AndBir

Gav for RBA Governor!

No interest in this despite the price drop(s).

But, AFAIK, there may be fitment issues with the manifold(s) not having clearance with some types of thermostat housings.

Do you plan to use the original accelerator linkage or are you going with a cable set up, as that seems to be the difference between the two pictured?

Any thoughts re Castrol GTX Classic 20W-50 engine oil - high zinc and phosphorus versus Castrol Edge?

It has a built in WiFi source which you connect to with a phone or tablet after downloading the camera App. https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07C9C6P5D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Looked at rear chassis sections - unhappy to find the bottom rubber bungs were not in place - are they meant to be there? Of course being a country/farm garaged vehicle the spiders/bugs loved their safe haven. Inside chassis section, looking to front of vehicle Looking to rear Will get some more internal chassis coating spray and give these areas a coating.

Having seen some of the hidden rust areas exposed by CAR's resto projects I decided to see if a borescope could help in identifying rust in the body shell. I saw a video of Mythbusters Adam Savage "promoting" a small wireless borescope (NIDAGE Wireless Endoscope for Automotive Inspection Semi-Rigid Flexible Waterproof 5.5MM WiFi Borescope Camera) and it seemed a reasonable option for ~$70. So after a bit of probing (on low resolution) : Inside engine frame rail (I had previously sprayed some Eastwoods internal frame sealer with limited success) Roof rail/gutter internals In summary it is of some use but it is difficult to maneuver the camera head and the depth of field and illumination are variable.

Interesting to see the price history of some of the 240z/260z on Carsales, prices reduced by around 10% from the initial listed asking price.

They ^^^ don't look like the OEM type cylinders.

Good to see Shannons have a condition report highlighting the issues : https://shannons.blob.core.windows.net/main/Datsun 240Z.pdf

You may need to get a shade sail, otherwise the WA sun will cook the car again.

OK, then just tell the panel shop(s) what you want repaired and get them to quote on that. For the internal frame/body areas maybe just spray a bucket load of internal frame coating ( https://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood83.html ) to slow down any further rust development.

You may have a better idea of what is "really" required once you get the shell back to bare metal. Unfortunately these cars tend to rust from the inside out so it depends on what peace of mind you want as to the potential for "problems" appearing in the future.

^^^^ This is on Gumtree for $500 and I would be concerned about if the indicator section is even working or fixable (broken white plastic slider) https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/swansea/other-parts-accessories/240-z-260z-left-over-parts/1306961858

I see that after having a policy with Shannons at the maximum no claim bonus for 3 years then you get to keep the maximum no claim bonus (protected) for that policy for life (irrespective of your subsequent accident/claims history on that or other policies).

How to start/warm up your classic car's engine : Discussion around lubrication system, using the choke, rpm etc.

Manual or Automatic debate by Drive: https://www.drive.com.au/reviews/should-i-buy-an-automatic-or-manual-2023-nissan-z/?utm_campaign=syndication&utm_source=smh.com.au&utm_content=article_4&utm_medium=partner

If you can fit them in a box that has a capacity less than 100 litres and the total weight is below 25kg then the freight using Sendle will be around $45.

Maybe have a look at this build thread to see if there is any mention of wheel studs given this went to +500kw :

No love for the 1971 240z models at the moment? : 1971 Datsun 240Z SPORTS Automatic Coupe $66,666 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/townsville/cars-vans-utes/1971-datsun-240z-sports-automatic-coupe/1303946704 Datsun 240z 1971 model Automatic Matching numbers L24 Original condition Registered until May 2023 Comes with a rusted out 260z 2 2 which may be suitable for parts Open to offers Inspections are welcome 1971 Datsun 240Z SPORTS Automatic Coupe $50,000 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/peakhurst/cars-vans-utes/1971-datsun-240z-sports-automatic-coupe/1303534660 All the hard work is done .Body stripped to bare metal, all bolt on panels except hatch stripped inside and out. Rust repair, new doglegs, new doorskins , not a rusty car!. Body was Etch Primed , then filler work , then 5 Coats of primer. The front end sheet metal is perfect ,never been hit. Great driving car . Complete except windshield, Dash is cracked, needs headliner. Complete rubber kit, bolt kit. Manual trans, pedals, clutch kit, flywheel. Interior is good. professionally done. No trades. many photo,s 1971 Datsun 240Z SPORTS Manual Coupe $36,500 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/townsville/cars-vans-utes/1971-datsun-240z-sports-manual-coupe/1303932566 1971 Datsun 240z Coupe Car Number #HS30-01215 Car has original 2.4L engine Has been lightly blasted Sills have been profesionally repaired. Has all original interior parts. Front suspension compopnetns have been blasted and painted with all new bushes. Very original car Does have rust still in car

