Dan260Z

I used one I found at Supercheap: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Septone-Paint-Seam-Sealer-Grey-900g.aspx?pid=105766#Recommendations Appeared to work ok, had no issues, though I also considered using the sikaflex (or a polyurethane sealant/adhesive).

Sweet - well if you're willing to part with it let me know what you want and when are good times to come out to pick it up I'm out north but work in richmond - could swing out to the SE suburbs after work one night or later in the night, or a weekend (pref saturdays), etc. Also it's occurred to me that the two straps probably differ from side to side... i'd better check tmw which one I need first...

Somehow, I've misplaced one (just one!) of the straps that hold the fuel tank in place. If someone has one let me know, I'm willing to pay or donate to the site, and not too concerned with condition as I plan to strip it back and paint, add new rubber welting, etc Also having trouble finding the bracket that I assume exists at one end of the outer-most strap... I've got both the J bolts that hook on, but there seems to be no where to hook on the outer-most straps' J-bolt, so i assume there was a bracket there (hard to tell - mine's since been re-coated in sound-deadener, etc so there's no visible marks in the area, though there are a few mounting holes scattered round).

I was wondering the same... and despite taking many pictures during strip down, I didn't take many of the underside :-S. Thanks! On the topic of handbrake cables - anyone else used the Thailand ebay types? I got one, only to find it falls right through the holes in the mounting brackets (both ends). Got a 50% refund from the seller and welded a washer onto them to stop them pulling through. Anyway here's the reason in case anyone else ends up having this issue: http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?p=221863

Cheers! Unfortunately I'd ended up ordering the ones I noted above before I saw you post - They fit ok, though the side ones were a tad narrow so I had to be careful not to push them too far in. They're about 2mm narrower than the stockies. If I did it again I'd get the SW motorsports ones.

Indeed Oh well back to Plan A. Or was it B. Something like that

Bugger - keep me posted though!

Wow! Exactly what I need (pending thickness/height check as my shafts are a bit on the long side)! Where did you find them? Are they a one-off or an aftermarket production item? Mine are on hold, nearly done re-drilling the holes, though I broke off a small drill bit in the last hole I had to do, so I've been waiting on an ebay order of a carbide bur to try to tear through the bit that's stuck in there. They should get the car on the road, though I've started working on a new design that'll involve some lathe work to machine in a lip to center it on the OEM companion flange, as well as a lip to center up the CV - but still avoids milling.

Anyone know a part number for these? I ordered a set using the listing for 260z from here: http://www.alliedbearings.com.au/datasheets/nissan/seals-light-commercials But they came in too small (both OD and ID) for both the pinion and 2 output seals. I've measured them and came up with Side seals 55mm x 34-ish (contact area on shaft is 35mm) Front(pinion) seal 75mm x 39-ish (contact area on shaft is 40mm) I suspect the parts I actually need are: 400065N (34X55X11) Part: 34X55R 400087N (40X75X12/17) Part: PR0260 (no idea what the 12/17 means? Or if the ID should be slightly smaller than the shaft to ensure it seals against it?) If anyone could confirm, or supply part numbers, etc it'd be great!

Spot on Peter - I did try to centre up the stock flange within the new adaptor "rings"... but after welding had about 1mm of run-out on one of them (the send about half that). So I've welded up the holes and plan in the coming weeks to turn down the outer as you suggested in a lathe, and re-drill the holes.

