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From what I found the door seals (ie from Clark Rubber etc.) that replicate the look of the Kia Sportage seals are made from a firmer and thicker rubber and may result in issues with closing the doors.

It would be interesting to see what sort of electric motor and battery bank would be needed to convert a Zed to electric only with the requirement for some performance and moderate range. They are now converting minis : https://autoweek.com/article/green-cars/classic-minis-will-go-electric-125-mile-range

Having removed the inner door belting which is held on with staples I was not looking forward to having to reattach the new strips. I have decided the best option is to use some 3M high strength double sided automotive adhesive tape, it is rated for both in / outside use and can withstand high (sun heated metal type) temperatures. Anyone used these types of tapes on cars?

Not sure what others are using to replace their worn out sway bar link bushes however, I found that the Holden VU VX VY V2 WH WK 6/2000-2004 Rubber Stabiliser bushes seemed a similar match in thickness, rubber material and pin hole diameter but somewhat wider. So will see how they go. Preferred these to the polyurethane options available as I hear these can get chopped up in time. What the old ones looked like :

You could save all of this weight by using the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulating spray on coating as a stone chip type coating instead of the much heavier acoustic coatings - it weighs almost nothing due to the microscopic ceramic sphere in the coating.

Radiator recored, more expensive than a cheap alloy one off eBay but probably more reliable: As a FYI : The recore cost $500 and I had it done at Eastern Radiator Service in Boronia, Vic.

Well wrapped in cling wrap or the sneaky option hidden under a bag of frozen potato wedges is best

Not sure if it was just a coincidence however, when I could not get the ball joint off the steering knuckle arm it eventually came out after I put it in the freezer for 24 hours.

As far as I know my brother in law (as the only previous owner) had never had the rear or front suspension off the car. It appears the R200 is longer hence the change : http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm "Mustache Bars: See Item #2 in drawing above. (AKA - Differential Case Mounting Bar-Rear) There are three different types of mustache bars used in the 240/260/280Z's. The early Z cars used a flat mustache bar (70/71), when the rear end was moved further rearward with the beginning of the 72 production run, the mustache bar was offset rearward and could thus be described as having an offset. The mustache bar for the R200 found in the 280Z's was further offset by moving the mounting points on the subframe rearward, it is stronger and had larger holes for mounting the R200's larger mounting studs." Given the USA went to a 280Z then this applies to our 260Zs

As far as I know my brother in law (as the only previous owner) had never had the rear or front suspension off the car.

As this is a 260Z with a R200 diff maybe this is why Datsun changed the mustache bar orientation. If it was around the other way then I cannot see how the front diff mount & diff insulator would line up.

Yep, I understand they changed the relative position of the mustache bar and the link mount braces from the 240Z to the 260Z - if this is what you are referring to? I thought I had put it back exactly (minus the redback spider nests) as it was in the photos prior to disassembly - everything seems to line up re diff mounts etc. Although I do not see any reference to this change in the Service Bulletin Vol.197 issued Nov 1973.

With a nice added benefit of the 123Tune+ distributor being able to be disabled as an Antitheft system by a PIN code?

Then you will like this episode : great old building with lots of different old cars including an old V12 Lambo (dual triple webers) and @ 26mins a brief look at 72 240Z.

Or from Rob at the ZFactory : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seaford/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-260z-outer-door-handles-a-pair-/1199105846 (as a price comparison)

From memory he had both knees replaced when he was 80yo so he got good use out of them and they never gave him any trouble.

Glad to hear it, my father in law had the same and came back better than ever and he lived to be 102.

I have not had it back in the car with the engine running however from past experience the radiator looked like it would not work optimally. Whilst not shown in the photo, there are patches of fins that are disintegrating/crumbling when touched.

If you are looking for the 303 paint colour in 2 pak then you may want to try one of The Body Shop Paint Supplies outlets, I dropped into the one in Bayswater and they said they had the mix formula and could supply it in 2 pak.

Took the radiator off to be recored and seems it has already been done previously with a Natrad 3 core designed for a Holden Torana etc.

More small steps: Replaced the clutch thrust bearing Flushed and then filled/bled new brake master cylinder and the brake lines Sprayed the floor pans, front wheel arches (inside front fenders) and transmission tunnel with two coats of Lizard skin sound deadener, then sprayed three coats of Lizard Skin ceramic thermal "insulation" on the floor pans and transmission tunnel. Spray painted just the transmission tunnel grey to match the rear floor pan area.

Sprayed "Lizard Skin" sound deadener on the underside of the 260z yesterday and followed it up with two coats of the lizard skin thermal coating. Myself and the carport area ended up peppered with overspray as it could only be done outside and there was some wind now and then.

Good to see Jon (and Gina) back - have they rebuilt their Targa car or now using another?

Looks to be an "equal length" type header which is best for exhaust scavenging. Does not appear to be an "equal length" type header. Equal length header exhaust scavenging is described here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWTARjxiqlo

It will be much easier to remove both if you have an "engine leveler" : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Professional-Quality-Engine-Leveller-for-Ute-Engine-Cranes-905KG-Capacity/231955363542?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649