dat2kman

No probs!Place is up for sale, only there Tue & Fri, 10.30-2.30, doing yard work,, mowing, pool, and packing up the shed.

Sorry! Both the ones I have are for Right Hand door!

The 2 seaters were split 52-54% front, and, 48-46% rear ( discovered when corner weighing a stock 260Z) No idea on a +2 sorry, but ts going to be fairly close to that, as the meat was added in front of rear axle c/line

I have both a long, and a short one. Main issue,,,, are they left/right, and which! If i remember, when I get back on Friday, I'll check,,,,

The registered for road use Nissan 24 and 260 Z rally cars ( note, not for circuit racing!) ran the akobe Seiko 14"x7" rims, as supplied, and fitted, by Nissan Japan. A number f these cars did end up being registered for se in Australa, and they had these same Kobe Seiko rims, at 7" This is where the historical Z brigade chime in! Simple fact is, they were road registered, they had to comply with whatever transport authourity rules, at the time were. These were cars built from 1970 to 1975 The USA Nissan 280Z ( not the ZX !) in the end of its production life, may have had 6" rims fitted. The "Black Pearl" version? Anyway, you need one of the "historians" here, Al Thomas, Gav Doolan, Carl Beck, to give you some sort of "vehicle spec sheet" that shows that these 7" rims, were fitted and supplied, on brand new, ready for road registration 240 & 260 Z's .

Pinty were a 4 Cylinder, CA 18- CA20 motor, bellhousing bolt pattern and gearbox orientation is wrong for a L series engine. You need to use a L series bellhousing, this will bolt onto the Pinty centre plate/cluster. Yes, it's overall length is 50 mm longer than regular L series box ( need to shorten tailshaft), the mount plate for the box to bdy crossmember is set back 30mm, compared to a stock L series bx ( need to modify crossmember - bit of welding cut'n'shut !) As El Lurchos said, ratios are standard, or can be, worse, ie 1st gear can be 3.52, rather than 3.3! Easy fixed with a drop in close ratio gearset, but you'll need a shorter ratio diff!!

Dip hole, with cap. Pour in 20L, mark a bit of dowel Lght, simple, no fuss

Put a hold on that .1 lsd, the chap I sold the race car to, might be keen? I have messaged him to conact you

Can get the cams drilled to make them internal oiled CliveCams in Melbourne can do this. Saves a bit of mucking around, fitting external oiling cam towers, plus, the spray bars have a nasty habit of the ends falling off.

The rally guys very much like that fuel mat thing! Needs a cell with a large enough inspection/sender/return hatch to get your arm and a spanner into, to then run the outlet with a gasket and locknut, on the outside.

Most cells should have a drop sump, and two outlets, you could run a 044 direct ( filter between), but, better to run a filter, into a ,low pressure pump into a 2L surge pot, then a 044, with return from engine back into pot, and a top o/flow back into tank. No fuel starvation that way.

Has demister fitted, and good tinting film applied Glass only $50 Pick up Brisbane Nth West

Standard, factory fitted. Rules allw holes for cooling, on rears. To keep up the front, you will boil fluid, turn pads into apple crumble, and warp discs. Add in there, severe radial micro cracks, and cracks to drum linings. Treat them as consumables. Funnily enough, when running in Sprints etc, against the massive bg braked 4 wheel dsced Z's runnng triples, bg mtrs etc, The Group S repped Z's are as quick, if not quicker. That is satsfying.

I've jst ntced, you're in D-Bay! I'm in process of relocating to Kippring ATM most f my bits are still at The Gap.

You solved it!

Pretty easy to check if swapped backings, the handrake mech slo mst be to lower rear. As above, check your top cone adjster, lining thicknesses, F linings are lw, and too much slack on adjster, this can cause the piston in slave to over-extend

You want an A, a B or a C type? there could be someone closer to you to help you out?? I can supply C type 5 speeds, that are only suitable for Kameari close ratio gearsets. Can supply, or supply & fit the CR sets You will need a L bell. Only have 1xB type, four speed, avail, and plenty of internal componentry for A type boxes.

Have seen it done, with no adverse issues. That would help to "break" the gaseous bond, theory similar for the slotting of disc rotors.I did mine on the front face, and chamfered the holes, to reduce possibility of stress risers. 3/4". x 6 holes,

The mount boss on both RB20 and the longer S13/14 boxes, are both in same position, relative to the front edge of the extension housing. Ie, set 30mm further rearwards. (71C "Stumpy" type are not !) The stick on the S13/14 s further rearward than the RB20, you also need to shorten tailshaft. RB20, you dont shorten tailshaft. This Sunny crossmember solves this issue on a 240Z type floorpan, other option is to drill to fresh holes into floor, use stock 240Z bx crossmember, but, a pair of 6mm 75x50 mm plates on the inside, is a good idea.

There are five different height thrust bearing carriers. You can machine up a spacer ring to fit over carrier, before pressing bearing on, up to 4mm thick. Other option is to drill a hole in the depression on the clutch fork, and, using a decent shanked bolt, of appropriate length, cut off hex head, round it off, to fit into slave cyl, other end, machine up a rounded collar, approx 10mm long, fit two hex nuts, onto threaded portion, slip collar, fit into slave/fork, and adjust nuts/locknut up, till the clutch fork has just a few mm of freeplay A spring to hold fork towards slave cyl, helps keep thrust brg off clutch cover teeth.

Me. I pulled the handbrake on one/two clicks, to give a bit more pedal height. Have you ensured the adjuster cone at top of backing plate has the tops of the linings snug to the drums? I used "taxi" grade linings, hard, but stable, and would go out to 231 mm at this diameter, i would get odd "H" shaped cracks in the drum lining. There used to be a popular "motorsport" lining, known as "Jolly Green Grabbers" for the greensh colour, when new, these worked very well. You'd need to find an old guy at an old brake re-lining shop, who may recall these! Maybe try some fresh thicker linings, give them a chamfer on leading/trailing edges, but have the new linings correctly radiused to suit the drum ID, to ensure correct full contact. I used to race in Group S, (aka, the Drum Brake Brigade!)

That Burns built head will be very good. He has been around a long long time, and knows his stuff. In SA t was either Pete Hall, or Barry Burns, you went to, to get good stuff done. FWIW, i recently sold at $7500 a RTA complete long motor, built to circuit race spec, forged etc etc, lightened etc etc, head xtensively modded etc, no inlet/exhaust. What you are asking s not unreasonable. Anyone who knows their shizzle, and understands componentry will see the value, without the need ror "dyno" numbers.

Pic is of a 260Z assy Showing the two hangers, the Transverse link, and the two LCA bushing bottom clamps. I have the transverse link for a R180 in a 240Z. It is straight, ( nt curved, as shown!)

I have 1x bottom transverse link suit 240Z This is the item that the rear of the lwer arms, with their bushes, bolts up into. I may have the vertical hangers, will need to look,,,,,

Some sway bar maker does a vague multi-hole "blade" type bar for the S30, it comes with ungainly S shaped links, and a 90deg bit f angle that bolts to topside of LCA. Piss off the S shaped link, and fit a male/female double Heim type rod end. I have a pair of these, they come with the machined ferrules, to prevent the fastening bolts, from smacking the living crap out of the precision rod ends. $150 Yes, ex race car,,,,