dat2kman

The two sections,( top and bottom) are both different, LHD vs RHD At least in the 280/260Z

There is another manufacturer of flank grip, ( not point gripped) sockets/spanners, "Metrinch) The one socket will do imperial and metric, with force applied omly on the flats of the nut/bolt. Anything with rounded points, is easily undone! Can be hard to find. I have a full 1/2" drive set, as well as the spanner set, bought some 25 years ago!

The yellow one in Redcliffe, yes, i watched it get loaded yesterday, off to Bundaberg, to be restored.

Heres the fun bit,,, depending on the thickness of the bellhousing flange/bosses, you may need different length shanks and threads, as, Nissan had variations in the bellhousings. A bolt may "look/feel" like it is tight, but it may have bottomed out in the tapped thread in the block.

What suburb in Brisbane are you? Theres a couple of guys that may be able to do the rust removal/replacement work, it wont be cheap. Mal Gay ( GayBilt), Rob Vines at Burpengary, Craig Cambell ( CC Customs -Caloundra) Senko in Kenworth pl Brendale, are a bigger shop, but can do this as well.

Advert says sold? Heres one up at Redcliffe. I have looked at this, it seems to have been fish-oiled in the usual places to stop rust, couple of minor rust blisters on the dor tops, and guard tops, its a manual, but clutch is pretty buggered. Newish dashpad, electrics all work. Its a $5k car, he's getting some interest too! https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woody-point/cars-vans-utes/1979-datsun-280zx/1149372202

280ZX Minor rust pimples,, have inspected this, 5 speed owner reckons box is worn, its more the clutch though! Dash top looks to have been replaced, upholstery s worn Starts, runs, drives ok, all electrics work. Located Brisbane North. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woody-point/cars-vans-utes/1979-datsun-280zx/1149372202

Geez, arent these prices skyrocketing! I sold a pair around 12 months ago, at $180, had been advertised for a few months too!

"Nil by mouth" is what the nurses write.

With the Datsun Sports Roadster Nationals on, the following weekend, on the Gold Coast, there should be a few of these at JapShow!

More than one Heenan & Froude engine dyno getting around? Few in NSW, and still being used, up until a few years back. I recall Lou being quite chuffed at 232 HP from a U20, fitted to a Prod Sports 2000 some 8 years back My car ran rings around it when we got to play together, not long after. But, yes, its all bullshit!

Ask Peter about the Mingay/Carter Datsun 2000, and the Porter Brothers car. Peter punted his 2000 pretty hard!

Gasoline Alley is very busy, Senko in Brendale has done a few Z's, and knows them Rob Vine in Burpengary, and Craig Cambell in Caloundra ( CC Customs) are old school type shops.

Jon, in Brisbane, (tir31) parts out cars that often has the R200 LSD diffs, complete, usually Skylines, or otyers. They are genuine factory units, but bear in mind they do not have the full complement of inner/outer clutch plates. An easy solution, if you really need to, but, for generals use, and a little bit of track use, as they are they are fine! As long as you keep your existing 260Z R200 input shafts, ( mark them L&R to save confusion when re-installing ), and your standard half shafts, its a straight bolt in. Unless you are a massive HawsPowaz Queen, with a permanent garage/shed ornament car, you do not need CV shafts, and their compnion flanges conversion,,,,,

Richard doing those super fasts,??, and lapping in the over 3 minute mark!!! You are not as quick as you try to convince everyone you think you are. It shows up on the consistent lap times You want facts? Well fact off on these numbers! On gearcalc, using RPM at lift off point, just before tip in to Kink, In a four cylinder bluff fronted car, ( Datsun 2000) with no wings/aero, speed is 230-235kph, with lap times of 2.43 The GpS 280 Z was at same speed, but lap times of 2.45 ( heavier car, slower getting out of the corners) The current lap record, for any Datsun Z car, at Bathurst. is held by Wayne Potts, in a 260Z, a Group S car, yes, all pretty standard, stock cheescutter brakes, 6" tyres, at 2.41:6 Robertsons 3.2 litre triple carbed, big braked ( a sports sedan) managed a 2.38, but was mostly 2.40's this is not a lap record

Have you left the eccentric fuel pump actuator ring off? If so, put it back on, or a large hardened steel washer. Its supposed to hold the sprocket in in place.