Thanks for the advice Peter, very much appreciated. I'd done something similar to what you suggested, planning to construct the adapter out of two pieces to avoid milling. I found the CV cage and shaft protrusion to only be about 8mm at the absolute full extent of articulation (well beyond what it'll get to in the car), so I made the adapter out of a 6mm flange to weld onto the stock companion flange (ie. matched the 6mm companion flange thickness), then the "spacer ring" is made out of 8mm thick mild steel. If that turns out to be too thin and yields CV cage/ball interference issues, I'll get the rings re-cut out of 10mm or thicker. Knocked up a couple of drawings in solidworks and sent the dxf's to a local laser cutting place - who (very nicely) agreed to do it all for a slab! 2hrs after send the file through they were ready for pickup Got them to cut the holes too, however as I plan to tap them to M10x1.25 (which would normally require an 8.8mm hole), I got them cut undersize to 8mm, with a plan to drill them out to 8.8 to remove the hard crust created by the localised rapid heating/cooling due to the laser cutting, so as to avoid destroying my tap. If this doesn't work, I also knocked up a model for a 1-piece part which would obviously require milling to produce. Obviously the 1-piece would be stronger and has the added benefit of including a small lip to help centre the CV joint, but it was gonna be a PITA to organise the milling (and potentially expensive). To aid with strength I extended the OD of these parts out to 115mm (instead of matching them to the 108mm OD of the CVs), and made the centre hole as small as possible (matches the 75mm ID of the CV joint - it's not a plunge joint so the ID is a perfect circle, no slots for the balls to slide in/out of that I'd need to make clearance for). Speaking of which, I scored 2 brand new commodore outer joints for $45 each on ebay au, including new boots, grease, etc. Another reason this conversion is so attractive to me (if it works that is!). Oh to answer your other qn, yes the Nissan pathdfinder inner Cv's are Tripod styles with a massive amount of plunge (which should also cater easily to the two sides of the zed requiring slightly different length shafts). Will keep you posted once I get it all welded together/tapped/assembled. Probably in 2-3 weeks time as I'm waiting on drills, taps, etc from ebay.

Took a look Lampy - very nice work there! Perhaps it was! I wouldn't be surprised if someone had figured this out before - just a shame whoever it was didn't share the knowledge! You would by any chance have a CAD file for that adapter would you?

Amazing effort there Peter - very impressive! I'm in the process of a CV conversion (in addition to adding an S15 Helical to my R200) which will use a commodore outer CV joint - could I trouble you for a 3D CAD file (if you have one) of the adapter you machined up to go between the CV's and the 4-bolt 240z companion flange?? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5033.30.html There seems to be a few porsche 930<-->S30 companion flange adapters on the market, but they all appear very thick and I'll need a very thin one (whilst still allowing for joint cage protrusion, etc) so I was hoping to modify an existing design to be thinner and have it machined up

I assume you're using the Z31 4-bolt outer joint with something like a Modern Motorsports companion flange, or a custom adapter of some sort? A couple of weeks of hard googling and some pick-a-part action has seen me come up with an unexpected combination... The D21 Pathfinder 4-cyl Inner CV (tripod), Pathfinder shaft, and (wait for it...) a VT commodore outer CV joint! Has 27-splines and is the right diameter for the pathfinder shaft's outer spline'd section (noting the inner of the pathfinder shaft is a smaller diameter despite also being 27-spline). No grooves to be cut as the Pathfinder's spring retainer on the end of the shaft works perfectly to hold the commodore CV in place too. I was going to fit a circlip into the groove but the one I had didn't want to fit and the spring clip seems to do a perfect job or retaining the CV... just makes it slightly harder to disassemble later (few hard whacks to get the CV off instead of just removing a circlip). Apparently the commodore joints are effectively Porsche 930 108mm types, and from what info I can find, appear to be the same on V8 and V6 commodores, suggesting it'll be strong enough for most decent zed applications (Mine is likely to have an RB25DET or VQ35 eventually). I'll need to make/machine up an adapter flange to mate the 6-bolt Commodore CV to the zed's rectangular stub axle flange. I noticed PeterAllen made up such a flange in this thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14440.0.html ... Might hassle him for a CAD file or drawing and see how I go ;-) Overall length seem nearly perfect, maybe slightly long on the S30's short side, so i'm gonna try to keep the adapter flange as thin as possible (probably about 10mm thick overall... roughly the minimum required to let the inner race move through it's range without hitting anything (the standard cap fitted to the joint has a 16mm bulge in it, which seems unnecessary)

Nice work on picking up the S15 Helical I finally got round (what is it, 2 months later?) to cleaning up my diff and installing the S15 helical centre. I'm gonna try sticking with the 3x2 output flanges for now given the Pathy D21 4cyl axles mate up to them. So findings so far - I've eliminated the possibility of cutting the shaft off the Pathy outer CV and welding on a flange - total assembly ends up about 3/4"-1" too long (passenger/short side of the S30) See attached pics - one pic is the shaft at full extension out of the tri-pod end, the next is me pushing it in to make it short as possible. That's with camber bushes fitted at full outward setting (ie. track width is wider than stock by about 10mm per side). Any suggestions? Atm I'm thinking I'll try another suggestion you had on hybrid Z... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/78296-double-tripod-cv-axles-bad-idea/ Empi 87-9522. There should be heaps of old camry's etc at my local pick-a-part, so I might have a wander through one day soon with the vernier in hand and see if that Camry inner CV will fit on the 27 spline outer of the Pathy axle. If so I'll grab one and see if it results in an axle that's the right length (once a custom flange is added to bolt it to the 4x1 s30 Stub axle flange of course).

