orange-Z
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About orange-Z
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These are still available.
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Two E88 Heads for sale Condition as shown in photographs (one has damaged cam shaft) $100 for both (will not be split) Cash only Pick-up only in Samford Valley, QLD.
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Hi Rick. Email address is acameron1991@gmail.com. Cheers Alan
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Hi Orange Z, do you still have all those "Even more 260Z Parts for sale"? I would take them and other stuff I've seen at your site. Just need to get to you? If you have answered, I don't know where it is?
My car runs and just needs all the rubbers all 'round to get on the road.
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See photos for condition. Cam on one head is broken as shown in last photo. $300 for both Pick up Brisbane north (Samford Valley) only with cash payment.
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Front Control Arm Inner Bushing Kit - Whiteline W61946 - $75 Diff Mount Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-1602-BL - $25 Transmission Mount Bushing Kit - 88-716 - $25 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-1108-BL (20mm) - $25 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-1105-BL (18mm) - $25 Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-1104-BL (16mm) - $25 Bump Stop - Prothane 14-1301-BL - $25 Tie Rod End Boots - Prothane 19-1711-BL - $10 Rack and Pinion Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-703-BL - $25 Transmission Cross Member Bushing Kit - Prothane 14-1601_bl - $25 Bushing Lower Arm (rear I think - must be pressed in) 62-200 - $25 pair Steering rack Boot Kit - 62-400 - $25 Pick up Brisbane North (Samford Valley) Only with cash payment
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I don't know if it will fit a 240Z.
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Starter Motor - $100 Alternator - $100 Engine Bay Light - $100 Radiator fan with viscous clutch - $100 Viscous clutch for fan - $50 Brake Master Cylinder - $25 Fuel pump electric - $50 Fuel pump mechanical - $50 horns x 2 - $25 each right side door mirror - $25 cabin mirror with mounting bracket (plastic broken) - $50 2 x window winders (not matching) - $25 for both rear side window latches - $25 windshield fluid bottle and pump (don't know if it works) - $50 Complete engine gasket kit for L26 or L24 - $100 Light and wiper control stalk - $50 Pick up Brisbane North (Samford Valley) only with cash payment
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Thanks Peter. Any luck yet with your sale? Mine is gone now.
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Pair of headlight nose cones with light holders - $300 - SOLD Pair of front bonnet hatches - $100 - SOLD New water pump - $30 New oil pump - $75 New motor mounts (2) - $50 New transmission mount $75 original 1974 model steering wheel - $50 - SOLD Plastic battery pan - $50 Rear drum brake shoe sets (4 shoes per set and 2 sets available) - $25/set Radiator with fan surround - $150 Left rear light set - $50 - Sold All parts pick-up only Brisbane north (Samford Valley) with cash payment More parts coming
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Additional photos
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Vehicle is registered and includes roadworthy Location - Brisbane north Price - see bgsclassiccars.com.au Work done in last 10k km - rebuild transmission, new HD clutch, rebuild front brakes including new pistons, seals, pads and rotors, new tie rods, struts (front and rear), wheel bearings, headlights upgraded to halogen. Includes original tools and jack. Odometer reads 84,500km Near original condition. Starts and runs very well. PM me for additional info.
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Just the front brakes dragging. Could be the seals. They seemed tight when fitting but having not rebuilt calipers before I just assumed that was how it should be. Where did you get the correct seals from? Not looking forward to rebuilding the calipers again.
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Rebuilt the calipers because they started to leak. Also rebuilt the rear drum cylinders. The master cylinder was also replaced some years ago and I think the lines are in the right ports. I just disconnected the lines at the cylinder so it should have been obvious where they connected to. If I move the brake pads away from the rotor with a screw driver the wheel rotates freely but as soon as i drive the car and use the brakes the brakes stay on and wheels don't rotate freely. Is the non-return valve in the master cylinder or in the brake line? Is there a way to test if this is the problem? I could try swapping the lines from the master cylinder but I don't think the rear one is long enough to connect to the front port.
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I have rebuilt the front brakes with new pistons, seals, guide pins, rotors and pads. Now the brakes are binding and overheating. When brakes are applied they do not release enough. Drivers side is worse than the passengers side and when hot the car pulls to left when braking due to the excessive temperature or right side brake. Also get the very hot smell. Pistons and seals were properly lubricated during install. Guide pins are lubricated. Because of the new pads and rotors there is very little clearance in the caliper. Looking for ideas to fix the problem. Thinking of removing the shims from behind the pads but worry that the brakes will be noisy.
