mick260

Hi. No compression test or leak down test done. We didn't think it was necessary to resurface the block as it was originally just an old head gasket giving up. I will try to do a leak down test over the next few days. This last time also there is moisture in the oil cap but I did an oil change on the weekend. There was no sign of water in the oil and after a few drives the new oil isn't milky either. Thanks for the help and suggestions. Hopefully I can get it sorted out. There are signs of water/oil coming out around around the exhaust gasket.

The first time the head gasket went it was leaking out the back of the block. The second time it was leaking around 3 or 4 cylinder. The corrosion in the head wasn't great but it tested fine after the reco. I had the water pump off the first time we did the head. Little to no corrosion. Thanks Mick.

Hi. Thanks. We didn't retention the head. My old man had done a lot of these over the years and he didn't mention anything about re tensioning. The car does seem to drive as normal until it heats up. I get about 3 laps of the track down here and then it starts to play up and loose acceleration.

Hi everyone. I have an l28 F54 block with a N42 head . I am having some issues with my head gasket. It has gone on me 3 times this year. First time it appeared the original head gasket decided to give up which is understandable. So I had the head recoed and installed a mild cam. I had my brother in law who is a 3rd apprentice mechanic help me put everything together. Second time. I probably travelled 150km before I went to start it and it had hydro lock. I inlisted my dad to help this time who is a mechanic of 40 years. I had the head re tested and it came back as good. So with a new head gasket we put it back together and away it went. Third time. I at least got a bit of street driving and a couple of sprint days out of it. But now it is using water. There is water and oil (by the looks of it ) coming out around the exhaust manifold and even water has dripped out of where the headers attach to the exhaust. My catch can is also filling with water. Just after some recommendations on what I should do next. Could it be the block has failed somewhere. I just don't want to replace the gasket and have a failure again. Thanks.

Yes it did have a 2JZ. He also has a 260 2 seater with full gtr running gear in it. It's coming down to my brothers shop in the future for some paint.

It's former glory. Not sure if hatch vents have been covered or has a different hatch. Obviously far from standard.

My brother was looking at buying this off his wife's cousin. He said it has the vents in the hatch so I asked what number it is. Apparently it's No.000000062 The owner changed his mind and said he can't get rid of it yet.

Nah it was purple with no flares. Same wheels. 2.5 years ago I bought my rust free l28 turbo 260 2 seater for around that money too.

This car looks a lot like one that was for sale when I was looking for mine 2.5 years ago. It was on car sales back then. I think it was 10grand then. It was for sale for a long time then.

So. Does anyone want to buy a stock l28 n42 block? I removed the head today to discover 79mm stroke and 86mm bore. Which I am to believe is standard. The Pistons look the same as my other l28. Ahh well. It was worth the punt. I still got a spare 5 speed and a wolf 3d comp for my other car. Thanks for all the the advice/help. Mick.

I have actually contacted the shop that apparently did the build. Hopefully they will get back to me shortly. He thinks they should have a record of what work was carried out. I am pulling the head off on Friday so I can be ready to out my new head on it. That should take out the guess work of measuring the stroke. Thanks for all the input. Mick.

It's an l28 and was advertised as a 3.2 stroker. But for the price it was worth a gamble. Plus it was only an hour away from me.

Thanks for your help. I will have a look tomorrow arvo.

Hi. I am guessing they would have to be removed for this. I wasn't planning on it. Was just going to do new seals and and put it in.

Hi. Thanks. The crank also has P3040 stamped on the other end. How can I tell if they are custom conrods. Mick