Riceburner

That color is great, it really makes the stainless pop! Make sure to test the contact cleaner on an spare bit of plastic. It does react with some plastics, eating them or turning it white and very brittle.

I'd love to see/buy one showing all the different race/rally cars

Buy or borrow a complete twin SU setup. Make sure the crank case and rocker cover breathers are connected to the manifold and air box. Sweet ride BTW, It's a beauty!

Thanks Daniel will do.

Thanks Jason. We have some 50mm trumpets, phenolic spacers, a long runner intake and we're going to copy the roadster style air box but will have two oval K&N filters sandwiched together allowing enough room and flow for the trumpets. Will throw the wide band on and see how it goes. It's his daily driver and has been that way for 20yrs, so just looking for something nice to drive. Cheers

I run those solid bushes in the the front of my car, I was told 1 degree negative. The brown sleeves are 'delrin'. It feels similar to hard plastic. The come with serrated lock washers to hold them in position once set, so far mine haven't moved in 3-4yrs. If you alter them at the track you'll have to do an alignment as well as your changing the length of the control arm.

Hey guys just after some advice of jetting sizes. Recently my brother scored some 40mm Mikuni off a Toyota 2T-Gs engine. On initial inspection the look in good cond with centre pull linkages still attached, plan is to use these with his existing throttle cable. The Datto has a freshly rebuilt fairly standard L20b engine, 1mm over bore, SSS cam, points dizzy with working vac advance, comp ratio is about 10:1. The phh40 carbs have the following: They are type S4, they are not the anti pollution type YAY! Current jetting is 52.5 pilots, 200 main air, 135 main jet, #8 jet block. These look to be stock 18R-Gs jetting combo except the Toyota pilot jet is 63.8 Sound like a good starting point? BTW the car is driven out of melb 800m above sea level. Cheers

What size does that oil feed hole on top of the block need to be drilled out to? I never did that I've read about people cross drilling the mains on the crank for better oil supply, is this common?

Is that copper on the #6 journal or just rust? Definitely get it hot tanked at the machine shop and get all the factory plugs in the block and crank drilled/tapped while it's there along with any balancing. You can do a final clean prior to assembly at home, they clean them at the shop but I got a fair bit more out doing it in the garage. Have you worked out what you're doing with piston size yet?

Sounds awesome and that gearbox looks like so much fun

Thanks Jake. If I go with them I'll post up some info.

How did the guys that raced go?

http://www.rubber-soul.net/p-orijinaru.htm Plates are about halfway down the page. Send Jesse Streeter the link, tell him which plate you want and the numbers you need stamped on it. 2-3 weeks later you'll have what you need.

You should be able to assemble it by yourself using those books, I did with my L28 with tips from PMC. Just make sure you get everything balanced together, go with a genuine Nissan head gasket and use ARP head studs.

Interesting, they're a little more than I was hoping to spend but that always the case It's a Datsun after all! Do you know any more detail on them Jake? Like height compared to stock isolators and is it just those two cap screws that lock them in position?

I'm happy to help out too David, I have those sized wheels but with semi slicks if that's a problem.

Stuart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney do fully rebuilt steering racks, that's where I got mine from. I'm not sure if you need a core for them to rebuild though and they're not cheap. Could be worth asking the question though.

Here's the number for a 240z,260z mount. No idea if it's suitable for a 280zx though? Maybe try Ash at Moorabbin auto spares

Yeah I know what you mean. The tyre clearance to the guards is worse with more camber so even though i only have 225 tyres at -2 degrees I've had to shave 10mm off the lower section of the G-nose to stop the tyres rubbing. Even with adjustable tc rods I don't think I'll get much more. That's where the offset tops come in handy. The prices of new standard isolators Vs. offset SWM type seem very similar. Edit! Here's a link to those roll centre adjusters Mick http://www.ti-baby.com/index.html ZCCJDM in the USA can get them too.

I use KYB's from a Z31 300zx, IIRC they're about 30mm shorter than stock shocks so youd need a spacer on top. Total length is approx 340m, I have the AGX 4 way adjustable type, similar to the Koni yellows. I guess they are probably available in the base model GR2 gas which should be ok and cheaper. The 240z inserts have a 'D' shaped thread on top, the Z31 type have a 14mm round top so you'd need to drill the top insulator too.

Im not sure exactly what 1deg is equal to in mm. I had it setup at stock settings, plus whatever extra the top hats gave. I have adjustable tc rods but haven't dialed them in properly yet. The spacers I got from Japan. They're also available from 'T.I.Baby' I can send you a link tonight. I thought they were good because you don't end up running the tie rods close to the limit of their extension.

Looks great David, you've certainly packaged it well. The welds look pretty damn good too!

Great job Vorn, you certainly did an excellent job on the body work

I also have offset roll centre spacers that give -2degrees of camber. They sit on top of the steering arm and under the strut, they're great cause there's no need to alter the tie rod lengths. I use the offset tops to give more caster with actually pushing the wheel further foward.