I found the new one was too tight across the bodywork at each end, so didn't proceed and it still hangs on the garage wall to this day. Nothing to say that my car is correct of course, that the guards shouldn't be pulled in a bit, although I think its original bumper fits pretty well. I must look at it again though, thanks for the reminder.
  21. Correction! The 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, Fairlady, 432 etc etc, both 2-seater and 2+2, are all of the Nissan S30 family. Others may disagree but my observations over 37yrs of ownership and car club membership are that the 260Z is somewhat better built and more refined in several respects over the 240Z. To each his own. I like them all. Enjoy your purchase, you should have a lot of fun with it.
  22. No A/C? My advice, keep the sunroof. Ha!
  23. A preference of a 240Z vs a 260Z or vice versa can be due to personal taste. 37yrs ago I chose a very early '74 260Z 5-spd 2-seat (a fairly bare bones NZ car) over a couple of '72 and '73 240Zs of similar prices simply because I preferred the later car refinements. As we all know Nissan kept tweaking the cars year after year. IMHO the interior design, the dashboard, console, trims etc all seem far better integrated and make for a nicer cockpit. My 2c worth anyway.
  24. Good luck with the Kia Sportage door seals, I was looking a year back and couldn't find any stock anywhere.
  25. That's what I thought. Not my definition of 'original'. Reminds me of a Zed I went to see many years ago. It was advertised as a 260 2-seat but had 240 panels and parts, an amalgamation of two cars. Wasn't for me.
  • Create New...