Cozza

Sounds too easy, no photo needed Mate Thanks

IMO, that's not a bad looking trophy truck Maygz.

That's great news Adam. Can you let me know how much of the coil he cuts off, I have the Tokico illuminas and king low springs but not happy with the ride height, it sits about 20mm or so to high. Ill probably cut my springs to get it sitting better but I'm a bit nervous to cut without some input from others. Be sure to let us know when you're up for a break-in drive. Mick

Hey Maygz, I know it's been a while but any chance you could post a pic or maybe describe how you attached the vac, I've pulled the filter off mine now but can't find a good attachment to connect the vac to the box. Cheers Mate. Mick

G'day guys I'm looking for the throttle linkage from the firewall to the carbs as well as an original fuel rail, from the fuel pump through to the carbs. In Sydney but no probs paying postage. Cheers Fellas

G'day G Yep diff is in the car, I am using an OEM mount and the side axles from Beta Motorsports. I have given it a pretty hard time over about 1000 k's so far with no issues although there is a bit of play between the side axle and bearing on the drivers side. I have measured both the side axle and the StI axle to be almost identical. I don't have the tools to measure the bearing ID but like I said no issues or noises yet. Will look into it again sometime. I have the Torsen type LSD unit and have heard reports of them being noisy, but mine is quiet. Very happy with it locking up under acceleration, haven't had any issues with 1 wheel compression lock up under heavy braking either. (I think the Torsen Is only 1 way). Haven't had it on the track yet so not really pushing it. I spent $1000 up front including side axles and can now buy a replacement LSD diff less than 5 years old for about $400 if I ever need to. Also looks original to anyone that is not the most fastidious of enthusiasts. Overall I am happy with the outcome and would recommend it to others, but am a bit nervous about the play in the axle and once I find the culprit I will let yas know. Hope that helps but let me know if there is anything else you want to know. Cheers Mick

Hey Mate. Getting stuck straight in, good work. Looks like a nice example, good luck with the build. Haahaa Peter. I think your 2 years is up.

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=31737 Here's a link to a k wheel.

That's impressive Scoota, sounds like a game of Tetris. Everything bar the kitchen sink.

It's funny, I bought 1 of these for my young fella yesterday $2.50 from Target. Wouldn't have been more than a couple hours before this thread started. He also has a Toyota 2000GT in red. He thinks it is a Zed too.

Hey Roberto would you mind sticking up a couple pics. Cheers Mick

Yeah I do and I am looking forward to them getting some points. They have been very hot and cold so far this season, mostly cold. I know it's early days but I was hoping for another Godzilla hammering.

That's impressive. The wonders of technology! I must be getting old.

Righto that's great, so how did you create that link?

Probably a stupid question but, how do you translate the info in the link above into English? Mick

Hey Adam All the tricky awkward bits now hey. What colour are the wires? The wires I can think of in that area in my 9/72 are: speaker wires left white and white black Speaker wires right white yellow and white blue antenna blue white and blue red Tank sender yellow and black Fuel pump green and black and tail lights I've got a few different wiring diagrams, my car doesn't seem to match any of them but more a mix of all of them. Hope this helps cause I'm pumped to see your car on the road. If not post the wire colours Cheers Mick

They do look good, do you think they are painted or something else? Mick

Looks great Adam, congrats on a beautiful car. I agree, it could do with sitting a little lower. What springs are you using? I have recently installed the Kings low springs in my 240, which in my opinion sits good at the back but the front sits about an inch to high.

Wow that sounds like a good deal. I just got a quote from Sydney to Rockhampton for a running and roadworthy car for $1001. Maybe I need to get a few more quotes. Any ideas who I should use? Sorry for the hijack.

Any chance you might have an electric fuel pump bracket? Mick

Thanks Hodgo, sounds promising, I will look into that. Cheers Mate

Well its been ages since my last update, and a fair bit has been happening on the Zed but I will wait until I have decent photos before I indulge in the story. On another note, I have had to enlarge the stable, just bought a 1600, to be my daily. Datsun's are just in the blood. The 1600 is in very original condition bar the L18. She does need a bit of rust repair and some body work around the front right corner. Plan to bring her back to original without any major mods. If anyone has or knows where to find a decent RHS front guard and a bonnet please let me know. I'm in Sydney but happy to pay postage for decent panels. Cheers Mick

Dazzed, I think you are right for ECU'd cars however, I'm not sure nut I think that for some racing governing bodies, a fuel safety device is needed irrelevant of fuel delivery method. In regards to a pulse signal from the ignition, the research I have done shows most people use the -ve side of coil. I understand the -ve side of the coil has +12v most of the time (points closed) then switched to ground momentarily (points open). I can see that this is a definite signal change as it is grounded then not grounded. But, what I was attempting to achieve was reading the signal of change in current through the coil wiring. I figure there is a current draw only whilst the points are closed then the current momentarily stops while the points are open. So far it seems to be working. (I do have electronic ignition but it is the same principal) Also, as the relay is connected in parallel to the ignition circuit it will only draw the current it needs to operate, not the current that the coil needs. The only thing I am worried about is the tacho not reading correctly as I think it is a current sensing tacho and as I am drawing slightly more current (to drive the tachometric relay) the tacho may be slightly out. Not sure it is necessary to run the pump during cranking if you have carbs as hopefully the carbs will be full from the priming stage, Mind you this relay does only have a 2 second priming period which may be a little short so I may have to turn the key on and off a couple times, but I will find out soon enough. Six_Shooter, you are right about engine protection but this is not what I was trying to achieve at the time. Might be worth thinking about cutting the ignition when you lose oil pressure though. d3coy, I think Mallory recommend a 5a fuse for my fuel pump 4070LP. Also, I'm not sure if it is the wiring that was the problem with the original equipment or if it was switching/connections. I remember seeing a recall for the fuel pump kit from somewhere. Maybe in the workshop manual I downloaded from XenonS30 Here's is a couple pics of the relays I have installed as well as the signal wire I am using behind the tacho. The relay on the right of the fuse box is the tachometric relay which activates the relay on the left, which is the main relay for powering the fuel pump. The gas fitter I bought the tachometric relay from recommended not to draw too much power through the tachometric relay hence 2 relays but cheaper than most other options out there. Thanks again for your input Fellas

Well good news, a test drive suggests that the signal from the B/W wire at the tacho (supply to the +ve of the coil) is enough to trigger the relay. It seems to work fine. Hey Jake I used an AIROD gas safety switch about $15 from a local gas fitter, and then used a 40a relay behind that. Total cost was about $30 and an hour or 3 of my time. Not bad if you ask me. I will post a pic or two tomorrow. Can't upload pics from my phone.

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