Riceburner

Looks Beautiful Hodgo The wheels looks huge/great, What tyres do you use?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/02/nostalgia-rules-at-japans-best-vintage-show/#chapter-the-japanese-restomod They're saying 420ps @ 9,000rpm, but no dyno graphs.

Got the adjustable rear control arms in today. Was very easy, had them apart during the refresh and also still had the spindle puller tool which was handy once again. The new arms went straight in, check the track width/toe in three times in total and finished at 1mm toe in. If anyone wants some great arms get onto David quick as I'm not sure how many he will produce! A few pics too

And so it begins! The old girl looks pretty solid underneath.

My car was originally an auto. With the console out just measure back from the shifter 'ears' on the gearbox and stop when you are in the centre of the trans tunnel opening. You'll end up with something like the pic below. It's easily done with an oxy torch, or cut and weld. You can use the stock Nissan rubber inner boot and the pleather outer boot I liked it so much I used the same stick on my RB box, but I had to weld the RB ball onto the bottom of the Z stick. EDIT: The trans tunnel was shaved a tiny bit when fitting the RB20det box.

And another!

You think it sounds good as he goes through the gears, then as he stomps it all hell breaks loose! I wonder what sort of power figure they will get.

New OS Giken twin cam dyno testing! http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2014/02/25/os-giken-twin-cam-video/#more-31194

Hi David, Here they are in all their glory It's only the 'camera+' app on an iphone 4s, seems to do ok for all I need.

I'll put some pics up here too David Very happy! Thanks again

Oh no, not Boris as well. Good Luck with the sale Alan.

Thanks Peter. Also is there a way to determine what height the shims need to be on the modified steering arms pictured above?

Thanks Jake, thought I had seen it somewhere before. You'll be very happy with them when they arrive, Dave's done an excellent job.

I try it with the spacer in. Without the spacer there won't be any load on the inner race of the bearing. Everything will be trying to turn the outer race of the bearing which when torqued to spec is getting pushed hard on the shoulder inside the hubs. When I did mine I also had an issue with the inner seal not going in all the way. The inner companion flange was then touching it and stopping the stub axle from turning.

Got these beauties in the mail today, Thanks David Does anybody have a recommended toe setting for the rear, I'd prefer to set & forget so a track day setting is preferred? WOW These are beautifully made and finished, I can't wait to get them on the car. Anyone in the market for some adjustable control arms should grab these while they can!

Re-reading again, I see Helix says the inner pivot alters the bump steer curve. The spacers alter where in the curve the suspension travels. So, doing both the spacer and inner pivot you will move the bump steer curve further than the original setup which was not ideal to begin with? But also perhaps a tie rod similar to the type pictured above to match the new angles. There's also the question of control arm length, as I understand it if you go higher on the crossmember this will increase the distance from the inner pivot to the bottom of the strut. This would require a longer control arm to keep the same camber you had prior to the mod :-\

+1 It's engineered already

Chas has been excellent to deal with, shipping was fast and very well packaged. An excellent product from a fellow Z enthusiast!

I've also contacted the seller on classiczcars to see if he'll post some info here.

Thread revival!!! After seeing this linked in Vorns thread I went through it again twice, it becomes confusing with no conclusion. My questions are: 1) Can you run roll centre spacers and raise the inner control arm pivot point? They do exactly the same thing don't they 2) If you raise the inner pivot point will you need longer arms to retain the same camber setting? 3) Are adjustable steering arms part of the solution to try and get them on the same arc as the control arm? 4) If yes to question three, are these suitable? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd1827536/Z.C.C.___IMSA__RACE_ADJ._OUTER_TIE_RODS_

It'll be perfect, the car will accelerate a lot faster as a sports car should. 3.3 is very low

Sounds like "Rochelle, Rochelle" from Sienfeld

What about one of those hideous council wheel clamps? Or even a motorbike style brake disc lock, might be able to find one big enough that will go through the cross drilled disc holes if you have them.

Here's an interesting little blog that came up on hybridz http://spark88.blog.fc2.com/blog-category-50.html

Good to see you back around here again mate. Best wishes for the future and it's also nice to see you keep the 240.