AndBir

You may find that getting a bracket made up is the better option : https://www.vintageair.com/brackets/?subcat1=Universal&subcat2=Compressor&subcat3=Adapters and Universal Brackets

The attached file shows the contents of the Nissan Service Bulletin (Nov 1973, Vol.197) and implies Nissan saw the 260Z as just a modified 240Z and this Bulletin outlines the changes Nissan had made by November 1973, no doubt others would have followed. Dat260ZModsServiceBulletinVol197Nov1973.pdf

How handy are you with rust removal or what are you prepared to spend to have all of the rust removed?

It is from the Nissan Service bulletin Vol.197 which outlines the changes from the 240Z introduced in the 260Z - so they may have made some more by 1977. Here is the engine bay wiring loom diagram - may or may not help you.

As PB mentioned, the Black-yellow stripe wires are for the interlock switch.

Not sure if these have been put on this topic before : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seaford/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-door-trims-new-a-pair/1230796264 Datsun 240z Door Trims New a pair $680 Seaford, VIC Datsun HS30 240Z Door Trims black New After market

Looks to be cheap for those wanting panel cuts? 240z Datsun $1,500 Bentleigh, VIC https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bentleigh/cars-vans-utes/240z-datsun/1234656539https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bentleigh/cars-vans-utes/240z-datsun/1234656539 Up for sale is my 73 240z rolling shell with front end damage (driver’s side). The car will come as pictured, still retaining the full set of wheels, less Topy, rebuilt diff with less than 3000 miles, suspension etc. The car is not on any written off register if you want to repair it or can be used as a donor car for the rear end or perfect roof. This shell has a lot going for it.

Popped up very briefly on Gumtree today, was this really a 1975 240Z?

Thanks, my main focus is on removing corrosion on the metal pins/sockets as I recently purchased a used hazard switch and found the coating on the pins was preventing the multimeter from detecting a circuit had been made when the switch was turned on. Using Vinegar cleaned them up a bit and I got a circuit - so the switch works.

Looking good :

Just after any recommendations from Z owners as to the best way they have found to clean the electrical connectors (pins/sockets in the wiring loom plugs) on their cars? A Google search brings up various contact cleaners/lubricants as well as vinegar and wire brushing etc. Also, do people then apply some of the dielectric "grease" to help prevent corrosion and maintain a better connection?

Yep, maybe when you sorted out the cold air box you losened the wiring around the coil or distributor and the backfire jolted it enough to cut off power to one of these areas?

I saw you can also use these ^^^ for the inner rear hatch seal - yes, it is not quite long enough so adding the off cut(s) from the doors will fill the gap along with some 3M rubber glue at the joins.

As I am sure many of you purchase items online and therefore have items delivered by AusPost I thought it would be a good idea to let people know of a scam/phishing attempt I recently recieved. You get a text message that WILL join your other REAL AusPost messages and as such appear to be genuine, the scam/phishing is outlined on (the real) AusPost website here : https://auspost.com.au/about-us/about-our-site/online-security-scams-fraud/scam-alerts

This may also be an option as it appears carbuilders may no longer supply Lizardskin : https://www.carbuilders.com.au/bully-rubber-liner-paint-colours I'm not sure how people feel about "sticking" something to their inner panels however maybe an adhesive heatshield type product would also help (the heavy duty one) : https://www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield~845

You could look at applying a "bed liner" type product - I used the "Lizard Skin" brand which comes as an acoustic or thermal type product primarily for the underside of the car body but would help in minimising issues from stone impacts on the guards.

Got to love the sound of this :

Was not sure where to post this photo of some Zeds but though it might fit here :

Seems that in October each year people decide to sell their 240Z / 260Z - must be a Spring cleaning impulse (or on instructions from SWMBO who is in spring clean mode?).

I am sure mine still does, may have to look at doing an oil change as well :-)

Here is a link to a seller of the OEM rear lca bushing kit : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-REAR-CONTROL-ARM-TRANSVERSE-LINK-BUSHING-KIT-OEM/182821241949?hash=item2a90fec45d:g:4loAAOSwCmNZ3PTe Also browse their store for other Z items you may need, I have purchased from them before and their prices seem competitive compared to other sellers.

Unless you go aftermarket urethane (nolathane/prothane etc. etc.) then you will not find a kit as such. I put new "rubber" ones back in mine as (other than the steering) I feel the OEM type were made to suit the application especially the suspension - hence having to tighten the lower control arm bolts holding the bushes when the vehicle is on the ground and loaded with 2 people and a full tank of fuel. PS: The MSA website has some good advice regards still using some rubber bushings in certain areas : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4100K

Yep, ordered a couple of the plugs coming off the steering column multi switches as I want to tap into the wiring without chopping up the existing stuff.

mikuni solex 40mm triple carbs https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mikuni-solex-40mm-triple-carbs-240Z-260Z-240K-C210/233374757620?hash=item36563832f4:g:6eoAAOSwijBdrBPu

A video that may provide some further advice for part of the rebuild process :