Cozza

Sorry I can't help with this one Dimitri but I am interested to see a photo of your plethora of bikes. Is there a particular model or era that you are collecting? Do you ride or restore them? Mick

I can't see how this would make the lights come on when turned to accesories. The wiring diagram i have been following shows the brake lights are permanently active, if the switch was not being closed then the brake lights would be on all the time. Phil did you happen to confirm if the brake lights worked correctly when the ignition was turned to the off position? Also, did you monitor the lights while you were disconnecting the loom to see when they turned off? With regard to your other queries, your wiring looks different to my 9/72 240 from memory. Unfortunately my car is not with me at the moment so I can't confirm. Also it is difficult to follow a wiring diagram via photos, I find it necessary to 'bell out' wires to confirm their identity. Finally i have not found a single wiring diagram that actually matches my cars wiring, i have had to blend a couple diagrams to suit my vehicle. I have intended on drawing a wiring diagram in ACAD with appropriate layers but haven't got around to it yet. In saying that, your pic 1. the only 4 pin plug that I can think of behind the glove box on mine was for one of the passing light relays which mounts on the passenger side kick panel. My wiring diagram shows the wire colours to be red/white, black, red/white and red/blue. Sorry I can't comment on your other queries Good luck Mate Mick

That's a shame, sorry for that. Figure it was worth a try at least. Mick

Hey Gareth, where did you get them from? Ive been looking for spacers, offset ones giving 2' neg camber sound like a good option. Cheers Mick

This is a little off topic but it does pinch my nerve. From what I read of posts on this forum regarding King Springs, I don't think I have seen any 2 posts stating the same information the King tech department have given them. I have been quoted by the tech dept. the following spring rates: KDFL08 280 lb/" KDRL09 320 lb/" I have read all sorts of conflicting rates for these springs on here. Is this just bad info from supplier or something else? Sorry for the rant but it does bug me. Mick

Mines a 9/72 and also the one on the left. Sorry no spares to pass in though. Mick

Always the perfectionist, system looks great. updates on this build have been missed. Keep up the good work and keep the posts coming. Mick

I got heater hoses, grommets and tap for my 240z recently from SWMotorsport. Wasn't cheap but nice to fit the correct shape hoses. (02) 4577 2400

Yep I found the same thing when i bought "low" king springs for my 240. Part numbers KDFL08 and KDRL09. Both front and rear are non captive by about 5mm. I used cable ties round the bottom spring perch to the bottom of the spring and again cable ties round the top hat to the top of the spring. I know its not ideal but i have driven about 1000 odd k's since installed and no probs as yet. I know some others use tie wire instead. On another note, I have found the fronts did not drop the ride height by the suggested 30mm. I'm interested to find out how your ride height works out. Mick

Yep you've got the right globes in, thats it, just unplug the wiper motor in the engine bay and turn the ignition to accesories and see if the lights come on. Just a guess but might just be the problem.

Hey there, just had a bit of a look at the wiring diagram and notice the wipers are on the accesories circuit. Considering your lights are coming on when you turn to accesories.... Now I'm no auto elec but im thinking that maybe the combo swith is shorting out somehow. Try unplugging the wiper motor plug in the engine bay, by the looks of the wiring diagram that should break the accesories supply to the combo switch. Im probably way off but for 2 mins work, its gotta be worth a try. Never know you're luck. Mick Edit. Also ensure you have the double filament 21/5w globes in for the stop tails

The 17mm nut is the lock nut, undo that one first. Mine were very tight las time I adjusted them too. If you have already removed the head from the block i.e. no head bolts, you may be able to use a pipe spanner instead of an open ender. That might help prevent rounding the lock nut. Good luck. Mick

Good job George. all sounds good to me, I should be right for the April one. Mick

I got my 240z ones from SW Motorsport. From memory I think Stewart suggested they were a progressive rate rubber. They were definitely the right shape for the top hat. Mick

Great weather and a great turn out with some very neat Z's, Clubmans and a Cobra. It was nice to put some faces to names or alias's. Thanks for putting up the venue and for organising the event Peter. Hope we can do it again sooner rather than later. Mick

Wow they look the goods. Suit your car perfectly. Do you plan on running the strut spacers as well? And, what sort of mileage do you expect to get from them? Cheers Mick

Not sure if you have a car to tow with but I hired a trailer from my local servo for 4 hours for $60 plus $100 deposit. To tow my 1600.

SMS sent re. the rear glass Mick

Yeah, I'll be round for a bit. Zedless unfortunately. Will be good to catch up. Mick

Congratulations Mate. That must be a satisfying mile stone. I enjoy your updates, they are well detailed and being watched by many I'm sure. Keep up the good work, it's coming along great. Cheers Mick

Still looking for both, fuel rail and linkage for a 240z, but I assume they are same as 260? Cheers Mick

Hey Alfadog, just wondering how much for that Hakosuka you looked at? BTW sweet C110. Mick

You could try Conwire in Milperra. They can replicate any cable you like and are very reasonably priced. http://www.conwire.com.au/

Haha. No I'm actually remembering my first rides at 17 when I was in year 11 at school and working a part time job to earn money to blow on my car addiction. First a '63 mini that I got for free, it had been off the road for 19 years. I rebuilt the motor, gearbox, whole front end, electric fuel pump from memory, not much rust though I did spray the engine bay the ugliest BRG you have ever seen from a spray can. I paid the bills but the old Man offered his knowledge on many things. Drove that for about 6 months before I flipped it end over end. Next was a $300 Datto 1600 which needed a lot of work, mech and body. Neither of those cars were show cars or wild street machines but they were mine and i knew them inside and out. Mate if you want it, get it. Put some time and love in to it and Shazam!! Doesn't have to be perfect, the repairs don't have to last a lifetime, in my eyes it's all about for for purpose. This is for a 17 year old not a perfectionist. I'm not suggesting this is a project for all but maybe for someone who has a small budget and willing to get their hands dirty and learn a wealth of knowledge and skills that are transferable for many things in life. Perfect for a 17 year old in my opinion.

If I was 17 I'd be buying that, 2k wow!. Do the necessary repairs myself and drive it, be stupid and carry on like a 17 year old should. A car does not have to be concourse or anything near it. Buy it, make it run and get rego, spend every cent you got on your pride and joy. Learn a whole lot about car repairs along the way. If you and it are still kicking in 10 years think about a full resto when you got the cash and experience. Most importantly enjoy life and enjoy the car you want. Looks like a great way to get into a Z at your age and budget to me. Good luck