Dan260Z

I'd recommend the Honda motor upgrade, more powerful, and auto return to home if you add a relay.

Bumpety bump! I've found mine, however it's missing the secondary catch (broken off by a PO) so it's not worth replating. If any one has one they're willing to sell I'd really appreciate it!

Need the bonnet-half of the latch (attached a pic). Somehow I've misplaced it upon dismantling the car 9 years ago, despite meticulously labelled and storing everything at the time. Somehow I also ended up with 2 of the car-half of the latch mechanism :-P Doesn't have to be in great nick - I'll clean it up and have it re-plated anyway. Cheers, Daniel

Cool thanks

Wow wouldn't have thought to try those, will give it a go. I assume the metal heater pipes on the back of the RB are given the flick?

Any recommendations? Or should I have mine reconditioned? Condition tbd, about to pull apart the heater box... car's been off the road for 7+ years... don't think it was leaking at the time, but there's signs of corrosion outside the heater box. In any case it's a ground up full car build so I'd like to have something new/rebuilt in it. Prefer not to pay mega $$$ for something out the states if possible.

Don't like to hijack the thread, but which hoses did you find work for hooking up the heater core to the RB?

So the order was placed last week, hopefully within a week or so Jeff has a new tailshaft for me! He reckons that the stock rectangular diff input flange can remain, and he'll use a bigger UJ and end bit on the tailshaft (whatever it's called) that will mate to the stock input flange. Apparently the 8mm bolts wont be a problem (I'll replace my damaged old bolts with high tensile new ones however). Opted for the "all new" option. Jeff said I could save a couple hundred by reusing the skyline slip yoke and UJ, and I believe the end of the stock zed tailshaft... however since the UJ isn't replaceable (and mine already has signs of notchiness) I preferred to go with a new, serviceable yoke and the bigger diff-end UJ.

Nice! Good to know he's a zed guy too! Didn't get time to take the measurements he wanted last night but will hopefully email it all to him over the weekend. Will keep the thread updated on how it turns out and which diff flange and UJ's he uses.

Awesome guys, Jeff at knox driveshaft also said not to worry about checking input shaft size and spline count so from that I gather they're mostly the same? Reckons he can supply a complete new shaft, all new bits inc. Slip yoke and a bigger diff flange for somewhere around $500 (TBC).

Awesome thanks. So to confirm - are the input shaft size and spline count the same on old longnose R200s as they are on newer short nose ones? Read through the link and couldn't ascertain that (and I stupidly threw out an old gutted S15 R200 shortnose I had laying around a few months ago, or else AI could have just tried the flange on my long nose!)

Hey guys,finally back on here after a rough time dealing with my daughter's health last year. Doing an RB25DET conv in my 74 2+2, and was about to get a custom tailshaft made using my original zed shaft and an R33 one that came with my R33 turbo box. Only I've noticed the zed UJ at the diff end looks tiny with equally small 8mm bolts... are there any larger flanges that bolt staight onto longnose R200's to allow me to run a bigger UJ? Would the flange off a modern short nose R200 fit? Eg. An R33 one? Or is the old zed item deceptively strong and therefore ok to deal with the new engine's torque?

Looking for a new or rebuilt one for my 74 260z build - seen them on evilbay for around $300 which seems a bit steep... anyone know of a better deal? Or... if there's anything bolt-on (or minimal mods) from another car that achieves similar assistance? OR..... if there is such thing as a booster rebuild kit? Happy to get my hands dirty to clean it up and paint it, etc, but if the innards are buggered and can't be replaced there's no point (nfi what condition it's in, I vaguely remember it working when I drove the car last in 2007) No doubt there's something made of rubber in there that will have degraded over the past 42 years and is worth replacing.

Oh forgot to mention if you have any info/CAD etc you be willing to send me I'd be ridiculously appreciative! Be happy to pay for the info... beer, money, site donation, etc. Even just knowing what the crank offset is between the frame rails when a factory L series is fitted would be awesome if you or anyone else have a few mins and a tape measure!

