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RAP260

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RAP260 last won the day on July 19 2018

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About RAP260

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/31/1972

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  • Location
    Toowoomba
  • Tagline
    Robert

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  1. I'm happy to take a photo of mine, if you like. But as stated above, it probably won't solve the underlying issue.
  2. I run HS6's. Bought mine new from SU midel. At the time it was a much easier, and cheaper option, than getting the old original SU's rebuilt. Parts, needles ect, are super easy to source locally. I had to ditch the original throttle linkage setup, and go with a cable, a superior option in my view. And also found the old choke cable ( solid core cable), didn't work very well with the choke mechanism, so I converted that to a stranded cable. That has its own issues, but was a better solution.
  3. A little disappointed to be honest. I was hoping it would be mediocre looking, under powered and generally uninspiring....... Bugger...... now I want one.
  4. Do I have to remove the traverse link spindle? I see it's possible with the 280z, to remove the strut without doing that. Edit : Through trial and error I discovered it is possible. But as this was my first time doing this, I learnt a couple of valuable lessons. It took a lot more force, than I initially thought reasonable, to push down the A-Arms. Was a little hesitant initially. And secondly, I had to remove the handbrake mounting bracket, as it limited the amount of travel possible. After that they basically fell out.
  5. It's an L26. Mild cam and ported. I always put the lack of top end down to the carbs only being 40mm. Just interesting to hear others mention this as an issue with the L series. Unfortunately I didn't have an AFR gauge when I owned the webers, so I was most likely not getting the best out of them. And I wasn't really confident which direction to take. By comparison, now that I can assess the AFR, I just received my 4th set of SU needles....God bless the Haystack needle app..... Lol.
  6. I'm interested in how Peter solved this problem also. But I'll share my solution. The heat shielding looks very similar to what I used when I had triples . ACL Heat Shield. http://www.autoxcel.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=140 I made use of the existing holes in the webers to basically suspend mine below the carbs. I used threaded rod, worked a treat. Refer to the attached picture. Had it fixed at 3 points. Hope this is of some help.
  7. We'll, this discussion is very interesting. When I had triple webers ( 40mm ), I had this exact issue ( my first experience of the L6 engine ) . I looked around the Web, obviously not well enough, and found no obvious answer. I even have a post on here somewhere, where I mentioned this. It started bothering me because I thought there was an issue with my engine / webers. Fitted the HS6 conversion, and it will now pull all the way to the top, no issues. And it gets stronger as the revs build. But my bottom end has suffered greatly.
  8. Looking fantastic Peter. Love how it sits. Your running kdrs-09 and kdfl-04 springs, with the shorter strut tophat / insulator on the rear, correct? Cheers, Rob P. S. Yea, you can't beat a cable. I'm using them on my HS6's, so smooth.
  9. So I now at least understand why the tacho works during cranking. The G/W wire provides power directly to the Tacho during cranking, from the ignition. The point of the B/W wire seems to be providing power during normal running?? On closer inspection the wire I thought was B/W was actually B/Y. Which probably explains my issue. I've decided to pull apart the wiring harness, in the engine bay. As I now suspect the original B/W has been replaced by the L/W. Which I had running the Tacho previously ( with a resistor ). This wire is clearly a different gauge / quality , but it has the
  10. All input helps , thank you. My connections are currently ...... Agricultural, to say the least. But should be functional, in my previous experience. I'll perfect everything, aesthetically, once the fundamentals are sorted. The Distributor "Black wire"??. Is this wire important?. As I'm not currently seeing it.
  11. Ok... So after I've warmed the car up, I'm back to the same original situation. Tacho only working when the ignition is in the crank position, 12v supply. I let the car cool down for an hour, it ran for a short moment, then started fluttering and stopped again. Clearly there's an electrical connection issue. I've tried moving the harness around, with someone watching the tacho, and nothing. I need some insight here. Looking at the schematic, the Green / White wire is supplying the running voltage (9v?) from the ignition switch?
  12. And we have a winner!! Thank you so much @Enzo Thanks again, Rob
  13. Ahh, my bad. In my head I interpreted BW as Blue/White, as I couldn't see another Black/White. After digging around I just found it. Buried under 40 years of tape... It's in the vicinity of the distributor. I'll give it a go and report back.
  14. Cheers Enzo. Finally a running tacho again. Mine had an interesting side affect though. Had to use a ballast resistor between the BW and GW wires, otherwise the car won't stop. I can hear it powering the distributor when I connect them directly together. Unexpected behaviour?
  15. Howdy All, So, rather than making anymore assumptions, I'll just ask. Googling myself in circles. Hardware : 1977 260z / Unilite Distributor / Mallory e-series coil Details : Haven't had a functioning tacho for a few years, due to having a 6al controller. 6al died, so I've returned to the standard coil / distributor wiring setup. So far, only connected black/white tacho wire to the coil positive. And as the title suggests, it's only working when its being supplied 12v. With the car running I can get it to work, by simply turning the key ( without engaging the starter).
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