Riceburner

I've run the 6AL-2 for quite a few years now. It's a great bit of kit, very simple to wire in and has had faultless operation on the track and street. I went with the non programmable model (red color), multiple spark below 3k, rev limiter, launch control and the capacitive discharge combined with MSD blaster hvc2 coil makes for a powerful spark. I also got the electronic distributor rebuilt by scorcher in Melbourne as per the Datsun hot rod book. The curve was reworked to include 10-11 degrees advance in the dizzy starting at 1,200rpm and all in by 2,400rpm. This is used with a static setting of 15degrees. EDIT# You'll also need helically wound plug wires. Standard wires will give off electric interference in the engine bay.

Wow. The time, effort and money that must go into this is amazing. I'd love to see it completed! Price will be the make or break. Surely RB or V8 power is cheaper/better and Isn't the Giken head 30K (unattainable to every Datsun enthusiast) ? So this at a guess could be (10K), who would pay that for a twin cam head to suit an L-series bottom end that is not eligible for classic racing and is limited by the ancient L28 short block.

I have two open diff centres to be used in a 1600 with 4.11 gears, which is the better of the two? Both are 'K' style centres to suit 115mm crown wheel and the LHS centre is from a Nissan Gazelle.

Thanks so much for your help Jason!

Is it worth pulling apart the rest of the motor for inspection?

I may still have the 260Z 2+2 tail shaft up near Trentham Mark. I can find out in the next day or so

Well said George. I too am hoping Adam has a change of heart. After all that hard work comes the best part, driving it

Oh and if the steering wheel is the woodgrain type I'll take that too

I'd like to take the 4.3 diff Richard. I'll PM you and see if we can work something out.

+1 jamo. Not really required. Kameari & Ghetto don't go together... Perhaps, DIY L series A Ghetto L series will be under 5K everyday of the week! If the description fits, we are talking about a dead stock L series that IMHO is rebuilt using new parts only when needed. In this scenario you will require bearings, timing chain kit, a full gasket kit, head bolts/main bolts (although I have re-used sets on multiple occasions), tstat, water pump, pistons, rings and machine work. Ancillaries are excluded, clutch, alt, damper, starter, headers, carbs and ignition. My bottom end was under this value by a way, I did score a few cheapies though and had a few bits already. I have what I consider a semi Ghetto build, the PMC P90 head and aftermarket support makes up for that. We rebuilt my brothers L4 for $500 dollars, Now that is Ghetto! Admittedly we were lucky in getting a cheap good small block to rebuild. It lasted 18mths before the fire disaster at his property with no issues at all as an every day driver in extreme climates. His previous unknown standard engine lasted 20yrs with plenty of TLC. Datsun Tuff Over 5K? Yes, If your getting the engine built for you. It will be more costly when professionally assembled, but that is the price of quality and expertise. I digress a little but, I have been very fortunate to have the help of PMC on my P90 head/engine/car, he has been an invaluable source of knowledge, advice and hands on tuning in the years after my build.

Lol

Simon put some Jack Daniels stickers on, you'll beat the Altimas. Apparently Lurch is opening the 240's hatch and Caruso will stand inside for the parade lap

Me three

I'd like to come along too. I can't be 100% certain until closer to the day.

It's a common mistake, you'll only do it once and from now on you'll always crack the filler plug before draining the oil. Same goes for the diff too. Try the tightening method. A heat gun might work but I doubt a hair dryer will get it hot enough.

Congrats Paul, it is a really nice write up. Look amazing!

Take for a 20 min drive. Try again as soon as you get back. You can also try tightening it a tiny bit more, then when it moves start undoing it.

Welcome. Great story, really look forward to the progress.

Looks like the full edit of an old 'best motoring' video that used to do the rounds. Was on you tube but was pulled down for copy right breaches, I believe they no longer exist. How stiff are the springs, shocks and bars on this. There's no dive under braking, no body roll, looks a tiny bit tail happy under heavy braking but that could just be the master at work. I'd love to see detailed specs on this. I believe it now runs a G-nose with type B spoiler on the front. Cool Video

Very interesting, If your engine doesn't need one I can't think of many that would! I'll be nowhere near that power, I can't see myself revving it past 7500ish. Which block should I use? I have F54, N42 and an L20a six cylinder.

Yeah when you think about it that way it makes sense to stick with the proven product. Thanks chaps

So this style would be better as it ties into caps and all around the block? And it's steel I only have about 5mm clearance to the steering rack so this type will make it very very tight.

I will be requiring a girdle for my stroker engine. I have come across one that is a little different but I'm unsure if it will do the job or not. It's billet aluminium, it only attaches directly to the main caps 2,3,4,5,6 and sits inside the block. Would it be ok, strong, weak, useless? With the huuuuuuuge extended sump I have, clearance to the steering rack is tiny. I'm concerned the sump will hit the rack with the regular girdle fitted.

Will it clear the LD crank? There's also another one I'm looking at, I'll start another thread.

Bump. Price dropped. Now $850