Cozza

I recently had this problem in my 1972 240. I could turn the key but it would not turn far enough for the mechanism to lock. The lock barrel was a little bit worn but OK, although the lock mechanism (at the latch) was totally bound up with old lubricant and a bit of fish oil the PO had sprayed in the door cavity. I pulled all my lock mechanism out as well as the window and regulator, gave it all a good cleanup and lube then put it all back together with some new bailey channels for the window. It was not hard and worked a treat. Not sure how different 240 locks are to 260, but I can't lock my door then close it so probably a bit different. I don't imagine it would be any more difficult though I used a non oil based lubricant from Selleys (Ezy Glide) for the lock mechanism, I have not used it before but I think it will work well as it is not sticky like other oil based lubes I have used in the past, so it won't attract dust and dirt. Graphite dust for the lock barrel Will post some pics of it soon. Cheers Mick

I'm sorry to hear you had to go through that pete, I know it feels horrible to have things stolen from you. Glad to hear you have begun to recover some things and I hope you get it all back. Whatever happens, It would be a shame if some of your future posts were to be placed in a locked section, as I am a "Newbie" on this site with only a handfull of posts, and I assume it's people like me who are still to "prove their worth" as such, you would be excluding by placing things in locked sections. I love seeing your current projects and regard your experience and knowledge highly. Your posts give me inspiration for my project. Good luck for a full recovery Cheers Mick

Roger that, thanks Mate Mick

Reviving an old thread here but can someone confirm if a 260 2+2 rear screen will fit a 240z Thanks Mick

Hi Tim Just PM'd you regarding Black Dragon rubbers Cheers Mick

Do you think it could be something to do with cold start keeping the revs up? My 3.0l Navara holds the revs up when it runs cold. I notice it does this when I have been on the highway for a couple hundred k's. I figure my thermostat needs replacing. Could you have a dodgy temp sensor? Just a thought Mick

Ken Has the rear screen got demister wires through itand do you know if it will fit a 240? Will take it off your hands if it does. Thanks Mick

Thanks for the response Guys, Yeah I am loving having the car, it's been a long time since my last ride. Ive had a couple 1600's and 180b's as well as Mini's but I think this is my favourite yet. I'm going to take her down to Thredbo in a few weeks, will probably end up with a sore back but a BIG smile on my dial. Gareth, I'm interested in the KYB gas insert option. I guess you have them in your car, have you tried the Konis too? The KYB's would have to be cheaper than the Konis which is definitely a good thing, but other people I have spoken to reckon there is no alternative to Koni, I guess it is all personal preference. Also, to bend the plates back on the gauges, do I need to pull the guages out from behind? And, should the clear lens in front be loose or is it supposed to be glued into position? I started to replace the door lock barrels last night and ended up getting in deeper than expected. I pulled the window and regulator out as well as the whole door lock assembly. Gave them a good clean and lube. Will spray the inside of the doors with some fish oil to prevent the evil cancer. Have just ordered some Bailey channels from Rare Spares so will hopefully receive them soon so I can get it back together. Will post some photos later I have started to look at the rubber kits available, has anyone tried the Black Dragon rubber kit, its heaps cheaper than the kit from Rare Spares. I wonder if it's any good? http://www.blackdragonauto.com/features/z/zrs1.htm