Cheers NZeder, it usually takes me 2 months to get round to doing the things I research after I research them, so the short delay in replying is no issue! This is all making a lot more sense now, cheers Sounds like we can help each other out. I now have my S15 helical (3x2 outputs) and a single stuffed OEM (I think) Nissan Pathfinder D21 4 cyl (3x2) driveshaft. No work done yet, so all I can confirm atm is that the pathfinder 3x2 fits the S15 3x2 flange perfectly - bolts line up, centers perfectly in the groove/counterbored section of the output stubs. You'd be interested to know the inboard CV is a tripod on the OEM shaft. That is, assuming I was actually supplied an OEM shaft (from a nissan wrecker, but who knows if someone swapped it at some point in it's life... looked pretty old/used though). I'm ok with that, though I prefer to use a Rzeppa style on the wheel end.... though realistically a tripod both ends will probably be ok given the small angles the rear will see. Dunno if the shafts will clunk left and right though given the ability to extend in and out of the joint at both sides if I had two Tri-pods. Hmmm. Did you use the 4x1 bolt 300zx Z31 wheel end CV along with something like a modern motorsports companion flange? Or do they bolt straight onto the stock S30 4x1 bolt stub axle flange? My rough plan was to either find a bolt-on (ie. not through-hub) style outer CV with the right spline count/diameter, and make an adaptor flange to bolt it to the S30 stub axle flange... or chop the short splined section off the Pathfinder outer CV and weld the CV onto a custom flange. Making flanges will be easy for me as I can draw it up in CAD and give the file to the local plasma cutting place, providing it doesn't require any milling or turning. Hopefully in the next week or two I'll be able to stuff the S15 helical LSD into my R200 longnose and rebuild my diff, give it a lick of paint, etc. Then shortly after that I'll whack it back in the car and start sorting out the driveshafts... stay tuned and keep me posted on any progress you make!

Well with no extra info to go on I figure bugger it, just try it and see how I go! Got my hands on an S15 Torsen complete diff and am getting a used set of pathfinder axles this weekend for $50 (will replace with new/reco ones once i establish they fit... not wasting $200+ on a trial assembly ;-) ) Will keep everyone posted. Any suggestions on my qn's in the meantime will obviously be much appreciated

Sweet thanks guys, for that much I'd obviously prefer new ones! Sent him an email.

I stuffed up and purchased a new left side when mine was still good (replaced by previous owner it appears). So now I have two good left sides and only a very buggered looking right side! doh! If anyone has a decent one they want to sell, or has made a similar mistake and wants to swap a decent, cleaned, greased and painted up left side for a right side, let me know!!! Cheapest in Melb for a new one was about $60-something from Ash at MAS... which I'll do if I don't get any offers here. Bursons wanted $80-something . I'm in Melbourne, northern suburbs

G'day, Could you advise if supercheap can source an S30 RH tie rod end, and if so, how much? http://catalogue.roadsafe.com.au/catalogue/search_part_number/TE860R cheers! Daniel

I'm about to attempt an S15 Helical/Torsen LSD centre into my longnose... and like the GTR, I can confirm the helical S15's have 13mm bolts. I've bought two of these in the hope I can cut it up to make 13mm OD x 10mm ID sleeves. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/72-x-13mm-10mm-Inner-Dia-50mm2-Copper-Hole-Passing-Connecting-Pipe-GT-G-50-/390866161709?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item5b0170502d The ebay link probably wont work in years to come if someone's reading this for reference, so here's some info off the page in case it helps source them again: "Specification: Product Name Hole-passing connecting tube Model GT-G-50 Cross-Sectional Area 50mm2 Inner Diameter 10mm / 0.39" Outer Diameter 13mm / 0.52" Total Size(Approx) 72 x 13mm / 2.8" x 0.52" (L*D Max) Color Copper Tone Material Copper Weight 34g Package Content 1 x Hole Passing Connecting Tube Description: Features: 50mm2 cross-sectional area, 10mm inner diameter, copper material. GT-G series are applicable to connect the circular wire and hemicycle wire in distribution equipment or power supply cables." I've also noted that there's 12mm x 10mm sleeves in various lengths (advertised as self lubricating sleeve bearings) on ebay, pretty sure I just searched for "sleeve 12 10" or similar on ebay au.

