Riceburner

Watched it last night, Funny episode. The POS 240z they have never really runs so it's hardly used at all.

This could be a good one, I like top gear USA. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55438-240z-on-top-gear/#comment-494713

Here's a Nissan USA item I have, quite simple in design. Part number on the packet, if it's still available.

These parts are quite interesting. Is it just the brake pedal that differs or does the clutch and accelerator pedal have similar changes?

Looks fantastic Peter, big milestone after all the effort you've put in. How good do the seats look!

I find the spec sheet a little hard to understand but the way I read it was that the shocks had only 10 steps of adjustment? I'm not looking to spend 1000's on shocks or having them re-valved, Ideally I'd like something with some adjustment that will allow me to tinker and possibly cope with potential spring rate changes. Specified spring range is 5-12kg, surely they'd have to be pretty decent to be able to control those rates? I've purchased a fair bit of kit from Kameari and its all been first class. EDIT: There's these (bilstein 34-050224) from bilstein to suit a Mitsubishi 300gt. It would mean a lot more work fitting 55mm struts in the rear and some machining of spacers etc. I'm not sure what the valving specs are on these.

Yeah, great result. So much to love about their car! I have a magazine with a fairly large write up of this car, although for obvious reasons there's not a great amount of detail on mechanicals/setup etc. It did appear to have some very fancy shocks, remote reservoirs with external adjustability. The Leagacy boys were doing excellent as well, hopefully the accident damage isn't too bad.

Nice solution with the rubber mounts Jake, The covers maketh the G-nose IMO.

With all the other parts I've gone direct through Mori san at Kameari, I guess it'll come down to who's priced best. I found these on ZCCJDM and Brian was good enough to supply that spec sheet. I want to compare shock sizes and specs with a few different options first. I can PM you if you when I get more info.

Thanks guys, makes more sense now.

I received some specs for the valving of the Kameari adjustable shocks. Does anyone know how to interpret the figures?

Looking at this it appears to be rated at 80amps? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99158-main-wire-ampacity/?hl=%2Bstarter+%2Bfuse+%2Blink&do=findComment&comment=930045

Today I started the ricey and limped it out of the garage as it hadn't been run for a month, 15 seconds after start up it stalled due to driver error and wouldn't start again. I seem to have lost all power after the starter. I checked the fusible link off the starter (It's been modified) continuity seemed ok but with the battery on there is no 12v at the loom where the link is spliced back in... There is 12v at the starter, no power in the car at all. I found a green fusible link behind the fusebox that checks out ok. Not sure if it's an issue but I also have a 260z volt gauge instead of a 240z ammeter. Can I source the correct replacement link anywhere local or swap it for an in line fuse? Does anyone know what amperage it is?

That type fits flush with the edge of the headlight bucket requiring an internal bracket and nowhere for the retaining ring to attach. The genuine ones overlap the headlight bucket and attach via set screws into an included flat metal plate which is screwed into the bucket with small self tappers. I've had both types, the standard nose type appeared to be chrome plated? The G-nose type seem to be stainless steel, both types were welded together in three pieces and have a downward rolled edge on both sides IIRC.

Some more goodness... This build looks epic, so clean! I've seen a fair bit of this type of ignition system, looks to be a cam angle sensor instead of a dizzy? Interested to see how they do it and what's used to control the ignition timing. A couple of nice track spec Z's here too. The white Z looks fantastic and that chin spoiler suits the lines of the Z so well. The L-series sounds so much better than all the modern cars. Sh$te music warning!

It does sound good, although not quite as good as the 3L above.

Good news Jason!

Hehehe, the power glove! Classic. Getting back on topic, I think Mark Clapp from the USA was making lenses only for the G-nose types, no standard type lenses and no stainless trim rings for either type?

Agree 100%, Unless the buyer was the owner of a genuine Z432 I would say there's zero value for money in these. The other sets priced on yahoo auctions are hard enough to swallow.

Some trick gear there Tom. Do you get a big grip gain going from semi slicks to full slicks? What are those shocks, they look massive!

Thanks! Agno/Jason, what's the temp specs on the LucasTRW pads?

I run Project Mu club spec pads from a Mazda E-FD3S in my hilux calipers with cross drilled and slotted vented rotors. No issues at all, the pads aren't cheap but they're bullet proof and have lasted me ages. I have attached a pic of them compared to a hilux pad, if you want to use them you need to weld the holes and re drill them in a slightly different position to set the pads in exactly the same position as stock hilux ones. I tried EBC (with solid rotors) green as well as yellow and both sets cooked at the track so much that huge chunks of material were cracking off. Do you have anymore info on the brembo pad?

Other side of the card below. Crack tested too, all ok.

It's probably one for the experts. Maybe they can tell if yours are still ok. If it were me, I'd stick with the original Nissan arms (a different set) and just get them resurfaced professionally or the DIY method.

Sounds very nasty, maybe it was an oiling issue. I'd be looking for a good condition second hand set or even a complete good condition head. That'll have everything you need.