Dan260Z

Digging up an old thread to add some info, and ask a question... First the info re legality - I asked my VASS engineer if I could add coilovers and section the struts. He said yes - BUT I would need any welds on suspension components to be Xrayed by a nata certified lab. So I canned that idea in favour or Eibach lowered springs from motorsportauto/the zed store. If I need to add more travel later I'm considering cutting off the threaded part of the strut tube and having a new thread cut, to avoid welding. Anyone considered or actually done this? Now my question... Could someone please help me out with the part numbers for the KYB AGX Z31 shocks? and/or tell me if the diameter is right to fit a 74 260z 2+2 (or just tell me the outside diameter of the shocks and I'll measure my struts)?

You sir, are a legend! Thankyou! Exactly what I was after. Interested though - it looks like your beast has a B-pillar from the pic?

I'm fitting inertia reels to my '74 260z 2+2 (which previously only had static belts, and does not have the threaded mounting hole in the roof frame to bolt the drop link to). Could someone with a later 260z 2+2 please measure the position of the threaded hole? (ie. how far back from the A pillar?). And if anyone is able to share a picture of the mounting point too it'd be even better

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Datsun-L26-2-6l-engine-rebuilt-by-previous-owner-240z-260z-etc-/130979457895?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7efbeb67#ht_597wt_1313 Complete L26 with Round top SU's and all ancillaries... Starting at $290 - willing to seperate! (I'm the seller so PM me about it) Daniel

I'm interested in a pair of the spacers for the stage 4 front brake kit - however I'd need to know the thickness of the 2 spacers types (for both the 240z and 280z hubs) so i can do some measurements/maths and work out which ones i need - I wont be running the toyota calipers due to the large piston diameter yeilding too much front bias (compared to my intended rear setup), rather I'll be running some volvo 4-pots on a custom bracket which will likely result in a different caliper offset to the toyota based set up. Also interested to know which calipers and rotors the rear brackets are intended for - would be sweet if they work with the common S13/14/15 rear caliper and Z31 300zx rear rotor combination! Myself and a mate recently lost over $600 (total) after the order was lost by Australia Post and the great bloke at Modern Motorsports couldn't be bothered chasing the postal insurance claim or responding to our emails

OK finally an update with some pics attached and more details: Engine Number: L26 158891 Head: E88 Block casting: P30 6514E (I think, see pic!)

Cool thanks, I'll try to get those details along with pics over the weekend. Location is Northern suburbs, Melbourne. Hmmm if it's gonna be worth more broken up then I might consider it... once I post up more details I'm happy to take offers on individual bits...

... As I have one I'm considering selling - According to the previous owner of the car, it'd been rebuilt and "modified to run on unleaded". (I assume valve seats) - Round top SU's - All ancillaries (eg. water/oil pumps, belts, fan, plugs, dizzy, leads, carbs, ex/in manifolds, alternator) included! Currently has a 3 speed auto bolted up which for some odd reason is from a skyline according to the yellow paint marker someone's used to write on it. Not sure why the previous owner stuck a skyline auto in it but it seemed to work fine. Happy to separate the trans if the engine buyer doesn't need it or someone else wants it (I'll do some research into exactly what it's from if I'm asked about it). I drove it for a couple of days after buying the car and the engine seemed good, made a good turn of power once warmed up (I suspect the carbs needed a tune though as it was a bit rough and would cut out, etc when cold). The car was then sidelined awaiting a ground up rebuild with an RB25DET, with the L26 started and warmed up every couple of months until it was removed from the car about 2 years ago. Since then it's been sitting under cover. I'll get some pics attached and more details (engine number, etc) over the next few days and post them up. In the meantime I'm interested in knowing what they're worth. If it's not much I'll consider keeping it in case I wish to revert my zed back to stock one day.

