dat2kman

You just dont want to be embarrased with all the "gunna be da fastest" talk! Btw time attack is purely one single flyer, after 1-2 warm ups, at least in a Supersprint, you can pretend you'll be racing,,,,,,,

Used to drive trucks! It so that their Jatz Crackers can get a bit of fresh air!

Alan Edwards in the ex McLurkin car. Few others as well! Ranald Snr in the TVR in 3rd 2nd is a Nagari. The Mark 7's were all Holden Six powered, usually a 186ci motor.

That rim is from the Volvo 242GT Theres a fairly quick historic Group T race car up this way, but not as quick as the Datsun! As these ran Torana suspension and mechanicals, the rear axle to body pick-up points were not condusive to good handling. The guys on the Bolly-ablog should be able to assist. I knew a few of these and the owners, when they raced. Ranald McLurkin Snr, was the gun driver, his car was sold to Alan Edwards, who was a teacher at a school i attended. It was this very car, that gave me the impetus to start racing. Alan would bring it along to the school for our elective subject "Mechanics" which I did. I wasnt an academic type!

Was it misty?

Use silicon spay to ease assembly, yes, have car at static ride height before fully tightening. If tightening at full droop, by time bits move to full bump, the potential to tear/shear the poly is much greater. Grease, be it rubber assy, or the poly type inert grease will attract grit/dirt, and become a grinding paste. The poly bushes that are fitted to the inner of the LCA's may have a shoulder, this will contact the crossmember, when bolt is tigthened, the silicone dry lube spray s enough to stop binding. Be aware some poly bush products are hydroscopic, ie they absorb moisture from air, over time, and turn to poly-crumble

Grab that. The ones i have are the earlier type, with the push on style heater hose fitting

$1000 or so, for that one. What are they worth? From $500 to $20,000, it does depend on a few things!

No, i dont think there are all that many z31 boyfriends out there, dont seem to be many that are nagging, or was that gagging!

I'll have a look, see what turns up, may take a day or two!

Got your message. Post up a pic of the outlet, including the broken bit. There were a few different ones on later cars.

Are those duration figures advertised or at 50 thou valve lift? Will need to stipulate that.

Front wheel Drive applications!

Ha ha, a Mighty Boy amongst the zzz's! Too hot today, most were going by 10.30

I heard of a block, recently had been cleaned, then Sonic tested, the sonic tests were very revealing, in that this virgin block, had more than enough wall thickness, to be able to take 90.-91 mm pistons. That block was onsold for $1000, Its a bit of a lucky dip, as only around 1 in every 20 are that thick in the bores!

Hey, when you work out the S12 hilux caliper is all you need, I have a pair I can send you!

You need to read a bit more,,,,,,,. .

The tricky bit is getting the correct emulsion tubes to reduce, as much as possible the inherent stumble, due to reversion, that occurs in the 3800-4200 area, depending on cam overlaps. It can be done, hey just need to be willing to swap the emulsions. Groundhog, was that the place you drove me to, a while back?

In Beach St Kipparing, directly opposite Dave Ferons shop, is a carby place, cant recall its name. I'd suggest finding out who they are then ask what others thought. I dont know them. Another mob down Southside is Carb N Ject, they used to do only trade, but know do retail customers direct, have heard some ok reports from them. Jim not doing them anymore?? I have a couple of those old ratty baseline start off charts, somewhere,,,,

Gareth, why do you think you need a rear sway bar,and, a stiffer rear sway bar? When racing, i ran a standard rear bar, and a thicker front bar, and would adjust the stiffness on front, by moving the drop links fore/aft, The rear, by simply backing off the nylock nuts, it would reduce prpensity to oversteer, and also allow the car to "flop over" before bar started to work, ( good for wet tracks) Spring were 250-275 front, 225-250 rear, a stiffer front, say 300-325 would have been preferable, as the front bars drop links could have been backed off a bit more if needed. We cant easily fit blade adjusters to the bars in a Z, unless its custom fabricated, but unless you are after the nth degree, why would you need them?

Commn fitment of 4.375 ratio was to tye DR30 model Skylines.

Yes! He forgot the Brinel drop hardness test, along with the dye crack test, in the second vid,,,,,

It is not at all difficult to stroke a stock L28 crank, and retain standardish journal sizes, with spray welding and grinding. It will have needed shorter height pistons fitted to compensate. Ignore the casting marks, and measure piston mvement. Shoving a bit of stick into spark plug hole isn't accurate, due to angularity from the vertical. Needs a bit of Pthagorus's theory to calculate the "rough" 84mm as the hypotenuse, to bring it back to an approximate verical. That angle is about 18-22 degrees.

Use box/caravan trailer 7 core Run one legth to rear of car, one length for front. Use relays for switching heavy loads ie headlamps, wipers. Use a seperate much heavier twin fig 8 for fuel pump. You'll need to ascertain the load for the electric steering, it may need relays and seperate feed.

You might have to pop up to my new shed, i have a upper/lower in vgc.