Riceburner

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3171.0.html Haven't heard much on this build in a while...

Interesting, thanks I'll check them out too.

I use the nulon Xtreme brake fluid, but the penrite race fluid looks to have the highest boiling temp. Nulon is 290degree and penrite 312degree. I have to agree with Jason, the QFM pads in the front of my car cooked and had big brake fade. The pad material had cracks through it everywhere. They seem ok in the rear but they are very dusty even with light road use. I'd like something else once this set wears out. The Project Mu pads are fine for road use.

Guys, I am buying one of these for my new engine and am in discussions with Sean at the moment. Price will be confirmed at a later date but it's not cheap and will probably be similar to the ATI units, only far superior. IMHO from what I have read it seems like the ultimate engine damper working across all spectrums of the rev range. My build like many will be made up from a lot of different parts, not designed to work together from the factory, the fluid damper is the ultimate solution. http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18342&highlight=harmonic+balancer

+2 and maybe some color on the calipers/drums behind?

Thanks Jason, I'm not too handy with the soldering iron. Does this have any data and rpm logging ability?

You could try taking it to 'scorcher ignitions' in Nunawading. Get them to check it over, they fully rebuilt my current dizzy, it now operates with mostly holden parts.

Just looking for some recommendations on wide band Air Fuel meters. I'm after something hand held, need to be plug and play, no hard hard wiring or permanent fixtures/gauges. I had a hand held Innovate LM2 that was lost in the fire. It was fantastic for tuning the FCR's, the only issue was it seemed to have a dodgey connection and would lose power occasionally. Looking at something like this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151490840636 NEW Fast 170401 Single Sensor Wide-Band Digital Air/Fuel Meter

I emailed Mori san last night and have received a reply already. Communication is excellent so it will be easy. Thanks guys!

That's an excellent idea Alan, I was just trying to get a handle on what I wanted if communication was going to be a problem. I would hate to order the wrong parts! Lol. Sounds like it should be a fairly smooth process, Thanks

Yeah that's the one I was looking at, thanks. Obviously there's a price difference, they have to make some money. Kameari Japan seems to be 30k yen cheaper, that's almost a twin idler The Kameari Japan kit looks to be 218k yen, 30k cheaper than RHD japan. Datsun Spirit rods and pistons work out to $2830 + a head gasket.... http://www.kameariengineworks.co.jp/Catalogue-v3/catalogue-007-L3.pdf I think it's the top left, kit number two @218,000

Thanks Mike I did have a look on there but they don't seem to have rods and pistons :-\ The prices definitely differ between them and Kameari Japan too. I'm piecing bits together for the new engine with the LD crank and I need pistons and rods to go with it. I'd like to keep the rods as long as possible, say 139.5mm and forged pistons around 88.5 depending on sonic test, with 27mm pin height. Datsun Spirit has them but I read somewhere they were Kameari parts anyway, so why not cut out the middle man and maybe save some dough? Some of their long rods are 400grams, compared to my 600gram cheapo 'H' beams or the 700+gram OEM rods. The pistons are much the same story, far lighter than anything else! I have their catalogue volumes 1&2 but even that is difficult to follow. Lol.

Is there anywhere I can get my hands on an English Kameari catalogue? I have tried to translate the website but it comes up all jumbled, over lapped and impossible to read

It sure is a light weight model George! It's all rebuild from here and that light at the end of the tunnel just got a little closer

I'm guessing you've attached the front diff mount/insulator to the diff and the diff cross member already. Is it the four bolt holes for that cross member that also keep the control arm bushes captive which won't line up? Try loosening the bolts which attach the insulator to the diff, the cross member and also the moustache bar to the under floor bolts. It should give you a little more wiggle room to get things started. I have this problem too sometimes, I get all four well started by hand before trying to nip anything up.

Sandown is pretty hard on the brakes isn't it? Maybe it's just time to flush the fluid and replace? What about new pads, flush and upgrade your fluid, and install a bias adjuster. You can have a play at the next track day and see if you can dial in your ideal balance? I use Project Mu club racer front pads, not cheap but they're the best pads I've had by a mile!

Ok, thanks. Look forward to seeing it driven in anger Mick!

Awesome! We need lots more pics though Who made all the aero bits on it, are they mounted onto standard fixing points?

Sorry mate, unfortunately not. It was in my brothers mint daily 1600 :'( There was nothing of the steering wheel left at all. see post #8 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14278.msg151086.html#msg151086

How good do these sound

Hey Aaron, I'll definately take it. I'll PM you about picking it up. Just to add to the discussion, it looks identical to my November 73 240z original wheel before the fire. Lol. The horn pad is the same as my 'compe' wheel.

Pm sent

What is the advantage of the later model setup?

Stuart Wilkins has them listed, $8 & $14 each. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/index.php?cPath=16_72&&page=2

More pics is always a good thing Those old race car shots are great!