dat2kman

CAMS Qld office has a register for car race numbers. This is for cars that are intended for acing purposes. CAMS Competition license holders advise Qld State office of their desired number. I used to have 28, 66 and 13 However, none of the above applies,so stick whatever numbers you want on it, and at your first Sprint/Lapdash day, they'll allocate youa number that goes on top left corner of screen, and require you to put a bit of tape over your painted on numbe, so that the stopwatch guy doesn't get confused.

Alexander, if you want to try a 225/50x15 on a 15x8 at +4, I have a few sets, You can throw them on, then jack up diagonal corner and look/feel for any issues. That will give you a good indication what a wider, by 4mm rim, will then do I also have some 205/50x15 mounted that you can check for clearance. I'm up on the Peninsula. Bring one of your rims for me to look at the inside hub face.

The regular size on tye Perf Ind Superlites s 15x8 with a +4 offsett. With a 225/50x15 the guard lip does get ht. With the rims at 0, and your desired tyre, yes, it will get cut into the sidewall, badly. A fair bit of trimming of the guard lip will be needed, and, at a fair amount of bump, the top edge of tyre will hit the inner guard, that wont he too much of an issue. Maybe consider a 205/55 tyre, something a bit narrower in tread, but at 55 aspect, it will pull in a bit. Another option if there is sufficient meat in the hub backside, have it faced off by say 4 or 5 mm Wheel Revolution at Slacks Creek has the facility to do this.

Slide some jet drill shanks into them, see if they have been redrilled. If side air hole has been filled, the previous tuner may have just relied on the first stage progression tube for air to bypass the closed butterfly, sometimes done with high breathing engines.

The Fairlady continued into the S130 range, as a Fairlady-ZX Non-power steering front end, L20AE engined Assume done to meet the under 2 litre reduced registeation cost in Japan. I parted a 2/2 out some years ago, fender mirrors, badging, bumpers, interior all a bit different. It had the id tag as L20A But engine had been swapped out fora 2.8 injection motor, it had a heavy R200 diff fitted, brakes were regular S130

Try 7800 rpm down Conrod, with 225/50x15 tyres, and 0.83 fifth,,,,,,,

Most of us racey/targa guys use a free basic downloadable program by Peter Ogden, called Gearcalc.Enter into known data, it spits out things like max rpm speeds, max torque speeds, rpm drops on each gear upchange. Then start playing around with input data, ie diff ratio, tyre size, gear ratio, peak hp rpm, peak torque rpm,,gets quite informative, certainly for different tracks Re gearbox fifth gear, there are a few available,from a long legged loping 0.752, a 0.832, a 0.85, and a expensive 0.89, which gives the least amount of rpm drop on 4>5 upchange, keeping engine at peak torque (race/rally/tarmac thing!) Back to the OP, the lowest cost performance upgrade will be diffratio change, add in a lsd. Next a gearbox change to an early 260Z box, the one with the 2.9 first gear. He can leave the stock 5th of 0.83, but, if hwy running is a concern, swap it out for a 0.75 fifth gear ( btw I have a few of those if peeps are chasing!) Next, go to work on suspension and brakes. I''ve just saved him $10,000, and the car will GO, Stop and Turn!

Or run a bigger diam rim with a tallertyre, effective ratio change right there, to reduce hwy cruise rpm. Throw on some fat low profile rubber for the fun stuff!

Little bit damp up there, cyclone has blown internets away,,,

Very difficult to have a compromise car! You say initially 0-100kmh fun But, then concerned about rpm at cruising speed What do you want, vs what can you put up with?

You say you want better 0-100kmh capability?? Leave it alone, and just throw in a 4.4 ratio R200 diff. Live with that for a few months, then maybe re-visit your "budget plan" above. Far easier, quicker and cheaper way to get what you almost want.

