Dan260Z

I'd recommend the Honda motor upgrade, more powerful, and auto return to home if you add a relay.

Bumpety bump! I've found mine, however it's missing the secondary catch (broken off by a PO) so it's not worth replating. If any one has one they're willing to sell I'd really appreciate it!

Need the bonnet-half of the latch (attached a pic). Somehow I've misplaced it upon dismantling the car 9 years ago, despite meticulously labelled and storing everything at the time. Somehow I also ended up with 2 of the car-half of the latch mechanism :-P Doesn't have to be in great nick - I'll clean it up and have it re-plated anyway. Cheers, Daniel

Cool thanks

Wow wouldn't have thought to try those, will give it a go. I assume the metal heater pipes on the back of the RB are given the flick?

Any recommendations? Or should I have mine reconditioned? Condition tbd, about to pull apart the heater box... car's been off the road for 7+ years... don't think it was leaking at the time, but there's signs of corrosion outside the heater box. In any case it's a ground up full car build so I'd like to have something new/rebuilt in it. Prefer not to pay mega $$$ for something out the states if possible.

Don't like to hijack the thread, but which hoses did you find work for hooking up the heater core to the RB?

So the order was placed last week, hopefully within a week or so Jeff has a new tailshaft for me! He reckons that the stock rectangular diff input flange can remain, and he'll use a bigger UJ and end bit on the tailshaft (whatever it's called) that will mate to the stock input flange. Apparently the 8mm bolts wont be a problem (I'll replace my damaged old bolts with high tensile new ones however). Opted for the "all new" option. Jeff said I could save a couple hundred by reusing the skyline slip yoke and UJ, and I believe the end of the stock zed tailshaft... however since the UJ isn't replaceable (and mine already has signs of notchiness) I preferred to go with a new, serviceable yoke and the bigger diff-end UJ.

Nice! Good to know he's a zed guy too! Didn't get time to take the measurements he wanted last night but will hopefully email it all to him over the weekend. Will keep the thread updated on how it turns out and which diff flange and UJ's he uses.

Awesome guys, Jeff at knox driveshaft also said not to worry about checking input shaft size and spline count so from that I gather they're mostly the same? Reckons he can supply a complete new shaft, all new bits inc. Slip yoke and a bigger diff flange for somewhere around $500 (TBC).

Awesome thanks. So to confirm - are the input shaft size and spline count the same on old longnose R200s as they are on newer short nose ones? Read through the link and couldn't ascertain that (and I stupidly threw out an old gutted S15 R200 shortnose I had laying around a few months ago, or else AI could have just tried the flange on my long nose!)

Hey guys,finally back on here after a rough time dealing with my daughter's health last year. Doing an RB25DET conv in my 74 2+2, and was about to get a custom tailshaft made using my original zed shaft and an R33 one that came with my R33 turbo box. Only I've noticed the zed UJ at the diff end looks tiny with equally small 8mm bolts... are there any larger flanges that bolt staight onto longnose R200's to allow me to run a bigger UJ? Would the flange off a modern short nose R200 fit? Eg. An R33 one? Or is the old zed item deceptively strong and therefore ok to deal with the new engine's torque?

Looking for a new or rebuilt one for my 74 260z build - seen them on evilbay for around $300 which seems a bit steep... anyone know of a better deal? Or... if there's anything bolt-on (or minimal mods) from another car that achieves similar assistance? OR..... if there is such thing as a booster rebuild kit? Happy to get my hands dirty to clean it up and paint it, etc, but if the innards are buggered and can't be replaced there's no point (nfi what condition it's in, I vaguely remember it working when I drove the car last in 2007) No doubt there's something made of rubber in there that will have degraded over the past 42 years and is worth replacing.

Oh forgot to mention if you have any info/CAD etc you be willing to send me I'd be ridiculously appreciative! Be happy to pay for the info... beer, money, site donation, etc. Even just knowing what the crank offset is between the frame rails when a factory L series is fitted would be awesome if you or anyone else have a few mins and a tape measure!

Cheers mate really appreciate all that info... and sorry its taken me yet another month to get back in here! Think I've spent about 10hrs on the car during that whole month Cool re. The lean, seems easy enough to get right. Been using a digital angle gauge with a relative function to get it level with the radiator support. I've got an R33 gts-t gearbox so that decision is made. Haven't thought much about the tailshaft yet, just focusing on getting it all lined up and mounted first. I've certainly seen what you mean by the speedo sender fouling though! The snag Ive hit today when attempting again to get it all sitting right, was when I tried matching the engine/gearbox left/right offset with that of the diff input shaft. I found the diff to be about 25mm offset towards the drivers side. But if I move the crank and gearbox outout shaft over that far(with the engine tilted correctly), the gearbox hits the tunnel (speed sender removed) and the engine looks too close to the steering shaft. Amd the bellhousing hits the fuel lines. See attached pics. Any ideas on this? I noticed the shifter cutout in the tunnel is only offset 10mm despite the diff input being 25mm over... perhaps the crank should only be offset by 10mm?