AndBir

Probably better to go for this one at $43,000 ? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/chermside/cars-vans-utes/1973-datsun-240z-sports-5-speed-manual-coupe/1256153334 `````` DATSUN 240Z COUPE 5 SPEED MANUAL MATCHING NUMBERS ENGINE VERY ORIGINAL. `````` VIN HS30103611 9/1973, Datsun 240z Coupe, 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Matching Numbers Original 2.4 Engine, Original Hitachi Twin Carburetors, Factory Air Box. This Datsun Has Had Very Little Use For Many Years And Still Retains Many Of The Original Features, Starts Easily, Runs And Drives, Suit Restoration Or Drive As Is.

Hopefully not too much white powder on the parts to trigger Aus. customs interest

Please can you let the forum know what they are like when they arrive (some photos of the parts would be good as well).

Found this table showing an OER setup for engines with cylinder capacities of 400-450ccs

Thanks Peter, I appreciate the extra detail.

Crikey, it must have been parked opposite a surf beach :-(

Thanks, that looks the go - I will give it a try

Hi Peter, I am interested in how you made/attached your heat shield for the carbs - any tips you can pass on would be appreciated. Thanks, Andrew.

From your AFR plot you are going too rich at higher revs so you might need to change your emulsion tube.

What size chokes have you got in your triples? EDIT: I read your wordpress blog and see you have 34mm chokes so that is not the issue. Maybe a trip to see Richie at Allcraft Automotives is needed to sort it out?

An interesting article for diagnosis of the possible cause of brake squealing : http://www.dixcelaustralia.com.au/brake-literature/brake-squealDixcel Australia --- Brake Squeal.pdf

Seems to be a family trait : https://autoresto.com.au/ also in Malaga

Not sure if you know you will need these? : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sydney-city/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-260z-rocker-sill-rust-repair-panels-lh-and-rh-/1255195195

I thought I saw the Z Factory in Melbourne advertising carpets both on a roll and made to fit with bound edges, maybe contact Rob and check : http://www.zfactory.com.au/contact.html Edit : Here is the advert : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seaford/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-260z-carpet/1242679129

Rob at the Z Factory has these in stock and they seem to be very good replicas of the originals :

OK, I have spent too long reading and realise that the literature out there covers many generations of Weber DCOE carbs and as such you need to be careful interpreting what is relevant to the model of Weber DCOE carb you have. I expect most people with 45mm Webers will have either the 152 or more recent 152G DCOE models (made in Spain)so if looking to get the idle "tuned" on these then as a starter : 1) Adjust your tappet clearances. 2) Adjust your idle timing to reflect what cam you have 10 btdc for stock, 12-14 BTDC for mild cams etc. 3) i) For the 152 model you will likely need to drill an additional progression hole as per this post : 3) ii) For the 152G models, ignore the literature that references adjusting the idle speed screw by 1/4 or 1/2 etc. turns - just ensure the throttle plate edge is aligned so that it covers the first progression hole as shown in this video : You can then move onto adjusting the idle mixture screws as per the methods in the literature and then moving onto changing your jets emulsion tubes etc. to suit your engine and type of driving.

Likewise on a 74 260z. I found the length of the wires to help along with the wires going to the coil were taped up together. Not sure if this helps:

Other than not directly referencing the position of the throttle plate at idle this seems the most complete DCOE reference : https://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/docs/Hammil/Power Tuning Webers V1 (text search).pdf

Interesting to see what is visible via the internal panel circular cut out? I used the flash/camera of a phone to get a picture.

Before you do bin it, check what cylinder head is on the L20 as it my be one of the ones that are good for modified L6 engines.

If rust has not been previously cut out then consider this new supplier for replacement panels etc : https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/ Keep an eye out for feedback on a members order from this supplier :

My preference would be to cut out the bottom of the rail leaving the (generally) undamaged sides in place. Then treat any rust, apply primer/undercoat and paint and then weld in a new bottom section. Should come up looking like new.

That seems to be the problem, as there are differing views on doing an adjustment of the idle speed screw after adjustment of the idle mixture screws which would result in the throttle valve moving off the 1st progression hole. I did invest in that synchroniser, can't imagine how you could balance the carbs otherwise although you do see some "interesting" methods on the odd YouTube video.

From the copious amount of reading I have done it appears one of the most critical initial aspects to get correct idle settings is to ensure the throttle plate is positioned such that it is in front (ie covering) of the first progression hole - easier to do with the DCOE152G (4 hole) carbs. Most discussion mentions "adjusting the idle speed screw ¼ to ½ turn in after contact with lever" - I am unsure if this results in the throttle plate being positioned correctly wrt the first progression hole or not. Interested to hear how owners here have completed their initial set up of their triple dcoe webers? Throttle plate position at idle setting Edit : Seems that the Weber Tuning Manual outlines the correct throttle plate position which is shown as A below. B will result in a flat spot on initial acceleration C will result in a rough idle not resolved by changing the idle mixture screw position.

Seems Supercheap and Autobarn have also cut their prices on this.