AndBir

Yep, looking at the chromework on the rear bumper and also the taillight surround they seem to have done it to a high standard. It will be a good to see what sort of price benchmark it sets for a 260Z (for insurance purposes). Interesting they did not look at an east coast auction.

Not an expert (far from it), but looks like it is running too rich and probably eventually fouled the spark plugs.

Thankfully you do not have to remove panels too often that are secured by these rivets, but I thought using a suitably sized small screw to replace (just) the rod part may be an option if you are not concerned about the aesthetic appearance.

Nope, generally you can find the rod and then it can be reinserted no problems. Any original ones will likely be brittle but the ones from the zfactory are pretty much exact replicas and work very well. I have used them and had no issues.

AFAIK, MSA/The Z Store are the exclusive sellers of the 240/260Z Konis : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20b04

Better than factory

Not sure if the current types of lithium batteries have improved however, when I previously looked at this, I understood lithium batteries like to operate within a limited temperature range and this may be exceeded by engine bay operating temperatures. Outside of this range their ability to be charged and longevity are affected. But, the latest Li battery types may have improved.

Great video Jeff, it shows the amount of work you put into it and the attention to detail that has resulted in a lovely car - no wonder you get positive reactions from people who see it. Makes me somewhat depressed as to what I need to do to get my car's paintwork back to an "as new" look!

Referenced in another topic : http://www.get-my-ride.com.au/vehicles-transported/

Great post, thanks for all of the detailed info and photos !! Just wondering, does it have a fresh air intake as well or does it just recirculate the cabin air?

For that price I would go for the OS Giken TC24-B1Z https://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct.php?category=engine&subtype=Engine, Head and Short Block Assemblies&brand=OS Giken&series=&name=TC24-B1Z Complete Engine&fromlink=1

The factory fuel rail has the return built into it.

Probably the only option anyway as I understand a set of the OEM type rubber ones are NLA.

And (hopefully) by the time you have the car back on the road the WA Govt. may have in place their proposed classic car rego scheme (similar to that in NSW/Vic) : https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/concessions.asp Work has commenced on regulatory changes to introduce the Concessions for Classics scheme (C4C) – a voluntary conditional licensing scheme which will be available to eligible street rods and vehicles manufactured prior to 1990, including motorcycles. A vehicle licensed under the C4C scheme: can be used for a maximum of 90 days annually, being 60 d

Congratulations, you will be busy on multiple fronts for many years

Seems that other than the windscreens all other 2 seater glass is NLA. :-(

One for @Hayden : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/newcastle/cars-vans-utes/datsun-240z-project/1263345062 NEWCASTLE : $8,500 This has got rust in floors and in some other areas but actually not as bad APART from were the tail lights go! The car was an exciting project when i HAD a job haha so now just want it sold so if interested.

Maybe January.

You need to know what the final specs of your engine will be prior to getting the dcoe carbies, as you do not want to have to change the "standard" jetting/tubes etc. as this can be expensive.

Not much info on his original topic :

There were no photos of the body shell, just photos showing the removable panels and doors (which were all replacements), refurbished dash, replacement floor panles, 3 x sets of roundtop carbies/manifolds/air filters. The text of the advert: $25,000 Golden Square Seller's Description #96 Does need repair in the front which I wasn’t worried about as most need repairs somewhere anyway. I was sourcing any bits required from Klassicfab in Columbia as they are doing pressings as original. Does come with the E31 head and E31

I used "Eastwood internal frame coating" for rust protection (ie not conversion): http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood83.html For the rear hatch I removed the hatch and sprayed heaps into the cavity areas and then rotated the hatch so that the pooled liquid flowed around all four sides to ensure a good coating at the seam between the internal and external panel.

Have a drink at the Anglers Rest/Blue Duck Inn pub if you get the chance, an interesting twisty drive and a nice place.

1974 Datsun 260Z SPORTS Manual Coupe $41,000 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kenilworth/cars-vans-utes/1974-datsun-260z-sports-manual-coupe/1261068999 Restoration details as follows... Professional bare metal repaint - Engine is L28 .040" oversize bore - New rings and bearings and valves ground. New oil pump and timing chain - Perry extractors into 2.5" system. Arizona Z car Intake manifold using 4 barrel 'Quick Fuel' (Holley) Carburetor. 280ZX Electronic distributor. Front and rear brakes major rebuild. Gear box and Rear end untouched (No oil leaks). 280ZX Alloy w

Was this the case before you rebuilt the rear suspension and the binding was keeping the car sitting lower at the rear? Fitting the Kings lowering springs seems the only way to resolve this, as the springs you have in now may not be OEM?