Couple more pics

Hi Guys, I have been on the forum for a while now and I figure it is about time I started a build thread for my 240. I bought her from a friend back in January 2011, she had been off the road since 1999 and holed up in his garage under a car cover. This meant the body was generally in pretty good nick when I got her, with only some small rust spots on the guards. These will get a seeing to later on down the track. She had been broken into and the stereo had been stolen and the heater fascia broken. The original engine with matching numbers was seized, so I bought an injected 2.8 from a ZX and did a straight long motor swap but keeping the original round top Hitachi’s and L24 flywheel, but installed the electronic dizzy from the ZX. The original 2.4 motor is sitting in the garage waiting for some money to be thrown her way but will end up back between the strut towers eventually. After putting the new donk in, I fitted some new headers and had the exhaust tacked back together, replaced the rear wheel cylinders, flexible brake hoses and front and rear sway bar bushes and went for a blue slip (roadworthy). I expected to have a long list of repairs before gaining a pass but fortunately my only problems were slow wipers, no washer jets and noisy exhaust. After getting these bits and bobs sorted over the next 7 days (with a bit of handy info from zeds4ever) I took her back for a re-test and to my surprise, she sailed through no probs. Since then a couple problems have reared their ugly head. 1. Solid clunk from the diff. I have got another R180 240z diff and diff mount from Peter Allen (thanks Mate) haven’t got around to fitting them yet but is at the top of the list. Eventually want an LSD centre in there but that costs money. 2. Running rough. Turned out the front carb float level was high, I adjusted and problem fixed! 3. As mentioned earlier the heater fascia was broken and no stereo so I fitted a new head unit and put the heater fascia back together. There was a bit of dodgy wiring at the fan switch that I tidied up as well as fixing up the high beam flasher button 4. I have some 15 x 7.5 Performance Challenger wheels from an old 1600 and am keen to get them on there but they have 26mm positive offset meaning that the fronts rub the bottom spring seat and the rears only just clear but look a bit funny (they need to push out a bit). I need to get some spacers (about 10mm I think) but assume that means I need some longer studs. Does anyone know how to go about spacing the wheels out a bit? 5. Both front and rear suspension is pretty tired and will get a seeing to as time and money present themselves. The rear is far worse than the front so I will start at the back with some lowered stiffer springs from King or Lovell and possibly some Koni classic inserts. I am interested in finding out some more about the original wet legs. I am led to believe they were very good in there day and might be worth rebuilding them as opposed to replacing them. I would love some suggestions if anyone knows about rebuilding them. 6. The auxiliary gauge clear lens covers are loose and prevent the gauges from reading correctly, I think the covers are leaning on the needles and stopping them from moving freely. I’m not sure how to fix this, but it is something I want to get onto so I can monitor oil pressure and water temp correctly. Has anyone had this problem before? How did you fix it? 7. Gearbox synchros are stuffed. Not sure what I will do about this but is still driveable so is at the bottom of the list. The main purpose of the car is a weekend drive with an option for a bit of fun on track days, so I am after a sleeper look with some increased performance I’ve attached some photos, let me know what you guys think. Cheers Mick

Hey Stivva, yep confirmed thanks again. No paypal please pm your account deets and will sort you out asap. Good work on the order. I'm looking forward to delivery Cheers Cozza

I'll grab a pair of round ones if there is still room in the order. No 'Z' emblem if possible. I'm based in Sydney so can pick up. Let me know where and when to deposit money. Thanks

Sounds like a fun experiment, let us know what the outcome is.

Gday Ive recently been having a similar sounding problem of running rough at low throttle but great once your foot is into it. Car was really fumey and I found that the front 3 plugs were fouling during city driving but no probs on the highway. Turned out to be float level was way too high in the front carb. Just a thought. Good luck Mick

Hi Stivva Try giving your headlight switch a jiggle, sometimes mine plays up on me. If this doesn't help and you have original wiring (no headlight relays) then read on. I'm pretty sure Z's use a negatively switched headlight circuit meaning that once you turn on you headlights switch, your headlights always have power. They are fed directly from the fuse box (1 fuse for each side). The headlight switch does 2 things, 1st feeds the headlight fuses with power and secondly controls the negative and the dip switch then controls whether you are on high or low beam, again through the -ve. First disconnect the connector block at one of the headlights, you will find 3 wires/pins (1 for +ve and 2 for -ve). Now check using a test light or multimeter that you have +12v at 1 of the pins. If you don't have power then your problem lies at the fuse box or in the wiring between the fuse box and headlights. (me thinks not) If you do have power here, then using your multimeter, check for continuity between the -ve side of the battery and the other two pins at the connector block. Remember that 1 of these 2 does low and the other 1 does high beam so only 1 of these 2 pins can have a negative at any time. You should be able to toggle between them by switching between low and high beam. If you don't have a negative then your problem probably lies at either the headlight switch or dip switch. Hope this makes sense, good luck Mick

Oooh so many nice cars, so hard to limit this to just one but, the Aston Martin V8 Vantage has always been close to my heart.