Cheers guys. I enjoy a good corner and have spent some time on the skid pan at deca, hope to do some track time in the future, etc and I've typically found most cars i've driven are a tad too rolly-polly for my liking. But I didn't want to go too far and have detrimental effects on my zed's grip on typical aussie roads by making it too stiff. I've got an opportunity to buy a 22mm front at a good price so it sounds like that might be the G-O. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to be too small given how popular 24mm seems to be. But it's starting to sound like a good compromise. FWIW I have 16's with 245/45 Rear and 225/50 Front (fairly sticky eagle F1's). Nearly went with coilovers, except the engineer wanted the welds on the sectioned struts Xrayed if i'd gone that way, so it all worked out to be too much hassle (read: cost) for the sake of having ride height adjustment. Hopefully the king lows aren't too stiff - they were fine in my old N13 Pulsar as a daily driver but who knows what sort of rate they'll be in the zed application.

Just after some opinions on front and rear sway bar diameters for a mainly street driven 260z 2+2 with an RB. It appears common to fit 24mm front and 22mm rear bars, however this appears to be a huge step up from stock? According the the "stiffness factor" calculation in here http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112694 going from the stock front bar of 18mm (?) to the 24mm would result in: 18mm: 104976 24mm: 331776 ie. more than 3x stiffer than the stock bar. Is this a good idea? I have no idea how "bad" the stock set up is - After purchasing my zed I drove it for 2 days back in 2007 before taking the plates off. Hence I can't remember how much body roll it had. It'll be matched up with King "low" springs which I'll try to find a spring rate for soon. So basically I was hoping for a cross-section of fellow zed-ers to tell me how their car feels with whichever combination of bars they have...

Cheers mate, that confirms it!

Also, in the vid, it appears the plastic had to be cut to clear the chassis rail under the door.. have your seats been cut like this too?

Very interested... Hope I'm in early enough to get dibs! Do they have a mechanism for flipping them forward to allow rear seat passengers to get out? I have a 2+2 and I'm sure my engineer will want to see that... not sure if the RX8 would need it due to the rear doors... Where abouts are you in Melbourne?

If Gareth isn't interested I certainly am! First dibs to him of course.

Spotted these the other night... what are the rotors off?

Forgot to mention these are to suit 260z according to the King Springs catalogue, I assume including 2+2 models (they came new and unfitted in my 260z 2+2 when I bought the car)

Thanks for the advice... make sense since my current box seems to have a spot for the clutch. I've got a lead now to buy what I'm after, but I'll keep you in mind if it falls through!

I've got a set of 4 new King stock height springs for sale. Part Numbers KDFS-04 KDRS-05 Were listed on ebay but didn't sell. if you're interested make an offer Note sure if the add will still appear but if it does, here's some pics. Brand spankers as you can see. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130900127076?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_591wt_1405 Also willing to swap for lows...

Unlikely as it is someone will have one for sale - can't hurt to try! Mine is currently an auto... not sure if the pedal box I have already has a spot for the clutch pedal (appears to have been a manual in past life so it may already be a manual pedal box with the clutch removed and the auto brake pedal fitted). I'll post pics on the weekend in case someone is able to tell me what I have!

I've got a set of 16x8" +0mm offset... they'll *just" clear with 225's or skinnier fitted IF you roll the guards a tad (determined by removing the springs and moving the front and rear suspension fully up and down at different steering angles). I'm fitting flares and cutting some metal out for them though as the rears will have 245's and possibly some thin (10mm ish) spacers combined with longer studs for making it look better (more flush) at shows, etc.

Thanks guys - yep you're right indeed they do have them cast on them in raised lettering. unfortunately, technically that means by fitting +0mm offset wheels I'll increase track by 30mm (max allowable on IRS is 25mm)... but for some odd reason with the 0mm wheels fitted, measuring from the centre of the tread it still falls within 25mm of the factory stated track width of 53". Why i don't know - but it's a good thing!

Sorry if I missed this int he previous posts, but do you have a manual pedal box?

Cool. I spose worst case I'll engineer and register mine with the original stock springs then fit the lows. Cool no hurry - PM me whenever you get them out and we go from there. Let me know also what you'd want for them and where you are too please.

Bugger - if only I'd got off my butt and try to sell them earlier! Had them since 2007 when I bought the car. Definitely no hurry - years left on the build. Which type/brand of lows were they if you don't mind me asking? I didn't think king lows would drop it that far...

I've got a set of 4 new King stock height springs for sale. Part Numbers KDFS-04 KDRS-05 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130900127076?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_591wt_1405 Also willing to swap for lows as the ad states...