RAP260

Lol, yea I must be getting old also.... Went the same path, Triples > 4 Barrel > New SUs Out of interest, where'd you go for new SU's?. I went for the Midel HS6 conversion kit. Love them, but took about 3 needle changes to get the AFR spot on.

I'm happy to take a photo of mine, if you like. But as stated above, it probably won't solve the underlying issue.

I run HS6's. Bought mine new from SU midel. At the time it was a much easier, and cheaper option, than getting the old original SU's rebuilt. Parts, needles ect, are super easy to source locally. I had to ditch the original throttle linkage setup, and go with a cable, a superior option in my view. And also found the old choke cable ( solid core cable), didn't work very well with the choke mechanism, so I converted that to a stranded cable. That has its own issues, but was a better solution.

A little disappointed to be honest. I was hoping it would be mediocre looking, under powered and generally uninspiring....... Bugger...... now I want one.

Do I have to remove the traverse link spindle? I see it's possible with the 280z, to remove the strut without doing that. Edit : Through trial and error I discovered it is possible. But as this was my first time doing this, I learnt a couple of valuable lessons. It took a lot more force, than I initially thought reasonable, to push down the A-Arms. Was a little hesitant initially. And secondly, I had to remove the handbrake mounting bracket, as it limited the amount of travel possible. After that they basically fell out.

It's an L26. Mild cam and ported. I always put the lack of top end down to the carbs only being 40mm. Just interesting to hear others mention this as an issue with the L series. Unfortunately I didn't have an AFR gauge when I owned the webers, so I was most likely not getting the best out of them. And I wasn't really confident which direction to take. By comparison, now that I can assess the AFR, I just received my 4th set of SU needles....God bless the Haystack needle app..... Lol.

I'm interested in how Peter solved this problem also. But I'll share my solution. The heat shielding looks very similar to what I used when I had triples . ACL Heat Shield. http://www.autoxcel.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=140 I made use of the existing holes in the webers to basically suspend mine below the carbs. I used threaded rod, worked a treat. Refer to the attached picture. Had it fixed at 3 points. Hope this is of some help.

We'll, this discussion is very interesting. When I had triple webers ( 40mm ), I had this exact issue ( my first experience of the L6 engine ) . I looked around the Web, obviously not well enough, and found no obvious answer. I even have a post on here somewhere, where I mentioned this. It started bothering me because I thought there was an issue with my engine / webers. Fitted the HS6 conversion, and it will now pull all the way to the top, no issues. And it gets stronger as the revs build. But my bottom end has suffered greatly.

Looking fantastic Peter. Love how it sits. Your running kdrs-09 and kdfl-04 springs, with the shorter strut tophat / insulator on the rear, correct? Cheers, Rob P. S. Yea, you can't beat a cable. I'm using them on my HS6's, so smooth.

So I now at least understand why the tacho works during cranking. The G/W wire provides power directly to the Tacho during cranking, from the ignition. The point of the B/W wire seems to be providing power during normal running?? On closer inspection the wire I thought was B/W was actually B/Y. Which probably explains my issue. I've decided to pull apart the wiring harness, in the engine bay. As I now suspect the original B/W has been replaced by the L/W. Which I had running the Tacho previously ( with a resistor ). This wire is clearly a different gauge / quality , but it has the thick plastic sleeve I've seen on pictures of the original B/W.

All input helps , thank you. My connections are currently ...... Agricultural, to say the least. But should be functional, in my previous experience. I'll perfect everything, aesthetically, once the fundamentals are sorted. The Distributor "Black wire"??. Is this wire important?. As I'm not currently seeing it.

Ok... So after I've warmed the car up, I'm back to the same original situation. Tacho only working when the ignition is in the crank position, 12v supply. I let the car cool down for an hour, it ran for a short moment, then started fluttering and stopped again. Clearly there's an electrical connection issue. I've tried moving the harness around, with someone watching the tacho, and nothing. I need some insight here. Looking at the schematic, the Green / White wire is supplying the running voltage (9v?) from the ignition switch?

And we have a winner!! Thank you so much @Enzo Thanks again, Rob

Ahh, my bad. In my head I interpreted BW as Blue/White, as I couldn't see another Black/White. After digging around I just found it. Buried under 40 years of tape... It's in the vicinity of the distributor. I'll give it a go and report back.

Cheers Enzo. Finally a running tacho again. Mine had an interesting side affect though. Had to use a ballast resistor between the BW and GW wires, otherwise the car won't stop. I can hear it powering the distributor when I connect them directly together. Unexpected behaviour?

Howdy All, So, rather than making anymore assumptions, I'll just ask. Googling myself in circles. Hardware : 1977 260z / Unilite Distributor / Mallory e-series coil Details : Haven't had a functioning tacho for a few years, due to having a 6al controller. 6al died, so I've returned to the standard coil / distributor wiring setup. So far, only connected black/white tacho wire to the coil positive. And as the title suggests, it's only working when its being supplied 12v. With the car running I can get it to work, by simply turning the key ( without engaging the starter). Looking for input. Is this a signalling or a tacho power supply issue?. Or am I supposed to something with the handful of other wires dangling under my bonnet... Lol Cheers, Rob

Problem solved. One dead 6al. Rewired the coil / distributor , fired straight up. Time to go buy a ballast resistor and bin the 6al.

Tried the white wire test procedure, per msd instructions. Definitely not working. So it's either the coil or the controller, just don't won't to start replacing parts ad-hoc. Don't have a spare coil unfortunately and I really wanted to avoid rewiring the ignition system, just to check the coil. Any one got any other suggestions for testing a coil, other than resistance?

Afternoon all The distributor ( unilite ) is getting 12v. And I've tested the resistance on the coil, which seems to be within the recommended ranges. Was warming the car up to go for a run, and it just stopped, very suddenly. Fuel pressure is good. Checked all the fuses. Cheers, Rob

Hey @Linton , don't worry I share your dislike of Faecesbook. The above link not working is one of many reasons. Which is why i regularly deactivate mine. For what it's worth , if anyone is interested , this link may work for people without an account. Just have to scroll down to the video. https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Automotive-Repair-Shop/Muffler-Kings-492957797547665/ Yea Richard , I'm wrapped with what they did. No drone, rasp and it's not stupidly loud. A nice deep note. Exactly what I asked for.

I know it's not an early series Zed, but I had to share what these guys achieved with my 370z. It sound unbelievable in person, especially under load . The 260z will be heading their way soon. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1124412404402198&id=492957797547665

Wow, some big changes there Matty. Look forward, very much, to seeing how you approach the Turbo setup. Cheers, Rob

240z at about 10:00. Final auction result. http://www.silverstoneauctions.com/datsun-240z-12918 Obviously, no longer for sale. But interested in people's thoughts regarding the final price. Rob

Nice time Jeff I've been too preoccupied lately to have a go. Haven't turned on my desktop pc for a couple of months... Lol. Going to have to try and have a go on the weekend. Gee, just noticed I'm back to 6th. Dropped the ball, Lol. I see @jeff43is currently running 3rd. Yea, stinks that xbox aren't represented on the list.

Welcome Tim, 1k!!!!. Damn that's a bargain, even if it was just a shell. Good luck. Cheers, Rob