AndBir

Maybe a Needle Scaler would work for the hard to reach areas (where a wire wheel cannot get to) Something like this : https://www.totaltools.com.au/137658-tti-straight-grip-needle-scaler-st2558 A large one being used in one of our "favourite" resto channels *wink* : https://youtu.be/UAzQfd9VPtg?t=146 Edit : On second thoughts, if you can find a good spot blaster (if there is such a thing), then that would probably do a better job.

Didn't they change all this and GST is charged on all imports regardless of the amount? - many sellers include the GST in the invoiced amount. https://www.ato.gov.au/business/international-tax-for-business/gst-on-low-value-imported-goods/information-for-consumers/

Looks much better and in lieu of using HCl acid to dissolve any remaining rust, liberal application(s) of rust converter should complete the prep for cutting out the badly rusted areas and welding in new patch panels. I have seen videos of other 240z restos filling rust through holes by welding but I presume you would need to be sure you would not just enlarge the holes due to the metal being so thin. I'm sure others can provide better advice.

Unless they have had the C.A.F. restoration treatment :-)

And how many of our cars have this insidious rust "infection" quietly eating away from the inside out? - the answer is all of them - it just varies as to how extensive it is :-( And sellers on Carsales want you to pay ~$100k when you have no idea as to what is happening under the shell of the car - crazy!

Zcardepot have some : https://www.ebay.com.au/str/zcardepot?_bkw=280zx+lens Usual killer freight charge considering the price of the item.

Seems every episode gets worse - it will end up being the equivalent of a welded steel jigsaw puzzle !

Yep, should be restricted to vehicles that are classified as "passenger vehicles"

The google translated text may indicate this could be the post restoration price?? Or maybe on top of the purchase price?? The period is 4 to 5 months, and there is no need to wait for up to half a year. It is a system that you pay according to the progress of the work in multiple times instead of lump-sum payment. Body color is free to choose, so please let us know after it makes a successful bid.

Car sounds like an very old pet dog : "..does not run, but does turn itself over.."

Very old topic but Victoria is reviewing the CH scheme : https://www.theage.com.au/national/victoria/days-of-cheap-rego-loophole-for-classic-cars-could-be-numbered-20210714-p589o2.html#comments But likely to just change the vehicle age requirement to +30 years so Zed owners are OK.

Looks good, I need to do mine so, thanks to your work, I can confidently purchase these (and at a cheaper price via ebay)

Have you seen the ones available here : https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/

If the production and use of petrol vehicles falls dramatically I wonder what the impact on petrol prices will be. Will less demand result in higher overall cost of production per litre and/or refineries closing?

Datsun 240z Item location: Townsville, Queensland, Australia HS30-00379 Rolling shell. What you see is what you get. L28 with automatic gearbox. Inspections are welcome and encouraged. Happy to help with shipping at the buyers expense. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/324710381540?hash=item4b9a3f37e4:g:LY4AAOSwrJlg6lmP

I spent 7 years doing FiFo work Aus<->Sthn Africa and did once happen across a truck hijack in progress when driving to Johannesburg from the Free State. The guys got out of a small Datsun ute with their 9mm pistols drawn just as I drove past the truck in my "non-amoured" Hilux - needless to say I stamped on the accelerator and never looked back! Too many guns in South Africa - probably similar to the USA?

Probably out gunned by the crooks so safer to stay in the armored Landcruiser : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EEIXFr1bBg

Very Off topic - "Window selection criteria". And I thought it was only important to have stone chip resistant glass :

Yep, and stopping any form of H2O getting onto steel is critical for long term rust protection - so, IMHO, the Fe/Zn Phosphate treatment followed up with a hard, non porous layer of epoxy would be best.

Just to add to the mix of info : https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/car-paint-preparation

100% agree, there is so much conflicting or more accurately confusing information for people who have not done this sort of thing before and probably never will again :-)

I am sure we all would like our cars to have the rust protection that is present on todays vehicles, so maybe an understanding of todays car manufacturer paint process would help. Of course this is just based on Google searches and not first hand industry experience. History of Protecting the Automotive Body (https://www.paint.org/coatingstech-magazine/articles/brief-history-automotive-coatings-technology/) Topcoat technology was steadily improving for automotive coatings systems, but cars still had a major issue—rusting of the automotive body. A major coatings advance in the 1970s resolved this issue: electrodeposition primers, commonly known as “e-coat.” The first automotive electrocoat was an anodic product developed by Dr. George Brewer at Ford around 1957. However, there were drawbacks in the technology and PPG Industries introduced the first cathodic e-coat system for automotive bodies in 1973. Because these coatings essentially stop the automotive body from rusting, this new primer technology one was of the biggest breakthroughs in automotive coatings technology. Modern electrocoat automotive primers are applied by totally submerging the assembled car body in a large tank that contains the waterborne e-coat, and the coating is applied through cathodic eletrodeposition. This assures nearly 100% coverage of all metal surfaces by the primer. The coating chemistry is waterborne enamel based on epoxy, an aminoalcohol adduct, and blocked isocyanate, which all crosslink on baking to form an epoxy-urethane resin system. This resin technology, combined with the excellent coverage provided by electrodeposition, delivers one of the most effective coatings for corrosion protection known. Virtually all cars use e-coat technology as the foundation of their coating system today. Process Overview : (http://www.ppgecoat.com/Process.aspx) The electrocoat process can be divided into four distinct sections: Pretreatment: Parts are cleaned and pretreated with a conversion coating to prepare the part for electrocoating. Electrocoat Tank: Direct current is applied between the parts and a "counter" electrode. Paint is attracted by the electric field to the part where it is deposited. Post Rinses: Parts are rinsed to reclaim undeposited paint solids. Bake Oven: Paint is thermally cross-linked or cured. Pretreatment Process for Electrocoat Paint Application : (http://www.ppgecoat.com/Process/Pretreatment.aspx) In the pretreatment process, metal surfaces are cleaned and prepared for electrocoat paint application. Oils and other contaminants are removed from the part. Existing rust spots may be removed and a phosphate or conversion coating is applied. The pretreatment process is necessary to improve electrocoat performance, ensure a high quality electrocoat finish and to keep the paint bath clean of unwanted contaminants. The number and type of pretreatment stages depends greatly on the type and condition of metal being introduced to the system. It also depends on the part configuration and the overall performance requirements of the phosphate or conversion coating. Zinc and iron phosphates are the most widely used conversion coatings in the electrocoat industry. Zinc phosphate is the preferred pretreatment choice in the electrocoat industry because it provides the best corrosion resistance and paint adhesion.. So, if this theory is still valid for manual (spray/brush) application of primer then repairs/repainting should involve: 1) Manual removal of coatings (rust/paint) down to freshest possible bare metal 2) Clean all surfaces with your preferred degreaser 3) Apply your preferred surface treatment to produce a zinc phosphate coating on the metal 4) Apply your preferred sealer coat (for non exposed area KBS Rust Seal seems to be a good option with atmospheric cured resins).

AFAIK, all of the rust treatments produce a zinc phosphate coating. Maybe you are thinking of galvanised steel that does require some type of etching/priming to get paints to adhere properly. I would only use it on areas that are to be subsequently treated / coated with a rust preventative such as a wax / fish oil etc. such as the sills, chassis box section, bottom of doors etc.

I would consider the use of Cold Gal for the parts of the car body you are not going to expose to the elements. I would refer to a medical specialist for advice

Z432R https://www.whichcar.com.au/news/1970-nissan-240z-z432r-sells-117million