Riceburner

I purchased rust repair panels from them for my brothers 1600 not to long ago. They were really nice guys, good to deal with and they had plenty of race/rally cars in the work shop

Ha! I'll be JB welding them again Clockwork, I'm not sure why. Perhaps it comes back to cylinder pressures and ring sealing?

Good point PB, I have heard that too and adhered to it on the last engine. I'll probably do it on this one too.

Interesting, thanks guys. Ok, I'll bin the out dated steps in favour of the new short list. I'll keep the warm up cycle though as the oil filter bypass valve is gone, so I don't want to flog it before the oil is warmed up. The Penrite 15w40 break in oil I have says to drive for 500miles and then change, is this wise or do I drop it and the filter after a few hours of running?

Just wondering what you guys do when running in or breaking in a newly rebuilt engine? I'll be building a new L31 bottom end with a very lightly refreshed PMC head. My last engine was all fully rebuilt, so I did a follows: 1) Prime oil system, start engine, run at 2,000rpm for 20mins then shut off and closely check over. 2) Start engine, get to temp, then drive, pick a quiet road and in 3rd gear do short full throttle pulls no higher than 5,000rpm then completely off the gas until revs drop below 2,000rpm and repeat many times. 3) Don't exceed 5,000rpm for the first 500 miles. 4) At 500 miles drop oil, change oil filter and enjoy. Is this ok, how does your procedure differ? If the cam/head is already 'run in' will that alter the process? Does a dyno run in procedure differ from an on the road run in?

The stock splash pan mounts from the crossmember forwards over the sway bar and bolts to the radiator support? If so it won't actually cover/protect your sump, they're quite thin also. If protection is what you need Jason's idea is best. My brother had that style ally plate on his 1600 from it's rally days and it was heavy duty!

Kingsmen...... Ok in a very poor mans James Bond kinda way. Feel good and easy to watch.

Jousting sticks! Bahahaha, That's gold Jake

Port dia is 39.5mm, I'm not sure what material this was made from but it's been the best manifold gasket I've used. Hopefully Les will have something similar. Thanks guys!

I need a new inlet/exhaust manifold gasket for the new engine. I currently have a big bore type but was unable to remove it in one piece. Does anyone know where to source these?

I sold mine to Dale, perhaps you could make a mould from that?

50 cars really, wow you guys are brave! Many Datto's or was it a more modern brigade?

I watched "Interstellar" with Matthew McConaughey and Anne Hathaway. It's quite a long film at 169mins but I never found myself looking at the clock, in fact it was the opposite the time flew by and I was hooked from the start until the finish. Highly recommended, 9 out of 10.

Wow, good price Dimitri! How did you find them on the road and are they a road legal semi?

I'm with Gordo, the racing is very addictive and rewarding. The feeling you get pushing the car at great speed, the feedback and understanding of the cars/drivers limits is something everyone should do. In saying that I too did a two week driving holiday in the Zed many years ago before it was fiddled with too much. It was one of the best trips I have ever done, doing it in the car was quite special and something I'll never forget. Having moved to the east side of Melbourne recently I have found myself very close to some great drives. I've been on quite a few solo runs, but I tend to steer clear of the well known ones as they seem to be wanna be racer hot spots. There's nothing like a crisp, clear day and a quiet little peddle in the zed. I find it really relaxing, nothing quick, just some beautiful scenery, no traffic, window down to enjoy the smells and sounds It's almost a shame to cover it up at the end of the day.

What sort of under body stuff did you use Graeme?

Getting a block that'll go to 89mm can be quite expensive, as I've found out. That's before you even start the build. Unless you're a clown and you buy the big pistons before getting the block Ha!

Congrats! So how does it look now you've had a better chance to go over it?

Gordo, no unfortunately not. It's in bits and pieces again Regarding numbers on clearance I found this http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/277137-stroker-rod-bolt-clearance.html It's says "0.080 to 0.100" clearance through full arc of rotation" So that's what I'll check for.

Hahaha, I wish! Yeah I am doing a dummy assembly to see if any other bits will cause an issue. In terms of clearance, is 1mm ok or would 3mm be better incase anything stretches under load. I was wondering if there is a specific minimum clearance measurement.

I'm building a stroker up at the moment and I have read about potential block clearance issues. I'm running an LD crank, Datsun spirit light weight 139.5mm rods and Pistons. I noticed when I tore down an LD engine that the block had been clearanced by the factory (see pics). It appeared to be the main oil gallery. What sort of clearance to the block is sufficient for an engine at high RPM and how thick will the gallery walls be? Cheers, Gareth.

It all ties in really nicely Rev

Thanks Jason

I've read in the 'hot rod & race" book about drilling out the oil restrictors in the top of the block that feed the cylinder head. My current engine didn't get this done so it's just the stock size. I haven't had any issues yet but the engine only see's 7000rpm. 76 deg works high lift cam internally oiled, Kameari high volume oil pump. Just wanting to know how many people carry out this mod and what results you've had? With the new engine potentially seeing higher rpm is this worthwhile and are the any extra supporting mods required to make it work? I gather it's just the one in the middle of the block and the one at the front?

The seal is not very substantial, so I'm not sure if it will be good enough for the SU's. The FCR throttle shaft is at the top of the carb. They can be tuned with the carb body top removed without drawing air in and running crap. Perhaps an extra felt seal fitted before the roller bearing is pressed in for extra insurance?