Just a heads up to anyone receiving front strut inserts from the 2nd batch of Koni 8641-1031SPORTS from MSA that you will see some differences to the original batch made in 2019 (as shown in this post) : #1 : The part number is different and "Not Adjustable" is printed on the label. MSA indicates that SP1 instead of SPORT reflects that this is a revised version and there was a printing error as "Adjustable" should be shown. #2 : The base of the front strut insert is different to the original batch due to fitment issues that occurred as mentioned in this topic here : https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61542-koni-sports-for-classic-zs/?do=findComment&comment=573828 and resulted in the gland nut not being able to be screwed down far enough into the strut. MSA indicated : "The 1031 SP1 means the first revision to the strut that Koni has done, i.e. SP for sport and 1 for revision 1. This is the change in shape at the bottom of the strut, which helps the strut fit better into a small percentage of 240Z’s that we found had an anomaly from Nissan, and in that less than 10% of cars, they weren’t sitting down properly due to the inner shape of the inside of the strut housing tube. The issue was only on certain early 240Z’s, and this change solved the issue. It does not affect the installation at all on the 90+% of 240Z’s that don’t have the anomaly, and in fact may give you a thread more turn down on the gland nut. " #3 : On the front strut inserts (1031SP1) I received the available adjustment is only 1 1/2 turns not the 2 turns that is on the rear inserts (1032SPORT) and is stated in KONI's pictorial instructions. MSA indicated that KONI advised that the adjustment is only a guide and can be more or less than 2 turns as per the following from MSA : "On the adjustment turns, we wanted to run this by Koni directly, and even though they are all at the SEMA automotive show, they took a few moments out to answer this question. They agree that the instructions need work, that the parties that put those together tried to make them too generalized and wide covering. They stated that the adjustment should be more clear and say 2 +/-. They said that the actual amount of turning is based on the length of rod needed inside in order to turn the adjuster at the bottom of the cartridge, and that can vary easily by ½ turn based on the specific strut application. They said that the extent of the adjustment is EXACTLY the same as the rear cartridges, just the ratio of turns to go from “lock to lock” is different. They said the only important factor is from side to side, that if one front side was 2 turns and the other front side was 1.5, then it would be a problem. If the rears are approximately 2 turns, and the fronts are approximately 1.5 turns, that is completely correct, and normal. We also apologize for the lack of clear details on the instructions, while Koni states they are working on them, we are hopeful to create our own instructions soon. It is a little unfortunate that this difference is necessary for different configuration struts (front to back or model to model), since racers who are fine-tuning their adjustments will have to do a little bit of math if they want to to turn both the fronts and rears up or down the same amount. But again the end of the turns in either direction is the exact same max adjustment numbers on the fronts vs rears, but the internal differences between the different applications (front and rear in this case) cause the ratio of turns necessary to complete the full adjustment range sweep a bit different."

Maybe the Vredestein Sprint Classic 195/70r14 on the Kobe Seiko wheels and the 175R14 on the standard steel wheel for a spare that fits nicely in the spare wheel well without a "lump" showing in the rear floor area.

This is the Dunlop LM Sport 704 195/70R14 on the 1974 alloys of my 260z not a classic looking tread but the correct profile and circumference : Whereas the Bridgestone RD-102 "wide" 195/70 R14 tyres that came with the car in 1974 had this tread pattern (similar to those posted by NickF):