AndBir

Individual plugs here : http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors

Dave has stopped rebuilding the combo switches however he has produced some videos to show what he did : https://www.youtube.com/user/DatsunDave07/videos?view=0&sort=dd&shelf_id=3

I'm in east gippsland (about 5 hours drive from Melbourne - I will PM you.

Ordering a Kia Sportage front door weatherstrip tomorrow - so let me know if you are interested.

Very very nice, very jealous!!....

No idea how accurate it was however, I used a dB app on my table to "measure" the exhaust sound level at idle (1m @45 deg) and it showed ~80dB.

On a 2 seater the KIA sportage door seals leave about 30cms "excess" so on a 2+2 it will be too small. With this in mind if you want to use the KIA ones you will need to purchase 3 of them and probably use the 3rd one to make up the shortfall on the door sill area of each side.

I am going to purchase another KIA Sportage door seal to use for the rear hatch seal and wondered if anyone was interested in combining an order to save on postage? Part Number : 0K01858760B (0K018-58760B) · Part Name : WTHSTP-FRT DOOR · Model Name : SPORTAGE 94-02 * Some parts are compatible with other models. · Manufacturer : HYUNDAI / KIA GENUINE PARTS

Time for you to visit Bothaville in the Freestate : http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/03/the-datsun-nissan-heritage-museum-youve-never-heard-of/http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/03/the-datsun-nissan-heritage-museum-youve-never-heard-of/

Exhaust fitted, 2 1/4" pipe 4" resonator 4" x 9" rear muffler

On its way for the 4 hour round trip to get an exhaust system fitted.......

Thanks, I will give that a go. I thought about using the tape on the tapered flange of the sensor that mates up with the thermostat housing however using it on the thread sounds better.

Back on the job again determined to get it running. Connected all the radiator / heater hoses and filled with coolant. Removed spark plugs / power from coil and turned the engine over to confirm there was oil pressure - all good. Connected up the fuel lines (to filter,pump and carbs) and spent quite some time getting fuel from the tank through to the carbs. Decided to use the old fuel rail with a closed loop fuel supply to the Webers. This also allows the fuel return line to remain active. Replaced spark plug and power to the coil. Test started engine and it fired up but only remained running while the key was in "Start" position but not when returned to "Run". Determined that I had not bridged the black - green wires that previously went to the old ballast resistor (now removed). Good news the tacho seems to work OK with the new high energy Bosch electronic distributor. Once this was all done the engine started and ran nicely (https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2iyeq4fni4os17/IMG_7376.MOV?dl=0) however there is a small leak of coolant from the temp sensor below the thermostat. I am not keen to tighten it up much more as previously I saw a cracked thermostat housing probably from overtightening the temp sensor - any suggestions as to fix this leak?? Installed the Xenon front air dam and bolted on the front indicators and bumper bar.

Or one of (the first one really) these : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sharon/cars-vans-utes/2-x-datsun-260z-2-2/1227193294

triple dellorto 45 & manifold Starting bid : $1000 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/triple-dellorto-45-datsun-l24-l26-l28-240z-260z-Weber-mikuni/264447203384?hash=item3d92481838:g:7rUAAOSwS-FdaHXN

So without the doors and rear hatch it is difficult to see if the whole chassis is buckled as may be indicated by the "dent" in the rear quarter and the small one above the rear window?

260Z - 2 seater $16,000 negotiable https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/northmead/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-seater/1225391320 Selling my resto project - 260z For the most part this car is in very good condition for its age. There are some areas in need of attention. I currently have cut a section out of the passenger side floor to be replaced but have not had the time to finish this repair. The engine is an rb30 from a Holden VL. This conversion was done professionally before I purchased it. I also have a L28 that is stripped down in pieces to go with the car. I have purchased Skillard door skins, as I gave up in finding good condition original ones. I put a 240Z wood steering wheel on. And purchased an Optima battery in the last 12 months. The car start and does drive, but I believe there is still more work needed to improve the driveability. I'm sure there's things I've may have missed but if you are keen and would like to arrange a viewing. Get in touch and I'll be happy to answer questions. This will be a great project for someone that is dedicated and is handy enough to carry out the remaining restoration. The end result will be amazing. I have no doubt. My price is 16k but will to negotiate a little. I'm not letting it go in any hurry so please dont be silly with offers.

Thought this may work but maybe only for Webers/Dellorto? : http://www.bitsofitaly.com/cold-air-box-intake

Yep, the number plate says it all

From the link : Lot closed - Winning bid:$30,500 (25 bids)

Three Italian 48 DCOE Webers https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/melbourne-cbd/collectables/webers-three-italian-48-dcoe-webers-donington-auctions/1224274448

So whilst it said NO RESERVE it did not sell? Now on eBay as "Buy it now" for $35,000

Re the Bailey Channel, the Rare Spares replacement bailey channel does go the whole way round the window channel. The "in door" channel had a felt / fiber type material (at least it was on my 260Z) :

Yep, not an area that is normally seen, hidden below the washer bottle. Hard to see clearly on my photo:

Not sure if it changed, but on my 1974 260z it is the lower one. The top one looks to be for the bonnet release cable.