Search the Community

Hi everyone, I have seemed to have lost the forum for the r32 brake conversion. Can someone please attach the link to the forum. There was a very detailed forum about the upgrade that i was going to follow as part of my Iso build but i haven't got the forum Thanks Luca

Hey all, About 2 weeks ago I picked up my grandpa's 1979 280zx to rebuild, I have already got the fuel system redone and got the engine running after it sitting there for about 13 years which was a pretty sick feeling loll.. Just wondering what everyone recommends for brake booster and master cylinder setups, I am looking into a Wilwood Tandem 1" Master Cylinder with the Toyota Hilux 8/9" LN141 Break Booster. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or their setups that work well as an upgrade to the stock ones as this cars stock setup is absolutely shot now and I wont be able to get a RWC or Rego which is a pain. I am also doing an RB25DE or DET engine swap later in the late year so something that seems to work well with your engine builds. This is my first post and im sure I will be active on these forums a lot more now Cheers

I've been keeping these front hubs and rotors as spares, but it's unlikely I'll ever use them again as I now have s13 coilovers and hubs installed. The bearings are still in there but I would recommend replacing them due to the hubs sitting around. Asking $100 and pickup from Kensington, Sydney. Could also post them if anyone interstate is after then.

Dear All I'm looking to repair my brakes and would need Seal Kits to repair it - Would any of you have Caliper repair kit 41120-68225 which fixes all seals for one caliper. Do let me know as I would need 4 sets.

Hi Guys I have a complete disk brake kit for a 240z for sale. fronts are toyota hilux callipers with vented rotors rears are nissan r31 callipers and solid rotors brake pads are EBC red stuff front and rear. pads and rotors still have plenty of life fronts pads, callipers and front rotors have only done 4000kms since i rebuilt them. also rubber brake hoses included. easy bolt on setup and allows you to use your standard cable handbrake. $1200.00 the lot. 0419569996 cheers Josh

Hi All, First post here so please forgive any newbie mistakes. I shouldn't even be here, as the car I race in historics is actually an Elva Courier. The car has been racing in historic for 30 years, between ourselves, Brian Sampson and Winston Kim. However, it's got 240Z drums at the rear and the wheel cylinders continue to fail. When I say fail, after about 20 laps (with new cylinders - or honed and rekitted ones) They start to weep fluid. That weep becomes a leak and then everything gets wet and messy. Every session means the drums come off, a can of brake clean gets used and if the circuit is hard on brakes, I may pull the cylinders off, hand hone them, put on some new piston seals and reassemble to get through the meeting. I have been trying to solve the problem for 2 years and am gradually working through every possible problem without success. So stop me now if you've had the problem and worked out what caused it!! The backing plates are drilled, the drums have large vent holes, there's good airflow, heat isn't the problem. It seems that the problem is mechanical. i say that because after just a few races, there's a very clear wear mark in the bore, that indicates the piston is cocking. Last weekend at wakefield park, (fresh hone and new rubbers) I pulled the pistons out and just replaced the seals only for them to leak in the next race immediately. So the bore must have been compromised. We have tried new OEM cylinders, sleeved cylinders, 2 different types of seals that are the same size, measured the piston to bore clearance (it's correct), tried little O rings on the piston neck to stop the seal sliding up and down, we are running castrol 4.1 fluid, etc etc. The shoes are always adjusted up. There are 2 avenues left I think. Have I been reassembling the drums with the wrong spring configuration? I've tried it a couple of ways, one where the you have to hold the shoes lightly against the backing plate, before securing them with those little spring retainer arrangements. The other way round the shoes really wanted to roll off the drum. Neither seemed to make a difference. The other is the drums themselves which are at their max of 230mm. They've been on the car for 20 years. Whilst the linings appear to wearing evenly, it's possible the drum liner surface is no longer square and the linings are cocking under load. We are taking the whole assembly over to a couple of brake guys for their feedback, because after this weekend I've just about reached the end of ideas. Any feedback or thoughts would be warmly welcomed! Kind regards, Nick