AndBir

More of a Shannons advertorial :

From memory you will need to pull and release the handbrake multiple times to "readjust" the rear brake shoe setting. Edit:

Photo off eBay showing the parts of the 260z turn signal/highbeam switch for reference.

May not be happening (as a competitive event anyway)? https://targa.com.au/motorsport-australia-targa-championship-competition/news/ "TARGA to work with Motorsport Australia TARGA Australia will continue to work with Motorsport Australia following that organisation’s decision to suspend issuing permits for any Targa style tarmac rally events. The suspension follows the tragic death of a competitor, Tony Seymour, during the recent 2022 TARGA Tasmania."

This one needs to be saved from its "Cocoon of Doom" https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1973-datsun-240z-manual/SSE-AD-12240726/?Cr=4

One for the brave : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/magill/cars-vans-utes/1973-datsun-240z-sports-manual-coupe/1295669468 Magill, Sth Aust. Let me know your offer and I'll do my best to part with it. Vg30det engine Z32tt gearbox R32 r180 or r200 diff, can't remember which Z32tt front brakes R32 rear breaks Needs a lot of work Suit full rebuild Lots of miscellaneous interior parts including alloy half cage. Have a fibreglass bonnet for it Replacement good passenger door Probably other stuff that I can't remember Let me know your offer and I'll do my best to part with it.

Yep, I'm still planning to strip the exterior back to metal and respray it the emerald green metallic.

Also replaced my fuel tank vent hose - what a saga removing the RH & rear inside trim but at least now there is no fuel leak from the hose (near the tank end) when I try to fill up the tank. This enabled me to see what fuel usage was with the triple webers/L28 - was only a 70km drive to and up through the Dandenong Ranges (The Basin-Sassafras-Belgrave-Monbulk-Olinda-Montrose) but came in at around 12litres/100km. Too short a drive to probably be that definitive but it also helped me decide I need the original shock absorbers refurbed/replaced as the condition of non urban roads in Victoria is terrible.

Had a spare indicator stalk assembly with a dodgy switch so "upgraded" it to a SPDT toggle switch. Seems to work OK but requires a bracket to be made up and the switch position to be exactly centered with a semi flexible sleeve put over the 2.5mm wide toggle to remove the slop when inserted into the 5mm hole of plastic slider attached to the stalk.

Decided the "kangaroo damage" to the LH guard was not in my skill set to repair properly and the as new aftermarket one had an indicator cut out which would have to be deleted anyway, so took the original off the car and dropped it at C.A.R. to be repaired properly after which I can look at getting the car's paint stripped and repainted.

So no phosphoric acid metal prep treatment prior to primer?

280zx for auction : https://www.lloydsonline.com.au/LotDetails.aspx?smode=0&aid=32522&lid=3578132&pgn=2&pgs=100 https://www.lloydsonline.com.au/LotDetails.aspx?smode=0&aid=32522&lid=3584751&pgn=2&pgs=100

For Classic Zeds priced around the proposed price of the "All-New Nissan Z" it may be challenging given the new Z will likely be seen as the final (ICE) model and therefore a "collectable".

I forgot to mention that when soldering the wires to the new switch they need to be swapped to the opposite ends of the switch compared to the original. So White with red stripe to White with black stripe and visa versa. Clear as mud?

Old thread but thought I would update with another possible non OEM switch option for those with non repairable or unreliable turn signal switch.. The Narva 60291BL Micro On/Off/On Toggle Switch is smaller and does require a mounting plate to be made and the toggle to be "built up" to a wider diameter to be a snug fit in the sliding plastic fitting of the indicator "arm". Stainless steel, epoxy sealed SPST, solder type terminals Amperage rating 20A at 12V, 10A at 24V Mounting opening 6mm dia.

^^^^^ Makes the Z look like a big assed bus compared to the Supra :-( So it is fun because it has poor tyres and therefore traction issues? Need to put on some MICHELIN Pilot Sport Cup 2 to make the most of the power?

Auction prices are the only real indicator as the sold price is usually discounted from the advertised price but you never "see" this.

2+2 Rear bumper https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/magill/auto-body-parts/datsun-260z-2-2-rear-bumper/1294796976

Yep, when my lotto numbers come up : https://greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct.php?category=engine&subtype=Engine%2C+Head+and+Short+Block+Assemblies&brand=OS+Giken&series=&name=TC24-B1Z+Complete+Engine

The price of a car (well anything) is a function of supply and demand. Stock/OEM restorations are less common and probably appeal more to the "investor" whilst resto-mods are more common and attract the enthusiast-driver. The investors have deeper pockets which combined with the low supply of OEM spec cars results in a price premium.

For that period look ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/255505302263?hash=item3b7d4d82f7:g:ZZ4AAOSwhjRiZfEK&frcectupt=true Fitting kits show up at the bottom of the ebay advert.

Happy to see that given the interior trim is somewhat incomplete/non original spec.

Sorry, was sold with the shell.

You will need to check if they are the Datsun or British SU round top carbs. This is what a set of the British SU type look like on the Datsun intake manifold.

Assuming it is a reliable runner, another option is the Indian-Pacific MotoRail $625 Perth to Adelaide in 2 days - you collect it and drive to Melbourne