Cozza

Bump

Well I finally found this issue and I can't believe it took me so long as it was something so silly. Turns out the wheel cylinder was seized. It was only about 2 years and less than 10 000 k's old. Should have had a closer look at it any one of the three times I stripped the brakes down to fix the problem, just couldn't believe that it would seize up so quickly. Just makes me realise that you should never overlook anything even if you don't expect it to be the problem. Mick

Hey Fellas thanks for all the input. I am installing an electric fuel pump and have heard rumours that the original wiring is not quite up to the job of driving the pump and a relay is recommended. Therefore I thought why not put in an additional safety measure of the tachometric relay to stop the pump from running in the case of an accident (engine stall). The relay I have is wired to the ignition switch (on position) as well as getting a pulse signal from the coil. This way the pump will run when the ignition is turned to on, for 2 seconds to prime the system and then again once the motor is running. I have installed the relay beside the fuse box which is also close to the original fuel pump wiring. I will run a wire to the coil if necessary but would prefer not to have to tape a wire all the way there if I can avoid it. Today I dummied it up using a long wire all the way to the coil (+ve side) just to see if it works. Turns out it does!! However I am still to test drive it, not confident yet but I have my fingers crossed. Six_Shooter an oil pressure sensing method is perfectly acceptable although the wiring would be very similar, also it is not as common. Also I am not too keen on passing wires through the firewall if I can avoid it. Will keep you updated on the progress but thanks again for all your input. Cheers Mick

G'day all I'm installing a tachometric relay to control my electric fuel pump but I am not sure where is best to get the pulse signal from the ignition. I would like to connect it to the tachometer if possible just because i dont want to drag wires out into the engine bay. Now I realise the B/W wire at the tacho is feeding the +ve side of the coil and I'm not sure if this wire will send a pulsing signal to the relay. I have a 4 wire tacho which I think is the current sensing type but I'm not sure and I don't understand how it works. Anyone know where i can get a signal from inside the cabin? Or do I have to go to the -ve side of the coil? Any help would be appreciated. Mick

Yeah I tried Weber performance in Vic and Hardimans up here in NSW but they are about $50+GST each. That's a bit steep if you ask me. Its not unusual to see a complete set of triples sell for around 1K. I have found Webcon (I think) in the UK who will deliver for almost half of sourcing locally. But I just figure it would be good to keep the money within the country if possible. Or even better in someone from the forums pocket.

Hey Fellas and lasses As the title states I'm after a throw out bearing carrier from a 260z or 280zx. I think a 240c or a 240k one will do the trick too. If you have one you can spare, please let me know here or PM. Cheers Mick

Good suggestion Jason, I gave that a run but have only found a set of 4 available I would prefer to get a set of 6 to be sure of identical profile. Any other ideas?

As the title says, I'm after a set of 6 - 36mm chokes for my triple 40 dcoe Webers. If anyone has some they don't need please let me know. Thanks in advance Mick

Interesting idea Gareth, I do want to keep it low so it doesn't have to suck too hard but I'll look at that. Cheers

Looks great Mossy, love the colour and wheel combination and am really impressed by your attention to detail in every element of the rebuild. Congrats on a job well done and good luck with the fresh Bub too. Mick

Check it out. http://www.smh.com.au/sport/motorsport/godzilla-returns-to-race-around-mountain-20130717-2q4i7.html

Thanks Dimitri, will do.

Hi Guys Anyone have an electric fuel pump bracket they could part with? Should look something like the one in the attachment I am in Sydney but happy to pay for postage Thanks Mick

Thanks Scoota, Anyone have a fuel pump mounting bracket they could part with? I'm in Sydney but happy to pay postage. Mick

Hi Guys I am going to install an electric fuel pump and was hoping you guys could show me some photos of where and how you mount yours. I know some zeds came standard with an electric pump but don't know how it was mounted, I can see there are some threaded holes in the cross member above the moustache bar but I think that might be a bit too high for a fuel pump. BTW, I have a Mallory pump that is supposedly not very good at sucking. Any ideas would be great, photos would be even better. Thanks in advance Mick

That's interesting, I have Mate with a 308 in a 929 and the steering on that is much lighter than my zed.

