AndBir

I took some pics of my 1973 made (1974 complianced) 260Z door inner workings as shown below - may or may not help?

Well some progress has been made as time permits. All the front axle & steering components are back in place after being painted and ball joints replaced (lower and steering) Spray painted much of the underbody forward of the fuel tank Cleaned up all the running gear and spray painted as needed Replaced the diff front pinion oil seal Replaced the front diff insulator / mount Replaced the inner rear control arm rubber bushings with OEM parts Managed to get it all back up under the car and bolts torqued up as per specs (all except the big ones securing the rear inner control arm bushes as these have to be done when the car is at its running weight with wheels on the ground)

Datsun 260z 2+2 Auto $3,000 5 kook st, tanunda (South Australia) https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/tanunda/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z/1202390022 1975 Datsun 260z 2 2 It’s been sitting for a while and have no time to work on it The car starts but would need a bit of work to get it running and driving we’ll There is rust, but does come with the appropriate repair panels Swap will be considered

Unfortunately holes for speakers have been cut into the side panels and there is some other damage : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bowral/other-automotive/datsun-240z-interior-plastic-trims-180/1201657082

Another option if you have to replace the brake hoses and you find the nuts seized and heat / WD40 etc does not help (and assuming you can get access) you can use an angle grinder to cut off the brake hose fitting in a way that you do not damage the nut or the brake line flare. You need to use the thinnest steel grinding/cutting disk you can find and then start your cut just behind the hex head of the brake line hose (shown in photo below). Work your way down and around the fitting carefully and you should be able to save the brake line nut and flare.

Yes, unfortunately the designers left a gap at the top (between the fender and body & splash shield) and the small "mud" flap at the bottom may not remain fully sealed either over time. Both these gaps will allow accumulation of dirt etc behind the splash guard.

I ended up using a D-Section seal from Clark Rubber for the splash guard to fender seal and fender to body seals. As mentioned on the older posts the other EPDM rubber extrusions should be suitable the choice of which one may depend on what gap you have.

From memory they quoted the car had the original factory markings however it seems as part of the restoration they "lost" these and then recreated the factory paint markings - how "correct" is doing that?

Maybe you could look at sourcing the replicas of these if enough people show an interest?

K&N Filters : $91.96 each (after discount) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-Custom-Racing-Air-Filter-56-1350/162420526505?hash=item25d1048da9:g:SLwAAOSwLjRa9LOt:rk:1:pf:0

Did not know that. Have you tried this company/brand: http://www.dixcelaustralia.com.au/search Eeeek - maybe not I just saw their pricing!

How much different are the 260z rotors? The diameter seems the same : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-260Z-S30-1973-1978-FRONT-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA325-PAIR/400685178545?hash=item5d4ab29eb1:g:~OcAAOSwWHBZ-~vn:rk:4:pf:0

Same with me - since the new software upgrade.

I think this a video of the rebuild :

Maybe when the bonnet was up it got caught in a big gust of wind - this can throw out the alignment.

I'm interested to know (other than the extra pearl) what colour formula you used to reproduce the 303 colour? I have seen reference to PPG code 44968 and also a Glasurit Line 55.

This looks to be the 303 emerald green metallic : https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Datsun-260Z-1975/OAG-AD-15957221/?Cr=6

I like the gearbox oil filler next to the gearstick - as long as you are careful not to spill any!

Keep an eye on this seller on ebay, the shipping cost may drop to about US$40 : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Xenon-3124-Air-Dam-/401298880085?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0

Yep, no rust visible. Some other photos.

Been a while but back at it last month. Having seen the condition of the front ball joints and the steering rod ball joints decided to take it all off. Moved onto the ball joints which were just as bad No rubber left on any of the ball joints - so all are in the process of being replaced. I did find that when removing one of the front steering knuckles from the strut that the 44mm o-ring was missing so something else to sort out. Having seen the accumulated oil/dirt in the transmission tunnel and at the front of the rear diff I knew the rear gearbox and front diff pinion oil seals were stuffed and so I had to drop out the rear suspension and diff to do a clean up and get better access to the diff. Diff out and underbody cleaned with Marine Clean and high pressure water spray. Seems the application of the underbody stone chip spray was somewhat haphazard?

Hmm, good to know if I get to the point of having to replace my spindle pin bushes and damage the pins getting them off. I know when I got a quote for the engine, gearbox and diff mounts it was still cheaper to get them from the USA (even with postage costs added).

You may find this of interest (scroll down to the Datsun 240/260z version): http://www.boiperformance.com.au/cold-air-box-intake- Air Box triple DCOE Aud $630.00

Unfortunately it appears USA Z parts suppliers are probably the only option.

Yes you can buy from PPCCo who are in Aust, or via their ebay store or you may find Eastwood products at some paint shops. I sourced some of mine from PPCCo and some I ordered via my closest paint shop in regional Victoria who had some Eastwood products but not all.