AndBir

I went with some products from Car Builders : 1) Insul-Layer - applied to inside of doors and rear quarter panels 2) Mass Noise Liner - used in place of the old sisal under carpet areas and on the firewall. From their web site : "Sound deadener is generally a misunderstood material. Normally the first stage of treating noise is referred to as ‘sound deadener’. This stage only really treats vibration in panels. It was often a bitumen-based product but more commonly consists of a butyl rubber with an aluminium top layer. Cheaper sound dampening sheets consist of a lower grade butyl, which is not as durable or resistant as those used by leading brands. Butyl sheets by themselves however, will not result in dampening droning or external noise that you may be more interested in treating. This will be treated more successfully with mass loaded vinyls. If you are aware of the type of sounds that are annoying, you will be able to treat them more successfully with targeted products."

If you go this way make sure you get the 45 DCOE 152G Weber Carburettor that has the 4 progression holes. You will need to specify what engine specs you have as it will influence what chokes, idle jets, emulsion tubes, and main jets are required in the Webers- best to get advice on this as it becomes expensive to replace all of these.

Seems the Kia door seals are back : https://kia.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/kia-door-weather-strip-k01858760b

I know I have one from an Aus delivered 260z I just need to find it

Just be wary of any ones you find on eBay as it appears the USA ones are quite different to those on the Aus delivered cars and most of those shown say "Untested" so will have faults.

Which SE Melb suburb?

I have sent you a message? What SE suburb are you in?

Hire or buy a borescope inspection camera to look at the inside surfaces of the shell / rails etc.

Nope, you MUST only get the 152G webers that come with the 4 progression holes, AFAIK the plain 152 webers came with 3 progression holes from factory. And of course you need to ensure that the jets/tubes etc are suitable for what engine you have. See this post : https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/15533-drilling-a-progression-hole/

So you opened up the indicator mechanism that internally has a ball bearing and rocker plate?

Sort of a Z related video. Gives you a better understanding as to the high cost of some of the Watanabe wheels

Sold for $65,500

Saw these pop up on a YouTube video. https://zociety.org/product/super-low-adjustable-seat-rails-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

The $1,900 for the SPB517 is a bit rich for me

For those looking to undertake spray painting in the Winter months PPG's tech tip: Cold Weather Clearcoat Curing Tips Cold temperatures can have a significant impact on the curing of urethane coatings. As temperatures drop, the curing process slows down and can even stop when temperatures drop below 60°F in your shop. These conditions can result in a finish that may eventually dry, but will exhibit reduced durability, gloss, and repairability. Therefore, it is important to ensure your products, your substrate, and ambient spray temperature are all above 60°F to insure proper curing of your paint film. Before you begin painting, remember these tips: If you store your products in an unheated area, make sure they are brought in to warm above 60°F prior to mixing. Make sure your ambient booth temperature is well above 60°F. If the car you will be working on has been sitting outside or in a cold shop, make sure it has been given time to warm in the booth to raise the metal temp above 60°F. Remembering these tips as temperatures plummet will help to ensure a successful paint job! Epoxy Primers and Cold Temperatures Epoxy primers are great to provide adhesion and corrosion protection to bare metal substrates and are especially popular among custom car builders and restoration shops. However, low temperatures can slow down the curing time of epoxy products, and with winter fast approaching it’s important to take extra care when temperatures drop. Keep these suggestions in mind when using epoxy in colder temperatures: Allow for extra cure time if your booth is below 70F. Temperatures below 70F can slow the rate of cure of the epoxy so it's important to wait some extra time before applying your next layer. Make sure your products are stored in a warmer environment. Just like your booth temperature being too cold, epoxy products that are too cold can cause slow cure as well. Warm your products to 65-70F before mixing and spraying. Apply heat if possible. Epoxies love heat to cure and a warm booth and metal temperature will ensure your products are performing their best. Maintaining this warm environment after the job is sprayed will also help ensure the coating cures properly.

A good resto resource mixed in with a lot of PGG product promotion https://www.ppg.com/en-US/refinish/support/user-guides-and-manuals/custom-restoration-guide

Heater stop cock : https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-au/products/heater-valve-for-1969-73-datsun-240z?srsltid=AfmBOopc6MA2_d8k1a5RL4ZJctrBZyyjzpVpkrJdd8dxh6MaQAq8OrGg Heater hoses : https://zcardepot.com/search?q=heater+hose&type=product https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-au/products/heater-hose-genuine-nissan-for-datsun-240z?variant=32695508271213

Pity this is not available in Australia https://www.facebook.com/carsosofficial/videos/car-sos10-workshop-uncut-opel-manta-e-coating/1408735606240503/ "E-coating, known as KTL in Germany, involves fully immersing the bodyshell in a range of cleaning and phosphating solutions before passing into the 55,000 litre paint tank kept at a controlled 33°C. Once submerged a current of around 400 Volts is passed through the tank causing the paint to uniformly bond to all areas of the shell."

Based on my 1973 made 260Z it appears that the scuttle was painted in position with no masking paper underneath. However the wiper motor and linkage would not have been in place at the time. So, other than the overspray through the scuttle panel slots, the plenum area remains the grey undercoat colour as shown below (just filter out the surface rust)

240z @ 7:53

Hopefully Sunday remains dry(ish)

Whilst not as low a VIN number, the car in this advert looks to be in a similar state and sets a price point that any assessor/court etc. would refer to : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dubbo/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-240z-sports-5-sp-manual-2d-coupe-all-others/1328600847

Yep, it is time consuming. For the doors, I cut a strip for the panel area above the stiffening rail and then a larger one for the area below. Getting it lined up before starting to remove the plastic covering the adhesive is vital.The doors now sound much more 'solid' when closed. The rear quarters were a jigsaw of pieces to suit.

2024 Christmas BBQ ?

Looking good :-) Yep, this is the only way to go to minimise the road noise and 'hear' the engine (and music) better. I also used the self adhesive Carbuilders closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels and on the rear quarters.