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Posted

Hey J2,

I'm actually working my bonnet also, thankfully no rust so far, but... it did have a front end whack which I have been straightening out. Going to strip the paint off this weekend I think. Good thing about the frame and bonnet separated is that I can get into the places they usually rust, the rear edges and the leading edge (moisture traps). I noticed you painted the whole bonnet with KBS rust seal, are you using a brush?

 

Reason I ask is that the brush leaves brush strokes and when you use a top coat over the top you'll see them I'd imagine? Do you plan to knock it down a bit with sandpaper or leave the brush strokes on the inside and frame?

Posted

Hey J2,

I'm actually working my bonnet also, thankfully no rust so far, but... it did have a front end whack which I have been straightening out. Going to strip the paint off this weekend I think. Good thing about the frame and bonnet separated is that I can get into the places they usually rust, the rear edges and the leading edge (moisture traps). I noticed you painted the whole bonnet with KBS rust seal, are you using a brush?

 

Reason I ask is that the brush leaves brush strokes and when you use a top coat over the top you'll see them I'd imagine? Do you plan to knock it down a bit with sandpaper or leave the brush strokes on the inside and frame?

 

Hi Gav, I have painted lots of areas with KBS rustseal where I will be painting colour as well. I plan to sand the KBS lightly or maybe just course scotchbrite and then I will be using a high fill primer. From previous experience with the high fill primer I believe it will take out any brush marks no problem, then on with a single stage 2K solid colour. I plan to be doing this on a panel or 2 in the next month or so. I will let you all know how I get on.

 

Cheers J2

Posted

Hi Gav, I have painted lots of areas with KBS rustseal where I will be painting colour as well. I plan to sand the KBS lightly or maybe just course scotchbrite and then I will be using a high fill primer. From previous experience with the high fill primer I believe it will take out any brush marks no problem, then on with a single stage 2K solid colour. I plan to be doing this on a panel or 2 in the next month or so. I will let you all know how I get on.

 

Cheers J2

 

Photos look great Jeff, have you though of wet sanding it back to use it as a high fill? I would say if 320 W&D knocks it back, you should see any brush strokes flatten out, if need be maybe some patch areas of high fill where needed. From what I understand of the KBS product, you can apply other paints directly over it.

 

Nice work nevertheless ;-)

Posted

Photos look great Jeff, have you though of wet sanding it back to use it as a high fill? I would say if 320 W&D knocks it back, you should see any brush strokes flatten out, if need be maybe some patch areas of high fill where needed. From what I understand of the KBS product, you can apply other paints directly over it.

 

Nice work nevertheless ;-)

 

Hi John, That was pretty much my plan as well. Give it a sand and knock down any brush marks then undercoat with a DTM primer that has a decent fill, but is not a true high fill. Then lightly sand the undercoat and then I should have a good subtrate to lay down the topcats. I will be onto this soon hopefully with the weather warming up. As always a battle against the clock and balancing family/shed life along the way. I will let you all know how I get on with some nice shiny pics to show hopefully.

Posted

My whole car was spray painted with KBS rustseal.

I would still recommend using a high fill primer as the KBS once sanded even with 500grit still leaves a chalky rough finish that would be seen through the topcoat.

 

Only once i high filled and wet sanded did i get a good enough surface to paint over.

 

The KBS is almost like a powder coated finish in how it sands and appears. I had some areas flake off and delamenate during sanding even on surfaces properly clean and abraded.

Posted

My whole car was spray painted with KBS rustseal.

I would still recommend using a high fill primer as the KBS once sanded even with 500grit still leaves a chalky rough finish that would be seen through the topcoat.

 

Only once i high filled and wet sanded did i get a good enough surface to paint over.

 

The KBS is almost like a powder coated finish in how it sands and appears. I had some areas flake off and delamenate during sanding even on surfaces properly clean and abraded.

 

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Always good to hear from someone who has been there and done that!!!!!

 

Cheers Jeff

Posted

OK! so I had Dad's day at school yesterday morning, so I took the whole day off work and after spending some quality time with my 2 girls at school I got a little bit of time in the shed before I had to go and do the school pickup. I will let the pics do the talking.

 

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Gave the kbs coated area's a sand with 320 to knock down any brush marks, then deoxidined the whole top of the bonnet, then neutralised with fresh water before giving a wax and degrease. I finally lock it up in some Valspar DTM2035. needs plenty of filler work in the ares where I had to do rust repairs in the rear LH and RH quarters but that's what you get sometimes when your a middle aged inexperienced fabricator. No adhesion problems to the kbs so far.

 

Cheers Jeff

 

 

Posted

So you'll add filler over the undercoat?

 

Yes Gav that is the plan. It is a very controversial subject. The body filler I'm using (3M platinum plus) states it can be used on painted substrates whereas some others I looked at do not. I have read and seen plenty of "professionals" use filler over this primer and Epoxy primer. I think for a DIYer it is impractical to always do the direct to metal and I prefer to get protection onto bare metal and then do my filling repairs. Like I said it is a controversial topic, but this is my chosen method after much research and deliberation. I will let you all know if I have any issues.

