AndBir

Hire or buy a borescope inspection camera to look at the inside surfaces of the shell / rails etc.

Nope, you MUST only get the 152G webers that come with the 4 progression holes, AFAIK the plain 152 webers came with 3 progression holes from factory. And of course you need to ensure that the jets/tubes etc are suitable for what engine you have. See this post : https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/15533-drilling-a-progression-hole/

So you opened up the indicator mechanism that internally has a ball bearing and rocker plate?

Sort of a Z related video. Gives you a better understanding as to the high cost of some of the Watanabe wheels

Sold for $65,500

Saw these pop up on a YouTube video. https://zociety.org/product/super-low-adjustable-seat-rails-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

The $1,900 for the SPB517 is a bit rich for me

For those looking to undertake spray painting in the Winter months PPG's tech tip: Cold Weather Clearcoat Curing Tips Cold temperatures can have a significant impact on the curing of urethane coatings. As temperatures drop, the curing process slows down and can even stop when temperatures drop below 60°F in your shop. These conditions can result in a finish that may eventually dry, but will exhibit reduced durability, gloss, and repairability. Therefore, it is important to ensure your products, your substrate, and ambient spray temperature are all above 60°F to insure proper curing of your paint film. Before you begin painting, remember these tips: If you store your products in an unheated area, make sure they are brought in to warm above 60°F prior to mixing. Make sure your ambient booth temperature is well above 60°F. If the car you will be working on has been sitting outside or in a cold shop, make sure it has been given time to warm in the booth to raise the metal temp above 60°F. Remembering these tips as temperatures plummet will help to ensure a successful paint job! Epoxy Primers and Cold Temperatures Epoxy primers are great to provide adhesion and corrosion protection to bare metal substrates and are especially popular among custom car builders and restoration shops. However, low temperatures can slow down the curing time of epoxy products, and with winter fast approaching it’s important to take extra care when temperatures drop. Keep these suggestions in mind when using epoxy in colder temperatures: Allow for extra cure time if your booth is below 70F. Temperatures below 70F can slow the rate of cure of the epoxy so it's important to wait some extra time before applying your next layer. Make sure your products are stored in a warmer environment. Just like your booth temperature being too cold, epoxy products that are too cold can cause slow cure as well. Warm your products to 65-70F before mixing and spraying. Apply heat if possible. Epoxies love heat to cure and a warm booth and metal temperature will ensure your products are performing their best. Maintaining this warm environment after the job is sprayed will also help ensure the coating cures properly.

A good resto resource mixed in with a lot of PGG product promotion https://www.ppg.com/en-US/refinish/support/user-guides-and-manuals/custom-restoration-guide

Heater stop cock : https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-au/products/heater-valve-for-1969-73-datsun-240z?srsltid=AfmBOopc6MA2_d8k1a5RL4ZJctrBZyyjzpVpkrJdd8dxh6MaQAq8OrGg Heater hoses : https://zcardepot.com/search?q=heater+hose&type=product https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-au/products/heater-hose-genuine-nissan-for-datsun-240z?variant=32695508271213

Pity this is not available in Australia https://www.facebook.com/carsosofficial/videos/car-sos10-workshop-uncut-opel-manta-e-coating/1408735606240503/ "E-coating, known as KTL in Germany, involves fully immersing the bodyshell in a range of cleaning and phosphating solutions before passing into the 55,000 litre paint tank kept at a controlled 33°C. Once submerged a current of around 400 Volts is passed through the tank causing the paint to uniformly bond to all areas of the shell."

Based on my 1973 made 260Z it appears that the scuttle was painted in position with no masking paper underneath. However the wiper motor and linkage would not have been in place at the time. So, other than the overspray through the scuttle panel slots, the plenum area remains the grey undercoat colour as shown below (just filter out the surface rust)

240z @ 7:53

Hopefully Sunday remains dry(ish)

Whilst not as low a VIN number, the car in this advert looks to be in a similar state and sets a price point that any assessor/court etc. would refer to : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dubbo/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-240z-sports-5-sp-manual-2d-coupe-all-others/1328600847

Yep, it is time consuming. For the doors, I cut a strip for the panel area above the stiffening rail and then a larger one for the area below. Getting it lined up before starting to remove the plastic covering the adhesive is vital.The doors now sound much more 'solid' when closed. The rear quarters were a jigsaw of pieces to suit.

2024 Christmas BBQ ?

Looking good :-) Yep, this is the only way to go to minimise the road noise and 'hear' the engine (and music) better. I also used the self adhesive Carbuilders closed cell foam on the inside of the door panels and on the rear quarters.

It will have to be live streamed at the AusZcar Christmas Party Pity they have not been able to source the chrome trim for the rear hatch glass rubber.

The key take-away from this is always have "laid up" insurance. Most would have laid up insurance to cover the unlikely risk of a fire if stored in a garage etc. but in this case it was theft. Not sure what insurance value you would have been able to get for it in its unrestored condition however I feel you are stretching it to try and claim the lost value as being the potential value once restored. But given you have cost data for previous restorations then that may assist in determining your potential 'Net' loss.

Site admin may also be able to help you with info about HS30-00051

Maybe have a look at the cars here (includes #48) : https://www.viczcar.com/gallery/category/11-1970/ See if you can make contact with the current owners of the cars (unrestored as well as restored) on page 1 of the Gallery and use their vehicles to get estimates of current values. https://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classicHS.htm https://web.archive.org/web/20190830033411/http://wazregister.com/index.php?title=View_ANZIS30_Register

Not my advert but saw this : https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burleigh-heads/wheels-tyres-rims/original-datsun-240z-oem-wheels/1328322263 Up for sale are some beautiful all original Datsun 240z wheels and hubcaps. They are in really good condition for their age, and are nowadays rather hard to find. The wheel size is 14x4.5, offset is unclear but looks to be around +15mm. The tread on the tyres is like new, however they are 14 years old. Fortunately, if you'd like new tyres on them, we can work out a package deal. Asking $500 ONO, located in Burleigh Heads, QLD

I should be able to make it this year but not sure my "patina rich" 260z will fit in with those nice shiny ones

I feel your price is somewhat optimistic.