Cozza

Not sure this would help too much. As Six Shooter was eluding to, if you simply supply the +ve side of the coil with a 12v supply directly from the battery you can almost ensure spark. With carbs and non ECU control ignition, there is very little you can do to immobilise the engine. I have heard of people having an alarm and tracking device. The aim is that when the alarm is activated a SMS is sent to your phone, you can then track the car via GPS. While this doesn't stop the car from being pinched it sounds like it would help to recover it. When do thefts tend to occur, I imagine when the Car is parked at its usual location, home, so I agree that parking in a garage with additional cars parked in drive sounds great but not always practical. Just my thoughts. Mick

Clean car Mate, I quite like the colour combo too. At least with those bumpers you're not likely to crease the nose of the bonnet like I have seen on many S30's Just wondering how different is the 260z to the 280z? I recognise the engine size and fuel injection but I wondered if the body was modified at all? Like when they changed from the 240z to the 260z. Happy Z'ing again. Mick

Could it just be the float level in the front carb? Mick

Hey Mossy I'm keen on the grilles. Ill send a pm. Mick

Yes a higher ratio diff will act as a torque multiplier and will help you to accelerate quicker however, it will not change the rev difference between gear changes. That is directly related to the gear box ratios only.

Changing your diff ratio will have no effect on the lag you are describing when changing gears, it will only change the vehicle speed that the lag occurs at. According to the ratios you mentioned in your earlier post The change in revs between gears will be as follows and will be irrelevant of diff ratio 6 speed 1-2: 61% 2-3: 70% 3-4: 79% 4-5: 84% 5-6: 77% 5 speed 1-2: 63% 2-3: 63% 3-4: 76% 4-5: 86% Therefore the 5 speed will be slightly closer between 1st and 2nd whereas the 6 speed will be quite a bit closer between 2nd and 3rd. The close ratio gear set Jason mentioned Would be as follows 1-2: 69% 2-3: 75% 3-4: 80% 4-5: 86% These are closer ratios than both the other boxes you mentioned in all gear changes. If you were to use this gear set and you always wanted to be in the power band (above 4000 rpm) you would have to change up gears at the following rpm 1-2: 5797 2-3: 5333 3-4: 5000 4-5: 4651 Hope this helps Mick

Yep I'm keen but will need a couple weeks notice. Mick

Yeah I got my Torsen type 2008 STi diff and the beta motor sports stub axles $1000 all up. The only down side was that I had to wait about 4 or 5 months for John to run another batch of the axles. So if you think you might go down that route then I recommend you follow the axles up first. As Jake mentioned the entire unit is newer than putting a new centre in an old K diff but I think the real benefit is that if you do blow a diff it is a reasonably cheap ($400-500) replacement unit once you have the stub axles. I'm really happy with mine.

Not at the moment but Logan is not far off the Hway on the way home. If its a bmx should be ok but a mountain bike might be a bit of a stretch. More than happy to help if I can. Drop me a pm with your number and ill give you a call.

I'm on the Sunny coast at the moment and heading back to Sydney in about a week. I have a bit of room if anyone needs something moved. Mick

Intermitant? I didnt think 240's had intermitant, my 9/72 doesn't. Have you replaced the wiper motor and/or switch from something else? If its original i agree with Zedman the parking mechanism is within the motor itself. Good luck

If you get really stuck try Conwire in Sydney. They can replicate any cable you like and are very reasonably priced. http://www.conwire.com.au/

Sounds like you might be able to spray a bit of "Inox" or similar beside the screw head, it should find its way down to the seized thread. Then after a beer put the screw driver back in position and give it a bit of torsion with one hand and a light tap with a hammer with the other hand. Not too hard but... Good luck

Yep I got a stand for you Gav drop me a PM. Mick

You can have my L28 for $500 in about 6 weeks. It's out of an '82 280zx but now running 240 carbs and in my 240z. Welch plugs replaced and motor painted about 2 years ago. Bit of a leak from the rear main (I think) at the moment. Can come take it for a test drive if you like. Drop me a PM if you're keen. Mick

Adam you are welcome to the one from my car till Australia Day. I'm in the Sutho Shire, you're welcome to come down or I'm happy to post it if you need. It is a boomerang though. Cheers Mick

Cool, you must be stoked Adam. The best Chrissy present you could ask for!! Any video of the dyno?

Just wondering what people think of NRMA vintage and veteran insurance. That's who I am insured with, they seem very reasonably priced for what I'm getting but, fortunately I have not yet had to make a claim so don't know what they are like with claims. Mick

Yep, 7" +20 with 225's will just fit on the rear but on the front they will foul the spring perch so that you can't even spin the tyre. I run 205/50 semi slicks all round with no problem on 7" +20 rims. In my opinion they don't fill the guards properly and would go with +4's as suggested by others. Mick

If resale has any weight on your decision, and by the sounds of it originality is not critical. I reckon I would rebuild a fast L28 with triples etc. for the time you own it, higher hp/$ spent. Then when it comes time to sell it, put the matching number motor back in with su's and sell the complete hot L28 separately. I reckon that would be the best way to recoup the costs of your build and enjoy a pokey motor whilst you had it. I guess this theory is most relevant if you plan on keeping an original theme for the car, no flares, cut guards etc. Mick

Can you pull a piston out through the bottom end?

Hey Matt, how you been? haven't heard from you in a while. Just wondering if you run a rear bar on your car? I hear some people like them and others don't. Cheers Mick

I don't know much about these model Z's but I do have a '96 Navara with a VG30 motor. It has just clocked over 317K's on the odometer and pulls like an OX. Never had any problems with the motor, or computer etc. I'm pretty sure they are the same motor to the Z31 & 32's. Mick

Finally got around to getting some GMA SpeedBlast garnet. It is so much better than the Supercheap blasting grit, no dust, no mess. I should have done it ages ago. I have connected the vac as well but to be honest I'm not sure I need it now, I will get a new filter, then see if the vac is necessary. Any suggestions on how to clean the scratches from the Perspex window? Cue TT Aero here. (I am using a piece of replaceable clear plastic on the window but it is still pretty scratched up.) Thanks for your help Fellas.

Hey Guys Coming along beautifully. I enjoy seeing the effort that goes into this build. Wish I could find the enthusiasm you guys have. Dad your detailing work is awesome. It sounds like you could write up a great sticky on 'how to clean and polish anything automotive' In regards to your ride height, did you tighten the suspension bushes whilst the suspension was loaded? I remember reading somewhere (FSM probably) that the control arm bushes should only be tightened once the car is back on the ground. Dont know if it would make much difference to the height but just a thought. Keep up the good work. Mick