Riceburner

Definitely agree Mike, I'm not brave enough to get it machined that much I'm guessing the 3.5L crank is beyond my budget Jake. I could be wrong but I thought the Kameari ones went for 6k? They also mention Nitriding in that Hybridz thread. Do any of you guys recommend or do this to your cranks?

Lancia Delta Intergrale? Not sure if the name is correct, the group B martini wrc cars. EDIT: Delta S4 is what I should've said, but it nothing like that either.

Sorry Jason, it was John C on a hybridz thread. 15.8kg is what he got it down to. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112410-knife-edge-crank/ Sounds like that is a very extreme weight reduction. What would a more normal amount be, 3-5kg?

Very good idea, I did see a box similar to your description somewhere on the net. Thanks, Gav. What about taping the journals with electrical tape?

Thanks David.

Thanks Agno. Did they have a brand name on the rubbers besides the rare spares ones?

I thought T3 gave you washers with the arms to allow small caster adjustments? David (zcar73) from here makes some beautiful chromoly arms.

What have you had done to your crankshaft during rebuild aside from balancing and oil plugs getting drilled and tapped? Pros and cons of lightening and knife edging? How light should you go? I saw Jason mention 15kgs before IIRC.

How do you guys store your crankshafts long term? I won't be using it for quite a while and I want it to stay clean and not rust. I was thinking of spraying it with fish oil and then covering it heavily with cling wrap? Also, is this wear mark from the rear main seal an issue? I think my current L28 was the same when I rebuilt it.

No pressure reg at the moment, the FCR's can handle up to 3psi before the floats get overpowered. It's just an idea I had for down the track if I need more flow. When I do decide to run twin pumps I'll get a regulator too. Thanks Jason.

This may be a stupid question. I have a stock fuel tank modified for targa use with twin pickups. Question is, if I run two Pierburg pumps (flow @2.4psi each) off each pickup then join them into a 'Y' piece and onto the stock supply rails will this alter the supply pressure or will I get double the flow rate at the same pressure at the carbs? Cheers, Gareth.

Edit: Sorry I meant to say sand after each coat of varnish only. But it's working great so far, stick to that formula I say

Looks great Gav. IIRC cabinet makers sand after each coat of clear varnish, sanding between every coat of stain or varnish can't do any harm I wouldn't think.

So basically this 'fudge factor' is operator controlled, meaning they can put in whatever they want and then this alters the final power/torque figures? While being a great tuning tool for AFR's and fuel consumption, those final power numbers are useless? Are the correction numbers/figures shown on the print out graphs?

I'd ask for much more detail on the list and then if you're no clearer get a second opinion. If the brake booster, brake master and all brake lines are faulty how can you tell which item/items need replacing? Same goes with the bushes, which ones? I couldn't tell my factory moustache bar bushes were gone until the bar was removed from the car. Even then they weren't completely stuffed, same with the control arm suspension bushes. The Engine, Gearbox and front diff mounts I'd expect to be replaced. Struts or shocks? Pedders do some cheap ones but they're garbage. KYB GR2 should be good, you'll be able to do these yourself with minimal tools and help. Spring compressors will be required and the Haynes manual. The strut housings should be fine. Steering rack, I'd expect bushes only. Unless he's meaning tie rods, ball joints? Again, more detail. Diff, is it the seals or just the breather? Give it a good steam/pressure clean and it should be passable for the inspection. Exhaust, get a new mild steel system done at a recommended exhaust shop. $300 from the headers back? Electrics, get a new ignition barrel from ebay, plug and play. $9K for 9 items, seems very expensive but the devil is in the detail. When he says parts or seals need to be replaced which ones and how many. Is it one or all of them?

Semi related, what do people think of Scotts old auto rubber? Looking at getting bits from them for a Datsun 1600, panels and rubber to be precise.

+1 with Tai, looks exactly the same as my 77 260Z 2+2 booster which is bigger than the 240 items. Do you have anyway to check the booster and is the check valve ok?

Ouch Get the list and have a go yourself. Start with the easy things and build your confidence up, then jump in the deep end and have a go at the struts, diff seals etc. You might surprise yourself and there's always plenty of help/advice here. If those things end up being too difficult you can always trailer it back down to the mechanic, you'll save a heap either way. Be interesting to see the list. EDIT: I assume by 'new struts' he means new shock absorbers?

I've got one of those, it's a fantastic piece of kit with endless amounts of detail.

Really interesting explanation of the filter and how it works. He's mad for them, maybe it's the sceptic in me but I can't help but think that there's some sort of affiliation. They are being compared to stock paper filters though.

I have one of those crank scrapers on my engine Why do they get such 'different' HP readings compared to ours?

Is 391hp achievable from a stroked L28? http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/album/1377-fgt-240z/

That's a funny little read, very interesting too!

What does he say regarding K&N filters?

VHT do an epoxy paint that is hard as hell, it's actually designed for use on suspension components. I used it on my wheels and it has held up very well.