Who's race car? Beneficial for endurance events, ie longer than 10 or so laps of proper racing. Helps to keep LSD plates operating correctly. Otherwise, tig weld a thick plate heatsoak onto a diff cover, and/or run a seperate pump and cooler.

Richo, the racing expert! When we ran the rally Z in mid '80's, we welded a second threaded boss below the stock fill to this level boss, as the bottom drain outlet was pitentially able to be broken or bashed flat, used hi temp 1/2" id hose, into a Jabsco brand hi-temp capable pump,then into a cooler up front. It was manually controlled once it got hot, as coolish oil was very slow moving and the pump strained. Did a diff cooler setup the same, that pump really struggled, until hot. Had theooler core tucked up on LHS behind halfshaft, with mesh guards. Car was used in Rally Australia, and then went on to win the NSW State Rally champs We also ran long breather tube up into engine bay, with a basic plastic fuel filter to stop sucking in dirt/water etc at creek crossings. Diff breather, a hose up through floor pan, a pladtic filter, and vented to fuel filler door. We basically copied what the Nissan Group A race cars were doing, but no need to use expensive Aero type hoses, as it was all protected by bash plates. Gearbox didn't really seem to benefit, but the diff especially on long 40-60 km dirt sections, very much helped, as the LSD would go "loose"

Theres a well proven current championship winning IPRA car for sale at $19,000 Now that is a "fair dinkum race car" !!!

As a Sports Sedan, it'd a backmarker, and a very expensive one at that. You're not quite up there with that whole scene, even though you seem to make out you are. There are far better purpose built quicker Sports Sedans, built properly, that will cream this, at 1/3 rd to 1/2 this price. Richo, we all know you limited capabilities when it comes to racing, basically, nil, The last blokes that had very good ability when it came to building these era Nissan proper race cars, were Carling and Bailey, and, let me tell you, they were not at all built like this one, or, your still born experiment. This car, as Dave says, would be a fine sprints car, to run at any track, to belt in 1.32's at EC ( track layout not mentioned, and 1.02's at Wakefield, both of which quite a few of us have a bit of knowledge of, is not at all too shappy. Just like the Regularity road cars that punch out 2.35's at Bathurst. Most can put together a 2 lap screamer, but very few can then use that car at race events.

Log booked as an IPRA car, but now modified. Only good for Sprints , or in an AASA run race meeting as a Sedan.

Its a common old regular 71B type gear lever. Wont fit the earlier 71 A or later 71C Found in Skylines, Bluebirds, 240K, 260/280z-zx,etc etc

From $500, and anything upwards from there. All depends on how quickly you want it gone. $1000, it can sit for a while, be patient!

You'd be pleasantly surprised how well road tyres, if pumped up to 40-45 si perform in the wet. Most will sipe water out, and, at that pressure they almost "crown" so that they are in good contact with the surface. N a wet day, i'd swap over the 225/50x15 almost slicks, at 18-20 psi, for some 185/60x14 roady type rubber, at 45 psi, in tye twitchy in the wet Datsun Sports 2000, and i'd off like a robbers dog! Still moves about, but very controllable So, Mick, yes, go for it!

Later version

Have a few sets, can pack n post. What are you wanting to do to them?

Messaged you elsewhere with measurements.

Watch the cheap hydr go jacks, the seals crap themselves. I just leave them with pin in and use them as rolling dollys. The supercheap ones use a steel cast wheel, slightest uneven floor, a bit of rubbish, a joint line, they hang up/baulk, often leave skid marks on perfect floors! Maybe a hard h/d nylon type would be nicer?

Google up info on the std specs on that piston, should be something somewhere. Stroke at 79, slock L28 rod at 130mm, subtract that from stock deck height, to give you piston height Cant recall exact numbers, but, if you throw in a set of 133 mm rods from a L24, you can run a piston 3mm shorter than stock, Reckon that the modern VG and others will have shorter height pistons?

2.48 hey,,,, saw you were mostly in the over 3 min bracket,,, You'd best keep that to yourself, considering,,,,