Agno, Don't worry, he has no bloody clue. "Going through Kink flat out and not braking" Sure,,,,,,

All I remember is that I stalled it, rolling backwards, the sound of gravel flicking up off tyres, watching you lot come at me through the dust, thinking which one is gonna kiss my nose, and, i am hearing a tearing metal thumping banging, goung on somewhere behind me.The Ginetta went across my bow,,, You just wait till it ends!

You wanna see/hear the footage/comment, from John Bowe. He ended up with broken ribs. When I raced, there was always that constant underlying thought, "Will something break, Will someone hit me, Where is everyone else around me, Whet are they doing???" You tend to back off a touch, run at 8 or 9 /10ths Unless one has done this, you will never have a full understanding. There are plenty out there that think they know it all. It isa bit scary, the first few laps, a Standing start, a Rolling start, the squeal of a locked brake right next to your open window, into a corner, or your very own " shit shit shit" moments, that you yourself instgated When you lose the ability to control your destiny, after an incident, you rapidly realise you are just flesh and blood, and can't do a damn thing, and hope that each hit, is not hard.

The popping is due to camshaft duration and overlap, you now have an exhaust system larger, that has less back pressure, thus allowing unburnt fuel to pas through the slightly open exhaust valves. With back pressure, the unburnt fuel was more kept in the cylinders. Little bit richer, on mixtures, back timing to 14 or 12 btdc, then check plug colours and run a range or two different, to decrease the plug fouling. BTW, we visited your country last year, then a run through the Canal. Also Costa Rica, Nicaragua, great beaches, best barbeques, and amazing wildlife! Just regular tourists!

holding it vertical and smacking it, bit like a newborn,,,, I just sit it on a bench, and using a decent soft hammer, work around the bellhousing, (at the bolt hole locations to back of motor) It eventually opens up just enough, to put a widest flat blade screwdriver or biuggered wood chisel, into the opening, and lever it around

We ran into this problem with dirt rally cars,waiting at time controls in hot dry conditions. We tried the insulation wrap, like you have, it made it much worse. Remove that insulation wrapping, fit extensions onto the arms that the fuel rail is mounted to, to lift it higher, and bend it away from the rocker cover, and the heat rise from exhaust. That worked OK, except on very hot days, then the problem came back. Increasing idle, speed helped, as it allowed more fuel flow. We had to run a cast iron manifold, under Production Rally Car rules, we had it ceramic coated, to try to contain the heat. Yes, a full length heat shield, that fitted as far into the spaces between intake manifold and exhaust manifold, and have that ceramic ( Heatproof) coated. If you are using standard mechanical fuel pump, have the rubber lines to/from it, held further away from rocker cover. We ran twin electric pumps ( one was a backup) at rear, and ran fuel line up to top edge of firewall, along, up into a fuel pressure reg, and then, from inner left hand fender, into the carbs, with overflows running back along same route, this was all to keep it as cool as possible. It worked. Good luck!

You weren't able to get bigger tapped holes and fittings into it, like around 3/4" ones? You'll work out that you just overfill it, by half a finger width on the fill hole, and run an extended vent tube, straight up through the floor, into a small can, then vent line up around and back down and out. Solves foaming, bubbling up, expansion etc.

Do these new versions of the small handbrake caliper still use the multi start coarse thread rotating pin, that exerts force to the inner pad, to then have calioer cading pull in, to then cause outer pad, to clamp the disc? Fitted one of those, above, useless bloody thing, contacted AZC, never replied. Sure, they will hold a car, on a horizontal dead flat bit of road, against a tail or headwind. But lean on the tail of the car, and it starts to move. Even with a hardened steel washer between coarse threaded pin, and the pad backing, as the pin started to chew into the backing plate of pad. How is the new design different?

Of the numbers of sets of pads I have come across, only one set, NOS asbestos based, had a set of shims in the box. These weren't Nissan branded. I have one set of modern aftermarket higher temp range set, and one set of original Ferodo DS11 compound ( asbestos), for the rally car Other than the very slight reduction in heat transfer into piston, and that would not be very much, they dont seem to need the shims.