Riceburner

Perhaps it is weather related, as the cold sets in the urge to drive or finish the car to drive drops off?

Yeah, I think we really miss the input from the gurus. It's nice to see how the experts do things but obviously they have an income or expertise to protect. I imagine cause there's less cars around too, there is as a result less of them working on Datsuns. I'm a plumber by trade so my expertise is very lacking in this field. As far as content goes, personally I find build threads the biggest and best source of info. Typically they show a little of everything from body work to mechanical and discussion is generated from there. As far as my contribution goes there's not very much. I lack any genuine skills, I try to get detailed info on the technical build stuff by asking questions as I figure I can then try it myself. I do try to post up any upgrades I carry out but most of my stuff is monkey see, monkey do. Hehe.

Bump! Is it just me or is this happening again, perhaps it is seasonal leading into winter? It just seems of late whenever I have logged on or looked on the site all we have is car for sale listings. It's almost as if it's a car sale review site rather than an enthusiast club website. It's not a knock on the forum but perhaps it's a sign of the times I guess, less cars=less builds :-\ For me it certainly seems like the 'Real' content nowdays is few and far between...

Oh nice to see some more build threads getting updated Graeme's car is amazing, So many good things to see you don't which way to look! Without giving too many secrets away do you guys use the 71C's bigger selector rods and shift forks for this mod?

Perfect day for it and looked like a solid turn out. Thanks for the pics, plenty of nice machines. Is that the new race car finished Gordo?

I too fitted a 'genuine' NOS boot to my car a few years ago. I had the same issue, it didn't fit nearly as well as the original one I had. The folded up skirt was also shorter between the two, I doubt these are actually 'NOS'. Perhaps copies would be a better term. I had 5 clips in total and I levered them open with a flat blade screw driver to push them on a little easier.

I'd be happy to do that Jason.

Mick, I have 2 more N42 blocks to check, one is my current running engine so needs to be removed and stripped if required. Not sure on the sonic test price, I didn't ask when I dropped the F54 off. I have a knife edged LD28 crank, 139.5mm rods (500gm), 89mm pistons (288gm) with 27mm pin height. P90 PMC head with 42cc chambers 10.7:1. It'll be a longer rod stroker. I'll wait to find a block to fit the 89's, anything less won't do. Sleeving is an option I will investigate.

I had read that before but I dismissed it. I know there's bugger all difference but for me this is my ultimate engine build (on a budget) and I would've always felt if it wasn't 89 it wasn't quite right. I had initially asked for 88's but I changed my mind because of that very reason. So, anyone got a block suitable for 89 bore laying around? Lol

Oh oh, this doesn't sound promising. I already have the 89mm pistons and finding a block good enough sounds like it's going to be quite the task. I have two un tested N42 blocks, one is the engine currently running in the car :'( I will not go smaller than 89!! Lol. I guess sleeving the block is way too expensive?

I thought N42 was the better block for big over bores as per this quote I found on Classiczcars "Carl, I think you have got this N42 and F54 block internals thing the wrong way round.... The N42 block casting ( the earlier of the two ) had more 'meat' between the bores than the F54 block casting that followed it. The F54 block casting had 'siamesed' cooling passages between the bores - ie less 'meat' - which actually makes it less stiff than the N42 casting. When going for maximum bore on an L28 block, the N42 has often been chosen because the extra material in the block casting leaves greater wall thickness, which helps to keep bores round in use. In contrast, the F54 block has often been chosen because people misunderstand what 'siamesed cooling passages' means. They think that they are "stronger", when in fact they simply have better cooling properties. The F54 has less internal structure than the N42. And amongst tuners in Japan, the earliest N42 block castings were always reputed to have 'better' metallurgy than the later F54s" Seems to be a trend with the F54 blocks, mine too was ok on the sides of the cylinders but the wall thickness between 2-3 and 3-4 were too thin for my purpose.

Thanks Gav! Is that prior to doing the over bore Lurchos?

Does anyone know the minimum recommended cylinder wall thickness for an over bored block? I've had one of my spare F54 blocks sonic checked and the figures are 3-4mm, it currently has stock 86mm bores.

I've used the VHT epoxy on various parts of my car. It's so easy to use and gives a great finish. It is very durable, I haven't had any problems so far.

That's a goodie! So is there any sort of record as to what was the last chassis number to roll off the line?

Yep that's correct Alan, that date is on the Australian compliance plate. Looking at the register I can see the other late car 103779 is the same color and is also an automatic. Although my car is now a manual.

My car is a slightly earlier build number but a later date? HS30-103 771 11/1973

They could all be very good cars, but the effortless listings with a lack of detailed pictures and descriptions I find quite off putting.

Personally I wouldn't even look at a LHD car or buy one. Given the amount of info included on the 35K car I'd say it's over priced. The picture and short description is not very enticing. I think James Flett's orange 240 was advertised at 35K. Now that seems like much better value!

Noice, I spy a set of down draft FCR's on the red skyline. Geez they all sound good!

Yep +1. I have seen some pretty nice roadsters for sale but the LHD seems to make them a lot less valuable too. The painted stainless and chrome trim doesn't suit the car at all IMHO.

I got my Nissan R180 4.37 for $50 (+$160 for isotropic finishing) To date it's the best mod I have done, the acceleration is fantastic! 1K won't get you enough head work so my vote for would be for.. 1. Electronic ignition 2. 72 degree regrind, my wade 76 was $120. 3. SM or SR needles for SU's

I don't mind that sound at all, it's not noticeable once the revs rise. I'll need to shave the head to get my comp ratio up as I've gone for super light weight flat top Pistons. I didn't want to play with the head anymore by welding it or getting domed Pistons. The KEW twin idler for me will be the simplest solution, it'll allow me to have a light weight long rod bottom end, my PMC P90 head with a 'new' 10.5:1 comp ratio. My understanding was it allowed you to shave the head more than factory spec without having to alter the valve geometry? EDIT: Alan has answered my question above.

Price drop $120

Price drop $125