Cheers mate really appreciate all that info... and sorry its taken me yet another month to get back in here! Think I've spent about 10hrs on the car during that whole month Cool re. The lean, seems easy enough to get right. Been using a digital angle gauge with a relative function to get it level with the radiator support. I've got an R33 gts-t gearbox so that decision is made. Haven't thought much about the tailshaft yet, just focusing on getting it all lined up and mounted first. I've certainly seen what you mean by the speedo sender fouling though! The snag Ive hit today when attempting again to get it all sitting right, was when I tried matching the engine/gearbox left/right offset with that of the diff input shaft. I found the diff to be about 25mm offset towards the drivers side. But if I move the crank and gearbox outout shaft over that far(with the engine tilted correctly), the gearbox hits the tunnel (speed sender removed) and the engine looks too close to the steering shaft. Amd the bellhousing hits the fuel lines. See attached pics. Any ideas on this? I noticed the shifter cutout in the tunnel is only offset 10mm despite the diff input being 25mm over... perhaps the crank should only be offset by 10mm?

Thanks Peter, and sorry for this slow reply - zed work sessions have been few and far between this year with family life taking up a lot of time. Interesting that they offset it 25mm... since last night I got out the tape measure and measured the diff pinion offset relative to the body (measured off the the points where the doglegs are spot welded to the other layers in that area) and it came up as roughly 25mm offset towards the drivers side (68mm from the passenger side, 63 from the drivers). From that I'm assuming the crank has to be 25mm towards the drivers side too (and in turn, I assume that why the RB and presumably (?) the L series is on an angle leaning towards the passenger side... perhaps to centre up the weight while allowing the crank to be offset? Of course I don't know yet if the RB gearbox (RB25DET R33 gearbox) has an offset output shaft already... only just thought I should check that before I go about offsetting the crank.... hmmmm. While I was at I got out the digital angle gauge I finally received from DX and measured the diff nose angle relative to the flat section under the rear suspension crossmember (the bracket that clamps the front bushes to the chassis). Came up almost exactly 4 degrees, nose up. I do have an RT style diff mount, but it's not making contact when static, so only the stock mustache bar and lower nose mount should be in play (ie. that should be the stock angle). Enging/gearbox "looks about right" when it's close to 4 deg too... so I assume if I design the mounts to angle it at 4 deg (gearbox down), the tailshaft angles will match at each end and cancel out oscillations in angular velocity (well... I assume thats the aim anyway... more research to be done there!) Getting the RB tilted over properly should be easy... there's flats on the timing cover that are supposedly supposed to be level when the motor is tilted... sticking the angle gauge on those (Set to measure relative to the radiator support) should help me get the motor tilt right. Love the idea of the jurid couplings... though straightening out the diff might be tricky without a bit of fab work... dunno how I could drop the nose without ditching the stock lower mount or raising the back by modifying the mustache bar? And the motor might be tricky too... only so much I can lower the front before the sump (rear bowl) hits the crossmember, and the gearbox starts to hit the upper areas on the tunnel well before I get it to 0 degrees. Any further thoughts welcome though!

Cheers guys, very helpful so far. From memory that hybrid z build page didn't answer my qns but I'll take another look and see what else is on the site that might help. Good idea re. the custom urethane for the mounts - will certainly consider it. I'm just not convinced which, if any, of the off-the-shelf mount manufacturers have considered stuff like proper tailshaft alignment. Anyone can sell something that'll work for a while... who knows if a rarely-driven project car chewed out the tailshaft UJ's 25,000kms down the road... or had a slight mystery vibration due to mismatched front and rear UJ angles. Plus there's lots of reports of the CRS stuff sitting the engine too high and forward, the CX racing stuff has little rubber between the centre and the edges so is likely to cause the car to vibrate, etc, etc. Will check out your build page, cheers for that, had no idea that a combo of stock parts would line up. I do have an RB25 turbo box, but I've already cut the original gearbox mounting ears off the tunnel back when the car was on the rotisserie. Anyone know if nat0_240_chevZ is still making mounts and sumps? PM'd him a while ago but no reply. Even just to pick his brain would be great. Meanwhile, here's my progress so far, with the custom sump mods.

