Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Huw last won the day on January 9

Huw had the most liked content!

About Huw

  • Birthday 09/07/1985

member details

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Where did you get it? I bought one from the US with base and general shape?quality very good. However, the glass/metal was not beveled and due to this it ‘flopped’ in the mirror frame while moving (admittedly, the dirt road on the way from where it is stored would loosen anything but still very unsettling). Think I solved with a bead of silicon but have not done many miles since. Car looks amazing in monochrome.
  2. Hi Years ago I removed my lighter finisher (chrome ring on fuse cover, not lighter) to get a 12v accessory socket to fit in flush. As part of cleaning up my centre console I have reverted top stock (looks better - undoing crimes of youth/first restore). Anyway, for the life of me, can't find it (we have moved a number of times in interim). Does anyone have any ideas where to get the finisher or something to use for it? Otherwise will probably try to make in two pieces (angle of tubular section join means would be hard to do in one) on lathe and solder together. Huw
  3. So, I am in the process of restoring my 71 console, which is fairly good. Only a couple of areas that warrant attention being: - holes at the back; - previous owner drilled holes (clean but may fill) (at least I think they are po drilled - happy to be corrected - 4 holes in `bow shape`) —->edit—> looking at Gav`s photos confirms suspicion. - two broken sections (missing) at top of gearshift hole and at bottom of fuse box hole. [first photo is top of gearbox, second fusecover] Two queries: With the last item, just wondering if anyone has a photo of a 71 underside that shows these as I want to confirm if there is a cut out on the top of the gearshift section or if I can just path in a single piece. Photos may be clearer. Edit —> subject to correction, Gav`s photos suggest both were single pieces and complete (ie no cut out at all). The reason I asked was that the top of gearbox `cut out` Looked very regular - as if properly cut. Second, I am thinking that the two holes at the back were always a weak point and to use the lathe to make up two metal pieces that will take the bulk of the countersink and to fiberglass these pieces in. Stupid idea or workable fix? — As a 71 there appears to be a fair proportion of fiberglass in the console compared to a later 240. Plan to primarily fiberglass the repairs rather than attempt too heroic a plastic weld. Had thought of reinforcing sections but concerned re creating new stress points in old console. Thanks Huw
  4. Not sure what year your antenna is - but mine was a 'pointy tip' one. The antenna tip actually screwed off (which saved me from breaking it but meant that I was paranoid about it 'disappearing' in the shed (despite being labelled and in a zip lock!). This then lets you slip the final piece of the mast out. The upper sections of the mast were a pain in the neck as they are fragile but I don't appear to have destroyed it. Would be interested if you know of any source for the 'finger washer' as mine is unwell (useable...barely). Correct me if I am wrong but does it function to improve the ground for the mast? Shortly to do a rubber part order to finish this job and will then turn to the original radio. Although, I am in two minds - if I recall right it still has the original chalk marks - so I don't want to clean them off - but I do want to make sure it works. H
  5. Yes, I did some reading on some of the manufacturers sites that had a note about this. Some suggested about 80 in location is about all you want. Need to read a bit more and measure it to confirm. Ideally on a hot day. Airflow not great at that point but there is plenty of distance between it and any really hot parts.
  6. Hi all As always, when the budget is tight planning how to spend what comes in! 240z's battery unwell (disuse) and needs replacing mid term. Question is do we upgrade to AGM or lithium? Whatever I do, an isolator is going on to prevent discharge. Two reasons for wanting to get away from lead battery: 1. Longevity 2. Corrosion risk on restored zed. For those that have looked at it, any suggestions? Currently doing reading and my conclusion so far is that if money no object, go straight to lithium. If money is, a compromise (that is not too big a cost or too great an improvement) would be an AGM battery. Obviously, neither looks stock and will most likely need new mount. Huw
  7. Hi Just deciding whether to build own or replace existing with stock 240z one. Anyone know if these parts still available from Nissan (will call in NY) or do you have to make a donation to FedEx / USPS to get from states? I know they are readily available from parts suppliers in the US. H
  8. If no one has answered re chalk inscription, it says o-suto no.1, which I assume is shorthand for Australia No.1 (オーストラリア). I have Simar chalk marks on the radio from my car.
  9. So, I am too lazy to fibreglass this but we have another zed with a good tail light access panel for copying for the interior of my 240z (I have a new rear panel but either the little access panels were never with it or they were lost). Wondering if anyone has experience with 3D scanning and printing in Melbourne in ABS plastic? May be more expensive than building a mould but I really hate fibreglass....(read: I make a god awful mess and don't get the result I want) Huw
  10. Thanks, that was the conclusion I reached as well with a bit more reading. One up leaves an odd bolt. Time-sert appears to be an easier install but doesn't really offer any structural advantage to a helicoil (despite the marketing). Familiar with helicoil so that will be the go. H
  11. Hi all, In changing diff strap and mount noticed that 2 of the bolt holes for the front diff cross member partially stripped. Passenger far side is worst but passenger inner is not 100 either. Neither will torque down fully. Hasn't been apart (by me) since restored in '06 as a uni student - so may be one of the many crimes of inexperience. Or I can say it was the PO who installed the blue shag felt over the vinyl....(long gone!) I believe it goes straight to body rather than to a captive nut. So the decision is: - drill out and tap one bigger; - helicoil (M10,1.25), Erring on the helicoil route but welcome any views from those with more knowledge than me. Don't think the loctite and hope is a good option! Photo pinched off another forum illustrates location. View on that one was 'timesert'(??)
  12. Maybe I had a long day. Strangely mesmerizing.
  13. Plenty in theory / on paper - in reality always hard if you want to get the car finished and don't want the cost of someone else doing it.
  14. Revisited this recently with the line trimmer. Will see how it works. still need to service the motor and. Heck gears. antenna mast was a pain. The brass connector that joins the final metal road and the plastic extender coil is a tight fit and wouldn’t go back in. Had to clean and lightly sand to get back in. I will be buying the rubber bits from 240zrubber parts. H
  15. Congrats Gav, My 2 y.o loves the how to modify your L series engine book with the flying trucks. Mum says I am brainwashing him! I call it preparation. she thinks I won’t try it with our 5 m.o. daughter! Garage time harder but a fair trade off! Enjoy it.
  • Create New...