Cozza

Hi Craig Welcome and good luck with your resto. Pop up some photos, we'd love to see your project. I have a spare pair of quarter windows from my 240, pretty sure they'll fit. Drop me a pm with your number and I'll text some pics if your interested. Cheers Mick

I like black but, your car looks great with all those wheels Mike. It seems you can't go wrong

If you are getting a new exhaust, why not put a plug in for an oxygen sensor. It is handy if you get an O2 sensor and put it in the dash for tuning purposes even if it is only temporary. You can always put a bung in it when not in use. That's what I did anyway. I vote for a 2.5" system, I don't think it will be too loud with a muffler and resonator. Mick

I recently had my 240z wheel cylinders re-sleeved (to original bore diameter) as I couldn't find replacement ones. They cost me about $150 and seem to be done very well. They were done by Weldon Brake and Clutch in Miranda. http://www.weldonbrakes.com.au Mick

Wow that is unreal!! I like this 1600 doing 2.30's Here's an article about Buttons an unofficial F1 time of 1.48 http://www.motorsportretro.com/2011/03/jenson-button-craig-lowndes-bathurst/ I don't know why it wasn't officially timed though ? Mick

For a cheap option, you could use a transformer from a common house downlight . The voltage would probably not be exactly 12v but nor is a cars system. I got one you can have Gav. Drop me a PM if you're interested Mick

Both sets appear to be linear. If you measure coil diameter and free length and count the number of coils, you can put that info into a coil spring calculator to get the k value. My front King low springs (variable rate) were tested by a suspension shop and were about 185 lb/inch at ride height. You shouldn't have much trouble finding a spring calculator on the net. Cheers Mick

Check out the link from above. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-multifunction-switches/ I'm not sure about North American delivered cars but, the wiring diagram shown in the link is the same as the one found in the FSM that I find closest to my car. The author also describes the power to the brake light switch is dropped when the hazards are turned on. Be good to get confirmation once installed GongZ. Mick

I'm pretty sure I'll be at Wakefield Park that weekend. Sorry Mate

I completely agree but, keep in mind that the brake lights won't work when the hazards are on. Mick

I have a set of 16s sitting idle at the moment. How long do you need them for? I'm happy to loan for a bit. Mind you the RA1's are getting thin Mick

Well I guess congratulations is the right thing to say but, commiserations is the way I feel. You have recreated a beautiful car Adam with no expense spared. I hope that all those hard to get go fast bits as well as all your blood, sweat and tears has been worth the enjoyment of the build. Thanks for your exhaustive and detailed build thread, it has enlightened me and kept me entertained for hours. I hope the new owners treat it with a heavy right foot. We are gonna miss you and the Brown Hornet. Good luck with the sale and your next toy. Mick

Do you think 45's are required? I'm running 40's on my L28 with 32mm chokes. I started with 36 chokes but had a big flat spot through 3-4K rpm. Changing to the 32's increased mid range torque by almost 40 ftlb with only a small loss of top end. For me, mid range is paramount as it's mostly used as a road car with a bit of track work here and there. Mick

Here's another thread I have put some detail in before http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13111.msg136530.html#msg136530 but, I have a 9/72 240 which has from factory, the heavy green wires that go from near the fuse box back to the fuel pump. I placed a tachometric relay plus a normal type relay up by the fuse box then used the original green wires to feed the fuel pump which is located in the usual spot by the tank. The tachometric relay gets its trigger from behind the tacho which feeds the normal relay which in turn powers the pump. Here's a dodgy pic of the relays up by the fuse box. If you want a better pic pm me with your number or email and I will send a higher res pic (using an iPhone to upload pics is a bit difficult for me) Cheers Mick

Not sure of your location but I had mine done in the Sutherland Shire by Weldon Brake and Clutch. I find them to be very reasonably priced and can normally get hold of anything I need. http://www.weldonbrakes.com.au Cheers Mick

Hey Gav try Tim at Carburettor Service Company on Parramatta Road. http://www.carburettorservice.com.au BTW I love that DIY tumble polisher.

Yeah that car looks pretty good Jake. Do you think it would scrub the tyres much?? I guess by colour coding the flares you can almost imagine they aren't there. Hehe Mick

Yep MaygZ and I are all sorted. Mossy if you can PM me your bank details and I'll send you some money. Where abouts are you Mossy, anywhere near an ego depot? http://www.e-go.com.au/depot_locations_inframe.do Or, are you happy to post them separately? Thanks Mick

I'd take the other pair if your prepared to split Mossy. Shotgun the new pair Mick

Sounds like it was a great day, you sure had some good weather for it!! Eleanor sure looks pretty too Sorry I couldn't make it but hopefully will get along to the next event. BTW Thanks for your kind words all. Mick

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Hi Guys Sorry won't be able to make this one. Had baby number 3 last week. Turns out 3 kids under 4 is just a bit hectic, who new hey Hope you have a great day, and I'll hopefully catch ya's on the next cruise. Mick

Yep thanks to all for your good advice and just general good conversation. Hope Santa is good to you all, and the new year is a good one. Cheers Mick

As far as I understand, it is just the opposite. The ignition system runs through the ballast resistor in the run position (approx 9v) to reduce the wear on the points mainly. The ballast resistor is bypassed in the start position to help increase spark and to help starting. Might be wrong though.

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