Riceburner

You could try the stock setup and see how you like them. From memory my car with the standard front bar had a large amount of body roll even on the street. I upgraded to 24mm front a while ago now.

Have to agree also, all that great work and then it's ruined with the Rocket Bunny body kit Is it just me or all those body kits exactly the same?

Best to get some ARP head studs, they are reusable. I've used genuine Nissan head gaskets available from Stuart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney, just use a healthy coating either side of Hylomar before fitting. If your going that far, would it be too much of a stretch to pull the engine and check bearings and rings? You'll need to check the block deck anyway for straightness and issues too.

So, will everyone that was going to classic japan be going to this?

Last time I went it was a $5 donation to charity...... So what is this extra $10 going to? Surely if it was a charity/fund raising event the council fees would be waived. Perhaps it's now being run by the power companies for extra profit Here's an idea..... what about moving to a lager venue.

Unfortunately I don't think they fit my setup. Thanks for taking the measurements, much appreciated.

Yes thanks, can you do total length too (from bottom of strut all the way up the shaft to the bottom of the threaded section).

Do you have any dimensions for these, wondering if they'll fit 240z or 260z struts?

Plenty of good advice here guys. Who would've thought, Datsun experts and pest control too

Looking good! I'll be running the Kameari bits too, did you use the standard crank bolt/washer on this?

Some absolute beauties here! http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/10/nissans-take-over-sodegaura/

What choke sizes are you guys running on your 44/45's?

Yeah, not confidence inspiring with the ricey in there on stands!

I have a spare 280 sump that's has an extra port in the sump with a temp sensor in it, so I guess it makes sense if the factory did it that way too. It's a 9.5ltr baffled sump, so it will be interesting to see how it all goes. I'll get the cheapo sandwich plate for the extra pressure sensor and then try the temp sensor in the sump plug as it seems to be the same size. Thanks gents

I'm sure there's others who have this problem, what's your best remedy to get rid of these nasty little things? I've tried bug bombs twice already and they keep coming back

So Jeff are you saying it's better to measure the temp after it's gone through the engine in the sump? The block will have a little grout filling so I anticipate more heat soak in the oil. No cooler at this stage but I believe I will need one.

No worries, just thought I'd check up. Thanks

Any progress on these yet Jake?

Ok, so flow temps going into the motor are the best point to measure. Looks like I'll go with that sandwich plate to start off with then. Not sure if I'll need an oil cooler yet, will depend on what the gauges say.

I found this sandwich plate for $34, it says it's specifically for fitting addition oil gauges. The guts of it look fully open, so to me it seems like it should be ok for the job and have no restrictions. Is this a safe way to do it? http://www.neon-technologies.com.au/products/silver-oil-sandwich-plate-for-installing-oil-gauge-sensors-universal-fit

I'm adding some 52mm Kameari gauges for the new engine, I have oil temp and oil pressure that need to be fitted. Water temp is sorted with a new thermostat housing. I'm thinking of two different options... 1) Fit new oil temp in sump drain plug position, would need to be removed for oil changes. Add a billet 'Y' piece to the block and fit new pressure sensor with the factory pressure sensor in the OEM position. 2) Fit a sandwhich plate, use the two holes for the new temp/pressure gauges. What does everyone recommend? Will the sandwhich plate still allow normal oil flow if both outlets are blocked?

No messing around here, your flying through it. What HP potential does 305cfm give you?

Oh, I assumed it was a video with Pete driving or in the car.

I've used all of them. New genuine factory mount with chain= useless/noisey as the mount fails and the chain eats throught the rubber (my chain broke under power, ruined the handbrake assembly and my underpants!). The drive home was equally terrifying The solid billet mount= very noisey & cracked crossmember as the diff twists unless you use solid moustache bar mounts. RT type with urethane mount= shaving of urethane mount to get correct driveline angles which results in weakening of the mount. The SWM mount although expensive is the best solution, do it once and do it right. It uses an OEM rubber mount encapsulated in the crossmember, even if the bush completely disintergrates the mount still works with very little play. It's rubber so the noise is very quiet, same as a factory mount without the eventual clunk as it starts to give way.

Where is this video you speak of?