I have just replaced my tie rod ends and ball joints. Also regreased the bearings in the top hats. Seems to of made a fair bit of difference. I will have my rack rebuilt when I get round to pulling the motor out. Hope that will make it a bit better too. Not sure that is your problem but just a couple ideas.

I think a tachometric relay is what you are after here's a link to a description http://www.injectronics.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=134&Itemid=34 I have been told that these often can't handle the current draw of a fuel pump and a secondary relay is needed. But I guess that depends on the relay and the pump. Cheers

I know its been ages but do you reckon this could still be on the cards? Did the talks with Nissan happen? Would be a cracking event.

Can you select gears easily when the motor is NOT running? When the motor is running, does it make it any easier to select first if you pump the clutch pedal a bunch of times first?

Thanks for the input Fellas. Here's a link to the media I'm using now, I don't think it's sand but to be honest I've got no idea. http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Norton-Air-Sand-Blast-Gun-Grit-10kg/106800 Here's a link to the cabinet. I think it is a similar setup to an industrial one, no extraction though, just a filter on the air outlet on the side of the cabinet mind you it is from Super Cheap so you can't expect too much. I blow out the filter every 5 minutes or so but it is just too blocked and needs replacing, which I will do when I get some new media. I will definitely try lowering the pressure, at the moment I'm running about 80psi. http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Sandblast-Cabinet-Table-Top/285583 Generally I have used it for paint and rust removal on suspension items, getting ready for repainting. So is there different grades of garnet, should I get a coarse grade for my type of work? Thanks again Mick

Hi guys, I have a Super Cheap sand blasting cabinet and currently use the Super Cheap sand in it but it is so dusty that I can't see in the window. Its only seen about 10 hours of use and the filter is already blocked so the dust pumps out the door seal and makes me look like a minstrel. I'm wondering if this is normal or if the Super Cheap sand is just super crap. Or maybe it's the cabinet? What type of media do you guys recommend, and where do I get it from? Any suggestions are appreciated. Mick

Scoota, sounds good thanks Mate. I pick up the new pistons tomorrow so will get stuck into them then and see how I go. Will let you know if I need another set :-\ Dimitri, that's what I wanted to hear, got any photos of your spacers by any chance? Sounds interesting. Gav, the ones I'm doing are a spare set I bought off another member on this forum too. Bit of a pain in the rear that I had to connect them to the car to push the pistons out but, only took half hour or so to pump out all 4 pistons and bleed. I like the sound of powder coating and braided lines. I'm doing brakes and front suspension (kings & Tokico's), will paint all the bits up in satin black before it all goes together, same as I did to the rear end. Will post pics in my build thread once it's done. Thanks for your help guys. Mick

Thanks for your input fellas. Scoota, yeah I normally wouldn't have thought twice about it, just pulled them apart, but for some reason i looked at the FSM before i started. Gav, Try fitting up to the car and pump the brake pedal. That's what I did with these calipers as compressed air wasn't working (they had been sitting around for some time). The pistons are pitted and will be replaced but the caliper cylinders look fine. Anyone think of any reason why I shouldn't disregard the FSM and pull them apart? Maybe there is some issue with re-allignment? Mick

Hi Guys I'm about to rebuild the front calipers of my 240. The rebuild kits I bought have the seals that go between the two sides of the caliper but the Service Manual on XenonS30 suggests that you should not undo the bridging bolts, and if the seals leak replace the complete caliper. My question are, why would the rebuild kits come with the seals if you shouldn't undo these bolts? And what would you do, replace the seals or not? Thanks for any advice. Cheers Mick