Hi guys, just listed some stuff left over from my parts car: L26 Engine http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/L26-Engine-Datsun-Nissan-260z-240z-280z-motor-/131328951403? Extractors: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Datsun-260Z-240z-280z-6cyl-Petrol-Extractors-Header-/131328918816?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e93d04520 3 speed auto http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jatco-3N71B-Automatic-Transmission-Datsun-Nissan-260z-240z-280z-and-many-others-/131328979574?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e93d13276

Sorry to re-hash such an old thread! NZeder, I have a few qns if that's cool: 1. When you say you fitted R32, etc viscous centres into long nose R200s, asides from the 10-12mm spacer/sleeves, did the S30 output flanges fit in, and engage the Viscous centre properly? I heard viscous diffs usually need a longer shaft on one side to engage with the viscous bit else you just end up with a single spinner.... 2. I was reading your comments on hybrid Z re. fitting an S15 Helical to a longnose R200, and using Pathfinder Driveshafts ( http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/73184-using-the-s15s-hlsd-in-a-long-nose-r200/ ). I'm super eager to try fitting an S15 helical centre into my R200 longnose. - How did you go with this? - The Empi part number (80-4703) you noted for the driveshaft assy comes up as 5-bolt (not 3x2) versions - was this a typo? If so, would this the be one I need for the 3x2 S15 output flanges? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140662464905 (Pathfinder D21, 4 cyl, 4WD LH & RH, 9/92-10/95 for anyone reading this long after the ebay ad is taken down ) - You also mention using "Replacement wheel end CV of 6 cylinder Pathy axle part number 87-9096"... am I right in saying this can be substituted for a Z31 300zx outer... and (this might be a stretch)... it'll bolt onto the S30 stub axle companion flange? (else, I was considering chopping up the outer joint from the Pathfinder driveshaft, welding on a custom 4-bolt flange, and bolting that to the s30 companion flange?) - The BIG qn (and final, I promise!!!)... will this work out to be the right length with no risk of binding with suspension compression, or falling out on extension? I spose I could just use S15 inner CVs, custom shafts, and some suitable (??) outer CV'sx that will bolt to the S30 companion flange... but the cheapest I've seen custom shafts was $600 pair. If I manage to make all this work I'll do a write up to help out the s30 community

Sorry about the bump but... BUMP! ;-) Engine, trans, extractors still available - make an offer... any offer!!! Just wanna get rid of this stuff now to gain some room back in my small work area... Surely someone has a use for a complete L26 block/head, or a set of extractors to free up a few more kW... or needs a spare trans to use as the basis of a rebuild or fancy boat anchor :-P Don't worry about the previously suggested prices... providing it's not stupid and you don't make me work too hard (ie. no interstate shipping on an engine for example), then it wont be refused. Would hate for this stuff to go to the tip when no doubt someday someone on here will need it...

Hi phillay - I think the arms are the same (someone else may want to help confirm?), the struts however are 55mm on diameter rather than 51mm as you'll have on the 240z, and the rear struts tops (the rubber block with the three mounting bolts sticking out) may be about 3/4" thicker (which will raise your car) though I'd have to pull them out of the car to know which ones it has before I can confirm. I'll need the front control arms but am happy to sell the rears. The rears will be taken out this weekend coming either way. Hey Tai - I'd be more than happy to give it to you - unfortunately I sold the inner (and the glovebox door) a few weeks back. Never thought it'd be a sought after item but it's always interesting to see what people are after and what they're not on S30s! Anything else you need let me know - was supposed to take the last of the bits I needed off this past weekend and get it taken to scrap this week, but time got the better of me and I'll be hanging round for another week or so.