Riceburner

Run a shorter shock, it will limit the amount of travel at full droop and keep the shorter spring captive the whole time.

I'm quite happy at the current camber setting, I actually decreased it to -2deg it was quicker with better tyre wear

Yeah mate I did try the die but it didn't really do much and the threads aren't nearly as deep as the other studs. I wonder if it has stretched a little too, either that or the strut bar has been chewing them out. I've never really bothered to look at these too much so I wasn't sure if the were serviceable or not. SWM list them at $115 per side which seems pretty good. Thanks Gents

Hehe, did you try swearing at it? Usually works for me What about a slide hammer?

I did think about going smaller and re-threading but I was concerned about strength. The two problem studs are on the same top. How did he re-bond them? Is it only the rubber that holds the two parts together? These one are urethane, I don't know if that matters at all

I was trying to be a tight wad and hopefully fix them myself I figured they're like a wheel stud with a spline and need to be removed from the back. Are they just a stud similar to a manifold stud That would make it easy

Cheers Gents

I liked it after seeing it on Warrens Z, then the look of Alan's S20 valve cover made me try it. It suits my simple colour theme quite well. I followed his method, the carb tops were raw aluminium so a wipe with prepsol and three coats then the heat gun. The valve cover I had previously painted flat black, wipe with prepsol and 3+ coats of VHT. It was harder to do the valve cover due to the different angles, It's meant to be heavy coats but you have to be careful not to create runs. For the letters, I scraped the majority off with a razor blade and then dry sanded with 240 wet/dry. The VHT brand I used recommended 5mins between each coat with 3 coats total. Air dry but wait up to 24hrs before use or oven at 90 degrees C for an hour. I used the heat gun at 110. It probably differs depending on brand used.

I have SWM offset strut tops and I have managed to strip the threads on one stud and a second stud is close to going also. Unfortunately they are off set so it's not just a case of buying a new cheap one. Is there any way to replace the studs in these?

A bit of VHT wrinkle paint onto the valve cover and the carb tops.

Plenty of attitude there! What size rear bar did you end up going for?

Plenty of video please Peter and Richard

Good price, If anyone gets it I'll buy the valve cover

The whole thing looks like it's wrapped in contact. The excess contact on door locks and scuttle panel slots haven't even been cut off How do you lock it!

I'm no expert but it looks the same as my old 260z box only better, Supposedly fully rebuilt but looked like it was found at the bottom of the ocean. Dat2kman or PMC are experts on this. To be certain you could swap the front mainshaft & countershaft bearings from the 260 gearset to the RB gearset, enlarge the shift rod holes and see if it slides together (the anti rattle shim will bind on the L series bell housing inner face, kinda looks like a power saw blade) or leave the shim off. If it does get the bearing holes enlarged and the inner face plunge cut to suit RB sizings. Stuart Wilkins motorsport has all the bearings, syncros, seals in stock. I did an RB20det close ratio rebuild a not too long ago, it's so much better than the original boxes!

They look awesome in your pics, it was hard to tell how good they'd be from the add photos. Is the 'pin' height adjustable as well?

Some very cool old Datsun, Nissan, prince cars http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/03/garage-envy-you-wont-believe-whats-inside/#chapter-car-celebrities

I'm sure a smooth individual such as yourself could talk the wifey around Just make sure the dog house has good bedding!

Sounds good the more the merrier Everyone can keep registering their interest here. I suggested this a few posts back, but I'm open to any suggestions

My old L28 was a P90/F54 comp ratio was 8.3:1. Still went ok

Can you reduce it?

I'll keep a lookout for it Steve. There's far too much of this going on at the moment!

I have bought a few items from him over the journey. He should advertise here, perhaps we'd get a discount and I'm sure he'd get plenty of business.

Sorry wasn't directed at you Dimitri. I was commenting on this.

Top job Adam, I remember seeing this at classic Japan and it looked fantastic! Who did you get the CH plates through? Cheers, Gareth.