 

Cheers Jeff 

  • Administrators
Posted

haha controversial indeed. I understand completely about getting bare metal into some kind of paint / protection otherwise you end up chasing your tail.

 

I think older filler products were not as good as new ones. My tafe teacher told me how a sales guy was doing a demo of their new product for the school and he showed how you could apply modern fillers on top of clear coat without issue.

 

So I think it very much comes down to the type of product you're using. The thing I don't like about using it directly on bare metal is that body filler can absorb water and lead to rust underneath (if not sealed / applied correctly). I saw some evidence of this when I stripped my bonnet on 1 or 2 spots.

 

So as you say it is up for debate and in fact that's just another reason I like lead fill where feasible / practical. Over the plastic stuff.

 

Interested to see how you go.

Posted

Jeff, really making this bullet proof as long as the Valspar EP adheres, looking forward to hearing about the overall result ;)

Posted

Good work Jeff. I have been applying standard body filler over epoxy primer too, however I scuff the primer with sandpaper first to give it a good key to stick to. I likewise am not a fan of filler on bare metal. Cheers

Posted

3M platinum plus is good stuff, very fine finish and not as pourous as the Upol i was using before. I used it over scuffed primer that was applied over KBS. Been a year since painted..so far so good.

Posted

Good work Jeff. I have been applying standard body filler over epoxy primer too, however I scuff the primer with sandpaper first to give it a good key to stick to. I likewise am not a fan of filler on bare metal. Cheers

 

 

3M platinum plus is good stuff, very fine finish and not as pourous as the Upol i was using before. I used it over scuffed primer that was applied over KBS. Been a year since painted..so far so good.

 

Thanks for the feedback Lads. Again always good to hear from others who have already been there and done that with success, also helpful for others I suspect. 

 

Cheers Jeff

Posted

I like your style Jeff. I have been trying to come to a decision on the best method to follow with the coatings on my project. I decided a few weeks ago after talking to a few "experts, professionals and some enthusiasts" that the prep and paint process is like politics. People want to tell you their way is the only way and if you don't follow them it just won't work and there are a few options, but no sausage sizzle.

I have been a fan of your direction for some time as it just seems logical for what we a doing on a lengthy build with down time. I'll be taking your lead.

Jeff

Posted

People want to tell you their way is the only way and if you don't follow them it just won't work and there are a few options, but no sausage sizzle.

 

 

We're having a sausage sizzle today at work. I'm going to eat 3 of them. Just saying.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have been keeping very quiet about your build. As you mate, I'm a bit biased about all the skill you have and the hard work you have put in, not only on your early Zed but all the help you have given me. But where is the latest progress report?. What are we going to drive to see Kato kid,s BMW powered beast.

Posted

I have been keeping very quiet about your build. As you mate, I'm a bit biased about all the skill you have and the hard work you have put in, not only on your early Zed but all the help you have given me. But where is the latest progress report?. What are we going to drive to see Kato kid,s BMW powered beast.

 

Thanks Vaughn, as your mate I will happily take your biased compliments. As for the last question, that's easy we take your 240 and compare the colour match. when I actually get something decent done I will post an update, been a bit slow going with family life getting in the way a bit of late.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

So I have a bit of time in the shed this week after a family holiday to the Gold coast last week. Work makes me take a minimum of 2 weeks LSL at a time so shed time it is.

 

The inside of the floor has taken a long while to get to this stage as the previous owner had put a brush on black bituminous type product all over it. There has been lots of heat gun and scraper action and a lot of wire wheel work to get to this stage. This pic is after giving it a final once over with wax and grease remover and a scotch brite pad.

 

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This next pic is after a thorough degrease and acid etching, now it is all ready to apply KBS rust seal, hopefully I will get that done tomorrow and have the completed pics tomorrow night.

 

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The floor has some previous rust repairs which whilst somewhat agricultural seem to have stood the test of time and there is some pitted rust in patches, I had been tempted to replace the floors but in the end I decided not to as I actually like the fact that they are the original floors. I believe after being treated and painted with KBS rustseal they will out last my lifetime which is what I set out to do with this shell from the beginning, hopefully I prove myself right. New floors probably would have been quicker!!!!!!!!

 

 

Posted

That's some good wheelin'. Are the patches butt welded or lap welded? Can't tell from my phone. I like to keep as much original metal as possible too :)

Posted

That's some good wheelin'. Are the patches butt welded or lap welded? Can't tell from my phone. I like to keep as much original metal as possible too :)

 

I think they are butt welded but I think the steel used was quite a heavy gauge versus the original which therefore can make it look like they were lap welded and the welds were not ground down either. I chose not to grind them back as once they are covered in sound deadener and carpet we aren't going to see them anyway. Having said that I am still weighing up if I will paint the inside in body colour or just leave it in the gloss black.

 

Today's pics, only got 1 coat down unfortunately.

 

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Posted

2nd coat now done.

 

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Had a little bit of paint left over so got the cross member topside got painted as well.

 

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One of my other projects that has been taking up some of my time.

 

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Still waiting for new decals to arrive from the UK to make it look something like this

 

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