Cozza

Nah it's for forced induction, just missing some pipe work.

Hi Pete. You mention you have "heaps" of negative camber. As Ian commented I have these in the front of my 240 (non adjustable though) and I still have less than 1' negative. Obviously if your strut length is shorter than mine, this offset bush will offer more overall negative however, I am thinking your "heaps" of negative camber may be due to something else. Is it possible you have lengthened lower control arms or something? Just a thought. Mick

That's great news Pete. Looking forward to seeing it progress and on the road sometime soon. I'm guessing you didn't pull it home with the Pulman. Mick

The 16th should be ok with me, I'll be there with my z if the weather is kind to us. Mick

A Mate pays for some sort of post box in the us where they store his us purchases until he is ready for the lot to be shipped. He says the shipping costs are organised by the same company and are much cheaper than the costs normally advertised by ebay sellers. I Don't know much more about it but I'm sure someone on here does and will elaborate.

Stewart Wilkins does a bolt type upgrade. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=101

Hey Scoota Does the Pertronix kit replace the vac advance breaker plate of the standard 280zx dizzy? Cheers Mick

I'm happy with the 4.6 in my car. I'm running 205/60 15's. It's great for normal street driving and Wakefield Park. But as d3coy suggests, long highway trips would be a bit of a drone. I also have a 3.9 for highway or long tracks. Mick

That's cool little expensive though Here's some info I found on the net. http://www.carscoops.com/2011/03/weirdly-awesome-1970-nissan-skyline-gt.html?m=1

Well I guess it's probably similar to what you paid for it. Although, considering there are so few for sale at the moment, only 1 240z and 6 260z's on Carsales, it may have gone up a bit. As above, pending body condition, if it's good, I would be guessing 20k and up. The more photos you have of the body restoration will increase the value I think. But, as the old saying goes, it's worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Don't know if the wheels are dear to you but, I'm with Patch, the car would sell for more with another set of rims. Good luck with the sale and with the new Bub. Mick

Looks nice. How long have you had the car?

I haven't seen the movie but is this it at 2:20

Cool, sounds like it should be a bit of a weapon. Hope one of your blocks will suit. Keep us posted as to Sonic and sleeve pricing.

Any idea on the cost of sonic testing? It might be cheaper to bite the bullet and sleeve what you have rather than sonic testing a bunch of blocks. Especially if you have to buy the blocks to start with. Would I be wrong in assuming sleeves have good metallurgy and are very hard wearing, giving longer life? What's your goal with this one Gareth, LD28 crank. Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing. Cheers Mick

I've used the VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint on all my suspension components. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/rollbarchassis/ The front I did about 18 months and 6000 k's ago and still in great condition. I don't drive it in the wet though It was easy to apply and I'm happy with the results I have an old oven in the shed and use that to bake the pieces after painting. No idea if that has helped or not. Mick

Due to the head being shaved, the distance between cam and crank has reduced and causes excessive slack in the timing chain. The purpose of the cam tower shims is to lift the cam up and away from the crankshaft and in turn tighten the timing chain. One of the side effects is that you are also lifting the cam away from the valves, hence the reason you would need thicker lash pads to get a good contact or "wipe pattern" There are other options to tighten the timing chain as dat2kman has mentioned. I don't know the pros and cons sorry. Hope that helps a bit.

720 front diff I picked up a 4.625 for $250 I think I'm pretty sure some models had a 4.44 or maybe it was a 4.375 Mick

Yeah, I remember Adam mentioned the crushed primaries in his build thread. He wasn't overly happy about it but t seems that others weren't so surprised about it. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4168.msg100861.html#msg100861

You might struggle using those ones, they have a 66.1mm hub bore. I think S30 fronts are about 73mm. Others may have a different opinion but, I'm not sure if hub centric is important considering the wheels are not hub centric why would you need the spacers to be? I got my 25mm bolt on spacers from Ben at Otomoto Great product and service. You could try find someone with a 1600 / 180B (pretty sure they run 20-25mm offset with standard struts) you could sell your wheels to and get yourself some 0 offsets. Cheers Mick

Hi Peter Could you tap the thread further along the adjusting rod? I can see a sleeve would be very simple too. Great to see your car is getting closer, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting close now Mate

Yep, head to Batemans Bay then turn inland. Take extra couple hours but a much more satisfying drive. The coast road can be a bit tedious with traffic, I'd head out pretty early to get full satisfaction! Mick

Thanks for the confirmation Fellas I have a bunch from some old projects but can't remember what they came from as I've had a couple 1600 a couple 180B's and wrecked a 240K. I will replace the unis in a spare set then do a diff and half shaft swap once it's all ready to go, the plan is not to have it off the road for long. I just wasn't sure if they were the same length but now you've answered that. Thanks again. Mick

G'day all Just wondering if 1600 / 180B / 240K half shafts are compatible with 240z? Thanks in advance Mick

So does that suggest that the spring perch of a 240z / early 260z is slightly higher up on the strut compared to a later 260z strut??

Haha, great footage! Looks like you guys had a great time. More vids please.