I suspect you'll be proven right, but I'm hoping otherwise Even if someone with an RB's zed could quickly chuck a tape measure across a few spots so I could get a vauge idea of where the engine sits, where the crankshaft centre is relative to the frame rails, etc it'd be super helpful. And personal experiences will help, eg if someone says "I used the "blah brand" mounts and my tailshaft UJ's are still fine after 50,000kms" or "I just slapped the motor in however it fit and everything's fine". Unfortunately I sold my L26 ages ago and didn't take any measurements before removing it.

So finally, almost 6 years into the worlds slowest zed build, I have the RB sitting in the bay of my '74 2+2! Not a fan of the conversion kits I've seen that use round poly bushes (eg. CX racing)... would like more damping than that, hence I'd like to use the original R34 RB25DET mounts (or something OEM) combined with a custom bracket. Same with the gearbox (R33 turbo 5-speed). I'm handy with metalwork so the actual fabrication isn't a problem. But I'm stuck with getting the motor and gearbox sitting in the right position and on the right angle (relative to the diff, an R200 longnose). Currently the motor is just sitting on a strip of timber on the crossmember (temporary hack job rear bowl sump fitted while I mod the RB one to clear the crossmember), while the rear of the gearbox sits on blocks. Plan was to jimmy, shim and nudge the whole shooting match up down, left right, etc until it was in the right spot, take measurements, and fabricate the mounts to keep it in that position. I've done a little reading on how to get the angles right (eg. http://www.rustynutscarclub.com/driveline.htm) but I'm curious to see how others here have done it, specifically with an S30. Things I'd love to find out if you've done an RB conversion: - How high above the crossmember is the bottom of your block at each side? - How high does the rear of the gearbox sit relative to the top of the tunnel? - Is your shifter sitting in the middle off the opening in the left-right axis? (which places it offset towards the drivers side, since the opening isn't centered, nor is the diff, they're both more towards the drivers side, making me think the crankshaft has to be too?) - Any other measurements that might help? Eg. from the side of the block to the chassis rail? Realise I'm asking a lot - but if anyone's willing to spend some time with a tape measure, I'll do a write up with mount drawings, etc, and make a donation to the site (actually I'll prob do that anyway since it's been a while since I have ;-) ) Any other info appreciated also - eg. problems you had down the line due to misalignment, experience with existing kits, etc, etc. Cheers!!!

Still doing these by any chance? If not, are you able to provide any dimensions or a drawing etc so I could fabricate my own? Was thinking I'd get the flange laser cut out of fairly thick stuff then go from there.

Hey Scoota I don't suppose you've got a pic of the entire drop link set up? I'ver bought some second hand 260z belts and the drop link mounts to 2 points.... wondering if that's how they are were? And yep I'm only just getting onto sorting out the seatbelt issue again (2 years since the last post!).

Still got this for sale by any chance?

Not really - I'd like something light and higher revving for the zed - nothing against V8's, as I'll likely use one in the project after this, something like an AC cobra replica for example. But I'm after a different character for the zed.

Has it been done? Google didn't seem to think so. Seriously considering it however for my 260z. I've spent a long time tossing up between a VQ35DE Vs RB25DET swap... the VQ25DET seems like it may be the best of both worlds... light like the VQ35, 6-speed box, weight behind the front axle... but with the cool factor and easy mod-ability of a turbo. Approaching the point in my build that I'll need to make a call and drop some cash soon!

OK finally got a moment to get outside and check which strap I still have - it's the outer-most one, and measured approx 840mm roughly by pulling a tape measure round it. So the one I need will be the one closer to the centre of the car, and I suspect will be shorter. If you happen to also have the bracket that the outer one attaches too it'd also be a help, however not such a big deal as I'll probably find it - I've only really looked for the strap so far.