Hi Guys I'm looking for wheel nuts to suit Performance Challenger wheels for my 240. Not sure if different wheels have different taper for wheel nuts? Any ideas? If anyone has some to suit please let me know. Also, any idea what the WIA 26P cast in to the wheel means? I was thinking it might have something to do with offset or similar. Thanks in advance. Mick

Not sure but I reckon bottom connector in the extension housing is for the speedo, the top switch in the extension housing is a neutral switch and the one towards the front of the box is the reverse light switch. They look the same as the ones on my Navara box and in the same locations. You should be able to tell if you have a multimeter and measure which switch is closed when you select different gears. Cheers Mick

Sorted, Got one through Peter Allen and got a peek at his beast in the making. Very impressive and thanks again Peter Thanks for your help guys

I'm looking for a front diff mount for my 240Z. Or a suggestion on where to buy one. Got through rego on the weekend, and took her for the 1st drive since I've owned her. The dreaded clunk was the first thing I noticed. Very happy to be back in a Zed. Thanks in advance, Mick

I received the washer jet today. Thanks Alan, you are a Saviour!! Also found a 240 wiper motor in good nick at All Z Parts, expecting to pass the blueslip and finally registered by the weekend. Thanks again Alan.

Good on ya Charlie, reading your thread makes me feel all nostalgic, thinking back to my first project of an early Mini when I was 15. Best of luck with it and never give up your dreams.

That's great thanks for that John I appreciate your time I will definitely have another look at that and see if it is worth correcting. After alot of time spent comparing my wiring to various wiring schematics and then testing, it seems that the fuse marked AC on the fuse box is protecting nothing other than the radio and now my fan. Considering it is a 20A circuit, this seems reasonable to me (haven't tested total current draw but haven't blown a fuse yet .) Originally that fuse would have powered the radio and the electric antenna, in some wiring diagrams it shows that it would have been the primary side of an accessories relay which then would have powered the blower fan. FYI, In doing such a thorough investigation, I have found some intersesting connector blocks: 1.) Behind and left of glove box, wiring for passing relay No 1 (connects high current earth to high beams) 2.) Below and right of steering column, wiring for passing relay No 2 (connects high current active to both headlight fuses) 3.) Near fuse box, wiring for rear window demister (no relay on this circuit) 4.) Near fuse box, wiring for fog light switch 5.) Near fuse box, 2 thick green wires powered by the ignition fuse circuit I assume to be seat belt warning light (still to be confirmed) 6.) Both DS and PS kick panels, wiring for lights to illuminate the foot well 7.) Behing gauges, wiring for hazard light switch 8.) Below and right of steering column, wiring for hazard light flasher can 9.) Wiring schematic most closely related but far from identical to my car is that from the '72 Nissan service manual I found at http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Just thought I'd give up what I've learnt. Thanks again.

Thanks for the reply John, I have searched at least 5 different wiring diagrams and couldn't find any that actually matched my 240, but more like a blend of all of them. I ended up connecting the fan to the same wires the po had it wired to (2 blues beside the drivers left knee). It is on the AC fuse switched on when key is in the accessory position, no relay though (not sure it draws enough current for one anyway). If anyone knows where the accessory relay is supposed to be, or what year model they came out on, please let me know. Thanks

Hi guys, I'm looking for a passenger side windscreen washer jet. please let me know if you have one spare and willing to part with it or know any repair techniques. The pipe the washer tube pushes onto is broken and the previous owner had just pushed the tube on to what was left hence the leak. Tried to put my 240 through a blue slip today and failed on leaking (broken) washer jet, slow wipers and exhaust too noisy. Bummer! Already had exhaust sorted, car is at the sparkies now getting wipers fixed. Just need a washer jet. Very Excited Thanks in advance Guys 21723_9cba99b232206a2808ea7018d9f90dbd12a96605.pdf