Riceburner

Hi Linton, Sorry I should of specified I did all my enquiries and investigating prior to 2015 when I was considering it. My understanding was under the previous rules the RWC requirement was the same for the new permit vehicles and modified vehicles were a no no? Now it looks like the new rules will cover more of the grey areas and put a stop the shifty dealings.

That's pretty good considering the extra stroke!

Last two cranks I weighed were virtually the same, both cranks were standard size journals etc. The LD28 crank was 800 grams heavier. LD28=22.8kg's F54 L28=22kgs http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100131-weight-ld28-crank/

It's probably one for Lurch. Looks as if the counterweights have had a little taken off the ends.

This is what I'm referring to, a current RWC is the part that IS NOT required from the numerous discussions and emails I have had with many current permit plate vehicles.

What's the weight of the RB crank?

I might make my way down for a look around, it will be a good run for the car too.

Any one thinking of going to this event

I did mine when I first got the car. It's very tight at the back of the tank if you don't remove it, but it is doable. My plastic T piece was broken, so I went to Enzed and got a brass female threaded T block and fitted the correct size male brass barbed fittings. This line will have fuel in the bottom third if you fill the tank all the way up

If you are mean NDSOC based in Melbourne it'll be interesting to hear how you go. They've been the only club I have approached and the one I was referring to above, they have two different sets of rules depending on who you know within the club and what is or isn't required regardless of the actual rules around the permit. Best of luck and happy to be proven wrong

Yeah spot on Chris, it should be handled by the relevant state authorities. From my dealings with the current setup there's a heap of shifty business happening depending on 'who you know' within the club and only certain people doing what actually IS required for the permits. Sorry to hear it didn't work out for you.

Yeah the box and diff make a big difference. Personally I don't think the 4.3 ratio is too high even for a standard car, unless you do lots of long freeway drives.

I looked into it through NDSOC down here in Victoria a while ago. I found It depends on who you know within the club as to how easy it is to get.... Not everyone who applies has to play by the rules. Keep us updated as to how you go.

Is it that obvious I'm loosing or have lost my tiny mind? Lol.

IT WASN'T THE PLUG WIRES, THE FCR CARBS HAD A VACUUM LEAK ON THE COUPLING RUBBERS. - The car ran on the first day perfectly for approximately 1 hour, next day no good. - Check valve clearances - Replace dizzy cap, rotor, check fuel pressure, new plugs gapped and indexed. - #6 plug lead failed - MSD & coil failed on comp test. operator error. - Removed carbs to change rubber couplers, removed dizzy leads, throttle cable, fuel lines etc to gain clearance. - Installed carbs with new rubbers, lead 6&3 arse about without reallising, tested no good, gave up. - Following day started full tear down to check inlet exhaust manifold gasket and noticed leads out from day before. - Switched leads, installed carbs again, NEW coupling rubbers eliminated vacuum leak, car runs. A Vacuum leak developed after 1 hours running at the end of the first day of operation. Throw all that in with the other hiccups and it makes for a large can of worms, well I think so anyway PERHAPS JUST TO CLARIFY IT WASN'T THE PLUG WIRES, AFTER RUNNING PERFECTLY THE FIRST DAY FOR 1 HOUR IT WAS NO GOOD THE FOLLOWING DAY. THE FCR CARB COUPLING RUBBERS DEVELOPED A VACUUM LEAK AFTER THE FIRST DAYS RUNNING. Thanks again for all your help guys!

Who's your club registration with Gav?

Nah not the leads, that's was a mix up after the fact. It was the coupling rubbers holding the FCR carbs onto the manifold. That vacuum leak along with the broken lead on #6 plug and the fact it ran fine the first day and then turned to sh$t through me completely. Lol

White on black, can't go wrong. Neat job with the heat shield, it does a great job that stuff! My brother is looking at the bumpers from muscle car parts for his Datsun 1600, they look great.

Tantrum over I had a look at a few more things suggested on the following day. I went to the FCR carbs, unfortunately due to the 'chatter' noise they make listening for air leaks was hard, especially with my partial deafness. I started pulling everything down including plug wires as the carbs are hard to remove and replaced the coupling rubbers on the manifold. Refitted them, put everything else back together and cranked. It ran, but really rough! Switched off and through the toys from the cot again! Lol. A new day, a few more bits to remove and check again. I decided to check the manifold gasket after suggestions here. I removed the carbs, started on the heat shield and while glancing at the dizzy something caught my eye. #6&3 looked to be in wrong order, I switched them and decided to fit the carbs back on and try my luck.... "HUZZAH, it's alive!" was the first response followed by " you co%k head" and "oh the humanity". I had to alter the timing by a long shot as the new Bosch ignition system was different, Glad I left that in there. I called PMC (possibly should have done this sooner ) to get some expert advice. It's sorted! So pros and cons... Pros: I have a new 3.1L, PMC P90 head, 10.5:1 comp, 76 works high lift cam, CR gearbox, 4.375 diff, goes like STINK although with no tach (it's configured to run off the MSD) I don't want to rev it too hard to begin with! Not turned properly yet. Cons: I have spent a week pulling my hair out, whats left is turning grey quickly, the swear jar has been replaced by a barrel, my MSD6AL-2 and the HVC-2 blaster coil are cooked due to my stupidity, about $600 all up Many thanks to all who posted with advice and help, it's much appreciated!!! PMC you're a legend It's invaluable to have such a great forum and so many knowledgeable members willing to give a helping hand when required.

I would've thought warped brake rotors would only give vibration while braking lightly? I'd try rotating the wheels front to back and see if it changes, if it does you may have thrown a wheel weight and need them re balanced.

So the saga continues... Did a comp test, looks like I didn't disconnect the MSD properly and it turned into a smoke bomb! And now the car won't start via the push start button, YAY! I managed to do the test with a screw driver on the starter, my battery is small so it was 3-4 cranks on each cylinder and I couldn't open the throttle. All cylinders were in the 140-150psi range, is that good with closed throttles? So now aside from an expensive engine that doesn't work I also have a cooked MSD and a car that wont start. For sale thread on the way!

Hi Pete, I tried spraying the inlet manifold with soapy water today but it didn't seem to make any difference to the idle speed or the misfire. I have a comp tester somewhere will give that a try too.

No worries Gav, let me know.

Thanks PB, I'll switch to the back up ignition tomorrow and hope that's all it is. Getting pretty stressed now, I've run out of ideas/knowledge and with a lot of money in the engine the only other thing I can think of is pulling off the head to check the gasket for leaks.

I have changed the broken lead on #6 but it hasn't made any difference. Checked the MSD and I'm getting huge multiple sparks at the plugs. I checked the valve clearances and adjusted them on #6, this has made the misfire quicker. I'm going to check the clearance again and set them up loose. I always seem to set them too tight. My specs for this cam say 10thou, I'll aim for 12. Could it just be valve clearances?